Help me mod my car for trackdays (road courses)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Not to be a douche and romp on your plans, but if you have little track experience with cars you need to start small.
Start by upgrading the pads, lines and fluids and add brake cooling. Maybe some of the basic power stuff like exhaust, intake, tune etc. But don't aim for big power to start with.
If you can drive, a bone stock EVO will have no problem hanging with the cars you listed - so don't get too wrapped up with power and such. What power can do is get you into trouble while you're learning to drive.
Just start with the car nearly stock except for brakes and get a few track days experience. After a few days out you'll have no problem figuring out what you need to upgrade/improve on.
Start by upgrading the pads, lines and fluids and add brake cooling. Maybe some of the basic power stuff like exhaust, intake, tune etc. But don't aim for big power to start with.
If you can drive, a bone stock EVO will have no problem hanging with the cars you listed - so don't get too wrapped up with power and such. What power can do is get you into trouble while you're learning to drive.
Just start with the car nearly stock except for brakes and get a few track days experience. After a few days out you'll have no problem figuring out what you need to upgrade/improve on.
Last edited by jid2; Dec 23, 2008 at 07:59 PM.
well another suggestion would be to invest in a good set of coilovers. Why worry about being fast in the straights, when you can be even faster in the corners with a good set of coilovers...
Im still on my stock IX turbo, but upgraded to a ETS 3" front mount IC w/ their LICP, a Megan 3" TBE w/ their resonated TP, cam'd out with Cossie 272's, and only tuned to 330whp at 21psi power wise. As for brakes, I upgraded to stainless brakes lines, Performance Friction Z-rated street/track pads and run Motul RBF600 brake fluid. With just that I usually place top 5 in open track HDPE's in my "daily driven" Evo that I still put both of my kids in (child seats include
). Thats running against every car manufactured...
The greatest thing about my car though is the suspension! I know you said that coilovers were out of the question but I went the route with Swift springs and all but I can honestly say the body roll in the car was like riding in a boat at sea, even with a 26mm swaybar. And I would NEVER track my car on a high speed course because of the instability at high speeds in turns due to the roll!
So already dealing with Robi from RobiSpec with past alignments and from a swaybar purchase a while back, I went ahead and spent the money on some RobiSpec KW clubsports along with all the Whiteline bushings throughout. Thats were the money was well spent, Im not saying to go run to Robi and buy his ubber baller KW rally tarmac coilovers but coilovers will greatly help you not only be more competitive but it'll be way much more driver gratification...
and it being a DD the ride is really no different than when I had the Swifts installed...
hopefully with all my rambling I just posted it'll give you more of a path to follow or just make you more confused...
Im still on my stock IX turbo, but upgraded to a ETS 3" front mount IC w/ their LICP, a Megan 3" TBE w/ their resonated TP, cam'd out with Cossie 272's, and only tuned to 330whp at 21psi power wise. As for brakes, I upgraded to stainless brakes lines, Performance Friction Z-rated street/track pads and run Motul RBF600 brake fluid. With just that I usually place top 5 in open track HDPE's in my "daily driven" Evo that I still put both of my kids in (child seats include
). Thats running against every car manufactured... The greatest thing about my car though is the suspension! I know you said that coilovers were out of the question but I went the route with Swift springs and all but I can honestly say the body roll in the car was like riding in a boat at sea, even with a 26mm swaybar. And I would NEVER track my car on a high speed course because of the instability at high speeds in turns due to the roll!
So already dealing with Robi from RobiSpec with past alignments and from a swaybar purchase a while back, I went ahead and spent the money on some RobiSpec KW clubsports along with all the Whiteline bushings throughout. Thats were the money was well spent, Im not saying to go run to Robi and buy his ubber baller KW rally tarmac coilovers but coilovers will greatly help you not only be more competitive but it'll be way much more driver gratification...
and it being a DD the ride is really no different than when I had the Swifts installed...
hopefully with all my rambling I just posted it'll give you more of a path to follow or just make you more confused...
Last edited by o-townFLA; Dec 23, 2008 at 08:12 PM.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
I have not chimed in on the track before mods as jid2 is stating because of his track experience on his motorcycles. He has a good understanding of the principles involved.
But I agree with you - start slow then work up from there. The first two mods I always recommend for track days - pads and DOT4 fluid.
Or do the mods, get a slow/safe tune for tracking and have fun with it. Learn the limits and increase your speed gradually up to full power. Crawl, walk, run.
But I agree with you - start slow then work up from there. The first two mods I always recommend for track days - pads and DOT4 fluid.
