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Driveshaft vibration Need Advice

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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 06:06 PM
  #16  
Turbones's Avatar
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It must be the clutch not the drive shaft
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 06:14 PM
  #17  
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i dont think its the clutch, but I have heard several theories (some more absurd than others) as this seems to be common.

Last edited by holiday63; Jan 31, 2010 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #18  
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Did your mechanic do a timing belt? Is the vibration accompanied by an audibly loud noise, like that of a very raspy exhaust? If it is, you're timing may be on but your oil pump drive/front balance shaft is 180* out of alignment. I've dealt with the same vibration and noise on 2 different cars, both required the same fix. Even if the mark lines up on the oil pump drive pulley it can be out. There is a trick to making sure it is in before you put the timing belt on; Start with the pulley's timing mark at 12 o'clock, then rotate the pulley clockwise to the 9 o'clock position and release it. If the timing mark moves(it's very slight as the shaft is counterbalanced) towards the 6 o'clock, the shaft is 180* out of time. If it moves towards the 12 o'clock position it is in time and you can finish lining up the marks and install the timing belt.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by StreetEvo
Did your mechanic do a timing belt? Is the vibration accompanied by an audibly loud noise, like that of a very raspy exhaust? If it is, you're timing may be on but your oil pump drive/front balance shaft is 180* out of alignment. I've dealt with the same vibration and noise on 2 different cars, both required the same fix. Even if the mark lines up on the oil pump drive pulley it can be out. There is a trick to making sure it is in before you put the timing belt on; Start with the pulley's timing mark at 12 o'clock, then rotate the pulley clockwise to the 9 o'clock position and release it. If the timing mark moves(it's very slight as the shaft is counterbalanced) towards the 6 o'clock, the shaft is 180* out of time. If it moves towards the 12 o'clock position it is in time and you can finish lining up the marks and install the timing belt.
Bringing this thread back...
I just had my mechanic do a balance shaft delete using the AMS race balance shaft delete kit. Because the engine was still in the car, (I had him do my 60K service early before I put my FP Black in), you can't remove the front balance shaft. He did do the rear balance shaft.

I took my car out and it sounded like it had an exhaust leak. Even though I don't have the balance shaft belt on could this be why the car is SO loud now? It seems to happen around 3800 RPM and 6900 RPM.

I did have him put an AVID racing motor mount on the passenger side. I am planning on doing the driver side this coming weekend.

My question is - is it the balance shaft delete? The front balance shaft being out 180 degrees? Or the motor mount (or some mix of all of these).


Thanks for the help.



-Bink
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Old May 20, 2010 | 06:22 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by binky
Bringing this thread back...
I just had my mechanic do a balance shaft delete using the AMS race balance shaft delete kit. Because the engine was still in the car, (I had him do my 60K service early before I put my FP Black in), you can't remove the front balance shaft. He did do the rear balance shaft.

I took my car out and it sounded like it had an exhaust leak. Even though I don't have the balance shaft belt on could this be why the car is SO loud now? It seems to happen around 3800 RPM and 6900 RPM.

I did have him put an AVID racing motor mount on the passenger side. I am planning on doing the driver side this coming weekend.

My question is - is it the balance shaft delete? The front balance shaft being out 180 degrees? Or the motor mount (or some mix of all of these).


Thanks for the help.



-Bink

I have 3 out of the 4 solid motor mounts in the car. There is a big difference in the vibrations when you install the solid motor mounts. I had all 4 motor mounts in but the rear one caused the windshield and dash to vibrate too much and i didnt like it. So i put the stock motor mount in the rear. Im not sure how much more vibrations you get when you take out the balance shafts but i hope this helps.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 06:27 AM
  #21  
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Ok im back on with the same problem. Originally my driveshaft vibrated due to my rear motor mount being loose. Im having the same problem now only i know my rear motor mount is tight. So i got underneath and noticed that my driveshaft carrier bearings seemed pretty worn out. So i tried tightening them. Well my luck came into play and i snapped one of the carrier bearing bolts in half. So i went to get new carrier bearings from the dealership and asked if the bolt i snapped was replaceable. They said that it might be welded into the unibody.

So i have to see about getting that fixed before i can put in the new carrier bearings to see if that solves the problem.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 06:38 AM
  #22  
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Ok i just replaced the driveshaft carrier bearings and it stopped the vibration i was getting out of my driveshaft. The carrier bearings are easy to replace all you need is an impact gun and a hammer. quick and easy.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by robogast
Ok i just replaced the driveshaft carrier bearings and it stopped the vibration i was getting out of my driveshaft. The carrier bearings are easy to replace all you need is an impact gun and a hammer. quick and easy.
Where did you buy the replacements at? I was under the impression you were unable to buy them separately.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by revvin9k
Where did you buy the replacements at? I was under the impression you were unable to buy them separately.
I got them at the mitsubishi dealership. they are $73.00 a peice. Its not hard to replace.
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