Yes, I've read those huge threads that talk about this subject, but I'd like to hear mainly from those who did one or the other -- replacing the clutch hose with a stainless steel one and/or removing the restrictor. I'm debating on whether or not to remove the restrictor, since it voids the driveline warranty.

 

well, i have the ss-clutch line and still have the restrictor in there. I was really close to taking the restrictor out but decided not to, just to be on the safe side. The clutch line still helped out alot, it feels normal!! There is a reason for the restrictor, and for that reason i'm gonna leave it in there. I don't trust myself to take over its job.

Mike S.

 

Don't most cars not have the restrictor, anyways?

 

i wouldn't know, the evo is my first manual transmission. But i understand why it is there with the 4-wheel drive. I bet its just mitsu's way of saving their *** from warrenting a lot of trany's.

I saw that subaru has put 205's on their stock WRX now and they put 225's on the STI. I feel that is on the small side for the HP they are putin out. Maybe that is their way of saving the trannies. Cause when jonny street racer dumps the clutch at 6 grand on a 4-wheel drive car something is gonna break loose (clutch,tires,diffs,tranny,...). Ya know?

 

I tried to remove the clutch restrictor yesterday. Can't really find the 2 items that need to remove. I ended up putting it back. Do you know what need to remove?

I think I will swap out the oem clutch line with SS version later.

 

I asked the dealer that installed my twin-plate clutch to remove the restrictor while they had everything out and they said that it would not be a good idea because if the clutch line has to be bled, it would never be the same. They said with the twin-plate clutch that I wouldn't need to do the restirctor or the SS line. I am still, however, going to do the SS line next time I am under the car but I think doing either should only be in conjunction with a new clutch. Neither one without a twin-plate clutch is an end-all, be-all.

 

Just a question on this topic. If I just change the SS line, would I still need to bleed the system?

 

The plug is between the fluid line and the bleeder valve on the fluid line side. if your dealer's tech. can't bleed your system do it yourself. The job took me an hour to do solo.

 

Still debating whether to take off the restrictor or not. Because this might cause immature tranny wear.

 

With my somewhat basic mechanical knowledge...(I have done a clutch master and slave cylinder)...

Your putting two completely different things together...Don't correlate the SS Line and restrictor together. It appears mitsu put the restrictor in their to save driveline wear, which may be harsher on clutch life. Since you put an Exedy twin disk in, why be concerned with clutch life? You should be fine with just the line, especially considering no one has ran without the restrictor for a considerable time to understand the implications... I haven't priced what the diff's and driveshafts cost, but I would imagine the parts in your AWD system cost a crapload of money, so its really your choice? It might give you a REALLY amazing launch, but considering people are pulling 1.7 60fts with the restrictor in, why take it out? If you don't know what a 1.7 60ft means...Its like having HUGE slicks on a RWD car. As for the procedure, if you do not have experience bleeding a clutch line don't do it! You want to make sure you don't have bubbles in there....

Hopefully my Exedy will be here this week and ill have it in within two weeks...

 

Yes, think we can see that most abuse is cased by IMMATURE tranny wear.

 

Based on the replies so far, you guys would rather have the restrictor do the clutch feathering on each and every shift? Taking the restrictor out will just allow more clutch control; it doesn't necessarily mean you will have PREmature tranny wear (if you can shift right and do no clutch drops, that is). Keep in mind, the Evo is one of the few cars with the restrictor.

What I want to know is if this restrictor removal is the right procedure for me, if I don't do clutch drops and I want to prevent premature clutch wear?

 

Thoe--

The problem is that it is a better solution just to upgrade the clutch. Once you do that, you will be glad you have the restrictor because then you WANT your clutch taking the beating so that it relieves some of the tension off the tranny. The restrictor is actually a good thing once you upgrade the factory clutch.

 

Well, my clutch is healthy and I don't plan on upgrading clutch til I need to, long down the road. So your understanding is that with stock clutch, it is better to remove the restrictor, but with aftermarket, you should have it?

 

I have about 5k miles on my car with no clutch or shifting problems. I did the ss clutch and restrictor removal at the same time. Feels better, more positive. I don't launch my car at all but do drive it fast on twisty roads. I am not changing a perfectly working clutch and spending $1500. I think this change will help the stock clutch last if you know how to drive and shift properly. If you don't and are unsure of your ability to shift smoothly then don't do it. If my clutch goes out with 10k-20k I will know that it is just a weak *** clutch because mine is not abused. If this is your first manual I wouldn't do it, but if you do you can always put the restrictor and stock line back on if you don't like it. It's only $70. Good investment imo.

take care