That is what my mechanic at the dealer told me and he has been working on these motors and drivetrains for over 10 years. With the stock clutch it is bad because it puts excessive wear on the clutch. But with a twin plate clutch it is good because it lets the clutch take the wear (which it can easily take) instead of putting all of it on the tranny (which is far more likely to break than an aftermarket clutch). So basically, once you do the twin-plate clutch, you want it taking as much of the impact as possible.

 

Already done both, plus the Exedy hyper-single. Much much better clutch feel.

 

Well, what do you think about me taking it off for the stock clutch now, and putting it back on when I do replace the clutch for a better one? Is it easy to put back on?

 

From what I can tell, it isn't too easy to put it back in at all because you kinda have to pry it out of the hole that is in. Getting it back up in there the same way it was, seems difficult.

 

Hmm...that changes things then. I'm just gonna replace the hose for now; safer bet. If anything, I can always take it out later. I should get the hose in the mail tomorrow.

 

That would probably be the smarter thing to do. I mean if you are definitely going to replace the clutch with something stronger like a twin plate then you should leave the restrictor in so you aren't tearing your tranny up too bad when you do.

 

I yanked the restrictor at around 2k... put the
line in about 7k or so. I drive the **** out of the car and now have over 8500 miles on it without so much as a hiccup. No more smell of burning clutch after removing the restrictor... not a single ground gear after the line, where I was grinding fast 1st to 2nd shifts on occasion before.

 

sorry about this, what does replacing the clutch line do anyway?? Just wondering...new Evo owner here and I have seen a lot of topics on the clutch...please help.
Thanks
Clint

 

The clutch line in the Evo is over 2ft long. That's long enough to provide too much slack. Some people say the rubber hose, being that it's rubber and so long, will balloon up, causing the driver to experience notchy shifting since the clutch doesn't fully disengage. But most importantly, the long rubber hose dampens a lot of the vibration, causing the driver not to be able to feel the engagement well. Here's the big thread on it:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=35497

Here's the thread on the restrictor removal:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=30664

 

Then they are morons. If you can't figure out how to properly bleed a hydraulic line...

Use a mity-vac on the bleed nipple to pull the fluid and air out. You may also have to bleed the master cylinder and slave cylinder.

To bleed the master:
0. Put a mity-vac on the bleed line with a good vacuum on it.
1. disconnect the master cylinder plunger from the clutch pedal assy
2. Fill the reservoir all the way, and have someone on hand to fill it.
3. Open the bleed.
4. press in on the master cylinder plunger until it hits bottom.
5. Close the bleed.
6. Let the plunger back out SLOWLY!
7. Repeat from 2 a couple more times.
8. Reconnect the plunger to the clutch pedal.

Then bleed the clutch line all the way as you normally would.

Then bleed the slave cylinder.
0. Put a mity vac on the bleed line with a good vacuum on it.
1. Push the slave cylinder plunger all the way back into the slave cylinder housing.
2. Open the bleed.
3. press in on the clutch pedal.
4. Quickly, with the pedal pressed in, tighten the bleed.
5. Let the clutch pedal out SLOWLY!
6. Repeat from 2 a couple times.

Then again, bleed the clutch line all the way as you normally would.

The mity-vac prevents air from getting back into the line.

That will get you a rock-solid clutch hydraulic system.

 

i say do both along with upgrade the clutch. but before yo udo that learn how to launch a car without a restrictor. the tranny will hold trmendous power.... if you launch right. i have torn up 5 speeds before.... but they were only rated at 200 horse power(that is the reason why they blew...stupid borg warners and gm) and i had a kevlar cluth. this tranny is rated well over 350 hp. no need to worry till you start adding power. but the most important thing is to learn how to drive. that same tranny people are hitting low 13's on they just launch nice and soft. my car was way undergeared which put to much stress on the whole drivetrain. i also twisted my drivesaft with that tranny if that tell you anything.

 

What's up Thoe ...

Hey man, knowing your situation ....... you are much better off changing the line to a steel-braided only! There is no need for you to remove the restrictor since ...

1. This is your 1st stick-shift car
2. You do not launch or drive aggressively on a reg basis

Over time you will become a pro in reference to driving a manual AWD car .... but right now I think the restrictor is perfect for your situation ... since you are still learning how to drive it.

Hey, I'm even still debating to do this ... and I've been driving manual cars for a long time now.

 

putting back the restrictor is not only possible but very easy...i tried to put it back when i was taking it out just to make sure if i needed to i could....but i like it out MUCH better...i have the ss line also

 

well, im decided now. the SS line and restrictor is coming out. I have the stock clutch and dont plan on replacing it with after market, -(only if It wears out)- I am getting sick of the notches between gears every now and then. I have been drivin' sticks since 12 years old, and know I can drive da thing

and I am getting sick OF SMELLIN THE CLUTCH!!! lol ....

 

Restrictor and spring falls right out into your hand when banjo bolt and line are removed. Reinstallation is equally as simple.