Yeah, that`s cool. I was worried that maybe I`d measured wrong. So, I remeasured and I was indeed wrong about the 3/8". I think that it`s closer to being 3/16", or 1/4". (So, I went back and altered my previous posts where I`d quoted the 3/8") But, I am hoping that the tiny difference won`t have any negative effects. Good luck.

I found something else of interest. The turnbuckle on Forge`s VIII actuator is shorter and if you mount it onto the Forge IX WGA`s actuator rod it reduces the overall length of the rod assembly about 3/8-1/4" without the need of hacking anything up

So, an alternative to cutting off the end of the actuator rod on the Forge IX WGA is to order the shorter length turnbuckle from a Forge VIII WGA. It threads right on in place of the IX actuator`s turnbuckle. This makes higher levels of preload a plug and play proposition(Live and learn!). Regrettably, I did not find that out until this morning. That`s why I didn`t let you know yesterday afternoon.

 

Sparky i just got my fp-red and then last week, i bought the forge wga because of the adjustable features and piston design (to help battle taper); what is your advice on preload setup or should i order the VIII turnbuckle like you mention before?

I also have a evc 6

 

Most of the discussion above about altering the length of the acuator rod only applies to the Green turbo and guys running extreme high boost with Meth injection.

Apparently these guys want to run a lot of preload on the WGA. In fact it is more preload than I would care to run myself. These guys are on the radical edge for sure.

You shouldn't need to go to the above extremes to get your Red and the Forge WGA working perfectly together. You'll just need to bolt the WGA on and give the turnbuckle about three full rotations. First spin the turbuckle to where it freely slides on and off the pivot arm and then spin it three full rotations so as to shorten the overall length of the rod. Now just mount it onto the pivot arm. That should be enough preload.

There should be no reason for you to go to the expense of buying the VIII turnbuckle or the hassle of cutting the actuator rod. These mods are only for running way high levels of preload. It shouldn't be necessary for the majority of us Evo owners.

IMO, the WGA doesn't actually have that much to do with boost taper. Instead, to prevent taper you'll want to have FP port the turbine housing. If you decide to do it then get their full port job. No need to send them the entire turbocharger...just the turbine housing.

 

i got their port option too, i should be set this up and coming spring; thanks bro

 

i also have a red and forge ix actuator i will let you know soon how they work together.

 

Then you should be set to go. Let us know once you install the Red after the thaw.

 

Ok, will do...

 

bump...any results yet?

 

I haven't finished dialing in the boost controller but right know it's holding 23.5 psi at 7k.
I started pushing alittle bit of coolant so I guess it's time to replace head studs and gasket. : (
But I will update when done.

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but how often do these wga go bad? I to have the diaphramless piston type forge actuator and have recently been having problems with the preload. When I swapped my o2 housing I tightened it up for a little more boost. It lasted about 3 months and then started to leak exhaust out of the o2 dump. I tightened it up again and it lasted around a month. I was out of threads so I decided to remove the locking nut and tighten it down. That only last about a day and its loose again. Is the spring bad or what? I already contacted forge and they are sending the rebuild parts free of charge even tho I am not the original owner or purchaser of their part. Huge thumbs up for them, and I hope this fixes the problem.

 

Question: How are you determining that there is leakage? Are you hearing it? Is it happening at idle?

 

Yes. For three months the car idled normal and all exhaust was coming out of the muffler. Gradually it got louder and more towards the front of the motor. I can feel it coming out by simply placing my hand under the dump. I do not have a divided gasket which I know is causing some of the leak be it has gotten alot worse. Plus with the motor cool I could wiggle the wg flapper open and hear it seat. I tightened it down to where no play was had. Three months later and I can move it about 3mm up and down and the car has drasticly slowed in spool up and idle is affected until I tighten up the wg arm, but im out of threads to tighten it down so im guessing the wg needs rebuilding or so I hope. I think u sparky have replied in many of my "boost" related threads and in my weird idle thread. The first issue was cracked manifold and I think the rest has stemmed from this wg being on its way out.

 

awdordie: Yeah, the WGA rebuild is a great first step. Good luck and keep us posted!