Hey guys,

I've tried searching for what my issue is. I have found several threads that discuss potential problems but would like to get a clearer answer.

Issue: Dead, sticking, soft Clutch Pedal

Details: My evo is not my daily but I decided to drive it around for the week (Wednesday-Friday).

It drove fine without issues until Friday on my way home from work. About a mile out, the clutch pedal started sticking and I had to pull it back up with my feet. As I got closer home and hitting all these stupid traffic lights, it got worse and worse.

I did a visual check once I got in my driveway and no leaks. I checked the brake/clutch reservoir and it shows as min-max (closer to max).

Research shows me it is likely air in my clutch line and need to bleed it (see links below). It could also be a bad slave cylinder.

I had to worry about my son's christening so the evo took the back seat and really no rush to fixing it as well. I am going to do the bleeding process this weekend but I wanted to hear if there were any other suggestions or something I need to be concerned with?

Additional notes:

1. No pedal as in it's so soft that it doesn't come back up unless you use your hand.
2. Fluid level looks fine from the outside and opening the cap.
3. I did not see any visual leaks.
4. I removed the MAF and I am not running a underpanel so no "wet" spots.
5. Nothing out of the ordinary prior to assume it was the actual clutch. No noise, bangs, smells etc. Only symptom was the sticking clutch and progressively got worse as I got closer to home.

I burned out my clutch in my old IX and all the symptoms in 5 and clutch slipping were giveaways. So I don't think it's the clutch but I am also hoping it's not since that's $$$$$$$.

Additionally, for those that search for this in the future, here is the hardwork done for you:


How to: Bleed your clutch / brake

Another good link with pictures and clearer walk-through:

evomoto how-to

 

I think there is a spring on the pedal to help pull the pedal up when it's coming back up to its home position so check that first to make sure it's not binding then move on the master and slave cylinders.

 

I believe you are referring to the clutch pedal adjustment section. I will have a take a look.

Clutch pedal adjustment

 

Same thing happened to me. Was told clutch master. Spent 7 hours replacing that SOB and at 1am we finished and started the car up and it was still dead.

it was my 6 month old clutch, springs dropped.

I did everything too, clutch pedal adjustment, CMC, SMC. Anything it could have been before coming to terms with the fact it was the clutch

 

I would start with trying to bleed it as you stated, but since you didnt mention the system being opened i would suspect its fine. You will probably find that you need a master cylinder or an entire clutch.

 

This happened to me a little over a month ago. Turned out to be my throw out bearing, while I was in there I decided to put in a new clutch and flywheel. Easy to way check your tob, there is a rubber plug you can remove on bottom of trans and you can look in there and see if its still intact and up to par.

 

F the bleeding.Drop the tranny your tob clip came off or your clutch disk shattered.

 

I prefer doing a bleed since it cost very minimal. If necessary, I'll go with a slave cylinder first but I will check for bad TOB.

I will have it checked out by someone after bleeding the system before I put money in the wrong spots.

 

This thread looks interesting as well. I'll have to check the wedge collar as ACT even commented on it and I have an ACT clutch!

Wedge collar became dislodged?

 

If the slave cylinder is not leaking then it's not your problem unless it is completely seized. It's a very simple system.

 

This. Check your TOB by removing the rubber plug on the bottom of the trans and have someone push the clutch while you watch. (SHIELD YOUR EYES!)

This was the first thing I did, but my TOB was still attached and working properly. Which is why I ordered another clutch, mine has to be the springs.

Good luck man!

 

Makes sense. How can I determine if the TOB is f*cked? From looking at other threads they mentioned vibrations, noises etc so that's why I can't get over why it would be the clutch, etc?

I am an IT and determining symptoms, research, diagnosing the problem, research then performing the related fixes is the way I am programmed.

The list of symptoms and research show an issue with possible air in the system, resolution clutch bleed, or cmc/smc. Only thing that I may have missed is any leaks. I really didn't check for leaks until 2 days later when I removed the MAF. I would assume that it requires a lot of air to cause the problem or could be just a pocket of air that doesn't require a huge leak to cause my problem. I rather not jump to clutch kit when it will obviously require a bleed in the clutch after anyway?

I have a clutch kit + flywheel lined up if necessary. I will move onto that after this weekend.

 

So I did the clutch bleed and helped a lot (there was air!) but then it would come back somewhat during my test. I drove it around and when I parked it in my garage while I had the chance I noticed there was a leak since there was wet spots under the car.

So it definitely is NOT my clutch since I had no problems shifting during my test drive. It started getting soft then after pumping my clutch during a stop it would harden then get soft again. I would think it just needs a few more bleeds to get any additional air out.


Is there any info about my TCASE/Transfer leak? Any huge worries?

[1] Leak at my TCase/Transfer location
[2] Clutch line seems to be getting better but I am worried that the leak is causing additional air pockets so I'll need the leak fixed first.

After lifting it up, it was coming from where the TCASE and Transmission mate up. From information researched already, it sounds like the O-Rings can go bad. Doesn't sound too bad but I will get this done by a shop instead of DIY. I am not in a rush but I am not sure this is my final fix for the clutch issue.

Will this leak cause my clutch line to get air?

 

Here is my leak:





Would this cause 1st issue or is it now 2 issues?

 

bump. Anyone have any additional input? If a transfer case leak can cause my dead clutch feel? As mentioned after bleeding it felt a lot better but it did feel like it needed to be done again. I don't want to waste my time with doing that if the tcase leak will cause more air going in.