Or do the mods, get a slow/safe tune for tracking and have fun with it. Learn the limits and increase your speed gradually up to full power. Crawl, walk, run.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
duho, I cant find the pic I am looking for of the Evolution of Man that ends with the Stig......picture that here:
Last edited by Smike; Dec 23, 2008 at 08:33 PM.
jid2- No offense taken. I don't think I'm going nutso with the power mods, I am doing most of the basics you mentioned along with the pads, lines fluid and suspension. I'm not sure if you caught that in my initial posting.
o-townFLA- I've read the great debates discussing lower-end megan coilovers and the like vs. HD Bilsteins, Springs, Swaybars and after going for a ride in SmikeEvo's car, I was sold on the later setup....I literally already have them in my garage just staring at me. haha.
I would agree that the HD Bilsteins and Springs may not control body roll well, but with the sway bars I was incredibly impressed, I think the sways are key. I feel my choice will be better for me than basic coilovers for daily driving in terms of no squeaks and corrosion resistance, and reliability. They also should be easier to install and the less adjustments the better for me on the track. That coupled with their larger fluid resevoir (fade resistance on the track) and the test ride from SmikeEvo sold me. Perhaps camber adjustment may limit me one day, but hopefully that will take some time. But one day I'd like to get a ride in a basic coilover setup car.
o-townFLA- I've read the great debates discussing lower-end megan coilovers and the like vs. HD Bilsteins, Springs, Swaybars and after going for a ride in SmikeEvo's car, I was sold on the later setup....I literally already have them in my garage just staring at me. haha.
I would agree that the HD Bilsteins and Springs may not control body roll well, but with the sway bars I was incredibly impressed, I think the sways are key. I feel my choice will be better for me than basic coilovers for daily driving in terms of no squeaks and corrosion resistance, and reliability. They also should be easier to install and the less adjustments the better for me on the track. That coupled with their larger fluid resevoir (fade resistance on the track) and the test ride from SmikeEvo sold me. Perhaps camber adjustment may limit me one day, but hopefully that will take some time. But one day I'd like to get a ride in a basic coilover setup car.
no sweat, be right over.....now if I could only get that snow plow mounted on the front of my car for the trip through the midwest hehe....screw trying to get a kayak mount on the alum. roof. Hah!
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iTrader: (38)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 9,319
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
Goals:
-Straightline, run w/ 2008 M3 (long shot 414hp, 295 tq, 3726 lbs.), E46 M3 (333hp, 262 tq, 3415 lbs.), 2006 BMW M Coupe (330 horsepower and 262 pound-feet, 3230 lbs.), 2008 Porsche Carerra (325hp, 273 tq 3990 lbs.)
-relatively quiet to keep LEOs at bay and my sanity.
-Keep it my daily driver, NOT **** off passengers too much.
-Stock fitment, no rubbing or squeaks and very little to no modifying of undertrays or other stock components... I want to look as stock as possible.
Questions:
-What additional power mods do I need to run straightline with my fellow track buddy cars listed above?
-Do I need an intercooler for hot trackdays? *kicks hornets nest* I've read where EBAY FMICs are great for a pull or two on the dyno, but I want sustained cooling. With my mods and how hard I'll have to push stock turbo to run w/ buddies, will the stock FMIC heat soak? Will EBAY FMIC heat soak less than stocker? (or just not worth the time & $ for upgrade, go straight to brand name FMIC?)
-I have not seen the Buschur Race FMIC be beaten, and it's on sale now, but is it overkill for my stock (somewhat pushed?) turbo and mods? (I realize stock turbo being pushed may generate a lot of heat vs. bigger turbo at same pwr level)
-How much does Buschur Race FMIC weight vs. stocker? Is all that weight up front worth the added cooling (and pwr?) for my situation?
-Can anyone link to a Buschur FMIC install where they show how much the stock undertray and crash bar is 'trimmed?' Trimming the stock crash bar is unnerving to me.
I apologize in advance for those that will respond with "use the search button" as I have...believe me I have for more than I'd like to admit to my employer.
The Buschur sale is almost over and I need answers quickly. thx.for 400+awhp you're going to need fp red turbo, injectors, tune
the buschur race fmic will fit with the crash bar...take the crash bar off, install fmic and reinstall the crash bar or just let the fmic be the crash bar (that's what I did
)
Which group are you going to the track with? What are the car prep rules? I agree with the others.. that a somewhat stock car is the way to start out! Make some basic safety changes..harness/brakes..then go to the track and learn how to drive the car..the instructors will help big time..use the money you will save in not modding..in track time..you will be much faster by the end of the first season.Then when you have your "driving style" figured out you can set up the car to suit your style of driving and be even faster..and way safer ! Just my $2. opinion since you asked Pete
Thx for the opinons Pete. I will be driving with Porsche and BMW car clubs of america. I am not sure of their rules, but I am wary of the noise regulations at different tracks, thus why I am not going w/ open dump O2 on my build. Anyone know if any other trackday clubs in the NE I might want to look into or BMW/Porsche car club rules I should be worried about with my setup? thx.