Good decision. You will be very happy with the increased feel and control of the clutch engage/disengage process. If you don't beat it you won't break it.

 

I got my SS line put in today with restrictor still intact and boy, I noticed a huge difference already. The clutch seems to engage much more precised and no more mushy feel to it. With the stock line, I could actually feel the swelling of the line because it is rubber I guess. Bleeding it was a pain in the butt though!!

 

Gotta love the mechanics! Twin plate clutch means each disk will only slip half as much and therefore last twice as long as stock. This has nothing to do with the clutch slipping in the first place.

The slipping is controlled by a combination of available clamping force from the pressure plate and the intervention of the restrictor mechanism. The restrictor prevents the immediate application of full clamping pressure by slowing the final transfer rate of the hydraullic fluid. The restrictor will continue to prevent the immediate application of full clamping pressure weather you use one disk or five.

If you also installed a stronger aftermarket pressure plate and leave the restrictor in place, you may still experience even greater initial clamping pressure than the stock unit with the restrictor removed and therefore nullify the shock absorbing safety net you think the restrictor is providing.

For example if the stock pressure plate is capable of delivering 2200 lbs of clamping force and the restrictor only alows the immediate application of 90% of the full force prior to intervening, immediate clamping force is reduced to 1980 psi (2200 * .90 = 1980), remaining 220 psi is applied gradually through the restrictor. Replace the stock pressure plate with a 2800 psi unit and leave the restritor installed and you have an immediate clamping force of 2520 psi (2800 * .90 = 2520). This nets a yeild of 540 psi greater than the 2200 psi availabe with the stock pressure plate if the restrictor is removed.

You need to consider all of the variables that affect the clutch mechanism before making changes.

Learn how to control the clutch engagement process and you will not experience driveline failure with the restrictor removed no mater how much clamping force is available.

 

I removed JUST the restrictor from my EVO. It was a free and easy fix for a BAD factory "band aid". I chose to do the restrictor only because of 3 reasons. 1st, the car still looks completely stock. 2nd, the factory rubber line is not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Its plenty sturdy for transferring pressure from your clutch pedal to the slave cylinder, and changing it wont make as much difference as changing brakelines where you are working with MUCH higher fluid pressures. And lastly it takes all of 15 minutes. You dont even have to remove the slave cyl. Just unscrew the banjo bolt and take the plastic crap out, re-assemble, bleed and drive!
It makes a noticeable difference in how the clutch "takeup and release" feels. Try it....... Its FREE!!!

Jason

 

Sure, the rest of us who have done the line long after pulling the restrictor are wrong...

 

NO, you're wrong about not much difference with the new line......It made a night and day difference when I swapped the lines....Much more precise engagement and disenagement of the clutch.....

 

Roy,
Glad to hear that you like your new mod How difficult was the install? Did you do it by yourself?

 

I ordered the stainless line last week, I'm leaning toward the line only, and leaving the restrictor alone.

Something that I don't understand is why people are putting in twin plate clutch assemblies in their daily drivers.

 

I had someone do it because I don't want to hassle with the bleeding process. It was fairly easy to do. Just the bleeding part was a pain in the butt. It took about 1 hour......

 

I never said you were wrong........ Im sure the line helps also.

 

People have been pulling restricters in their DSMs for YEARS and only seeing improvement in clutch life. The trannies in these cars are pretty solid, if you slip launch with intelligence, you aren't going to hurt the transmission.

Whether you have a super twin disc ninja power clutch in the car or even the OEM unit, the restricter WILL cause ANY clutch to wear much faster than it is supposed to. The line is noce for more positive pedal feel, but (1) Intelligent clutch/tranny usage and (2) restricter removal will ultimately let the OEM clutch last the longest time.

I've never once smelled burning clutch in my car. I've never launched the car, either, though.

 

I just got my SS clutch hose in. I watched my mechanic friend put it in, so I know it's done right. We didn't have to remove the airbox. So far, I've notice the shifting is a little better with less notchiness. I still have notchiness in 4th gear though. I can feel the clutch better and my clutch free play is still the same. Overall, it wasn't a night and day difference to me--maybe it's because this is my first manaul car. I'll write back more when I get to drive it more.

 

who has removed the airbox for doing a clutch line swap? yikes

nothing needs to be removed except the old clutch line

On 2G cars removing the restrictor is popular....have not found many of our 1G customers requesting it though. I have had an ACt clutch in my GVR4 for about 55k miles, about 50 passes at the strip and the restrictor (if its there from the factory) is still there....no issues at all

 

1Gs don't have restrictors in their clutch line.

 

well there ya go then