i've been trying to bleed my clutch for days now and nothing...i had pulled out my motor and while i was at it was going to change the clutch line to a ss braided line but never ended up doing so i connected back the hard line to the factory line and tried bleeding and nothing...even used a speed bleeder and nothing...i've searched for leaks and no leaks...the level on the reservoir doesn't even drop

does anyone have any ideas what else it could be..i am hoping it is not the master that it took a crap

 

If you have ever adjusted the length of the clutch pedal rod under the dash, you may have altered the ability of the master to pull in more fluid. It is very common after the installation of an aftermarket clutch for the end user to adjust this rod to gain the engagement/shifting characteristics they desire(most often, lengthening it). In doing this, the piston inside the master never gets pulled back far enough when the pedal is at rest at the top of its stroke. This means that the passage way, in the master cylinder, that would allow new fluid to be drawn in is blocked by the "new" location of the piston. This adjustment works fine on a car that has the clutch bled prior to adjustment and will continue to work fine until pressure is released from the system such as replacing a clutch line. If you will try getting under the dash and shortening the rod 3-4 turns you should be able to again bleed the clutch. Once pressure has returned and the clutch is adequately bled, you can then adjust the rod for the preferred engagement.

 

Also how high are you filling the reservoir with fluid? It needs to be very high (up to the rim of the fill neck) because the pick-up for the clutch master cylinder is at the very top in the back right corner of the reservoir.

 

+1 to that. You need to fill it all the way up. I had the exact same situation you are describing and then realized (after reading the evomoto write-up) that I needed to fill it all the way to the top...and then presto. Six bleeds and the clutch came right in. You will still have to lift the pedal off the floor after you crack the line open though but it will get progressively stiffer.

 

Just pulling the bleeder out, and refilling 3 times has always worked for me. On dsm's and evo's.

 

i am gonna try about the rod length since it has been adjusted before.

 

+1 on Drifto's post. If the pedal height adjustment is too tight the master cylinder replenishing ports will be blocked by the piston and will never bleed out. You should have a small amount of free play before the rod actually pushes the piston in the master cylinder.

 

that sounds really true...but even with a speed bleeder

 

I have had cars not bleed at all with the vacuum bleeder or the pressure bleeder set at 35psi.

 

i pulled the rod back to normal didn't do much then i set the bleeder to 35psi and everything just bleed out like a bat from hell thank you very much you've save me a lot of trouble