I finally finished my installation of the following:

ETS 4" Core
ETS UICP
ETS LICP
ETS Intake
ETS Super Value Battery
ETS Radiator Hose
Perrin Oiled Filter
Saikou- Michi DC3
Stainless (supposedly) Tow Hook
APR Splitter

Out with the old:



And in with the new:











These were my first parts from ETS, but I have to say, great fit and quality! Michael and everyone at ETS was friendly, patient, and helpful. Very good experience and everything looks great!

My DC3 was also a very nice piece and Saikou- Michi was easy to deal with and was helpful with answering all of my questions. That is a custom, home-made bracket for the catch can off of the battery. I required somewhere between 16' and 18' to route the tubes as shown. A little motor oil can get the smaller inner diameter 5/16" fuel tubing over the larger DC3 barbs.

As for the APR splitter, I was less than pleased with its fit. When trying to line it up with my bumper holes, I could get only 3 bolts of 10 to line up! It required a lot of drilling and dremeling to get fitted properly. In addition, the entire hole pattern was 1/2" to the right if facing the car. Fitting it really was not difficult, but from the factory, the holes were terrible. Another issue with the splitter is that you need to remove the entire bumper to access the intercooler, brake ducts, or piping. Very poor design choice. I will have some custom double threaded spacers made to allow for a removal of just the splitter from the bumper without the removal of the bumper from the car.
For those of you with the SE lip, you should cut off the extra plastic 'flange' that runs along either side of the lip to allow for a flush fit with the splitter. Also, the install would be impossible with the supplied bolts. They are far too short, albeit nice in their stainless steel construction. Here are some pictures of what I did, this requires (all in stainless steel) 10 extra large washers, 40 small washers, 10 bolts in the given thread size and diameter but 1 and 1/4" long, 10 standard nuts, and the supplied 10 locking nuts. Hope these help someone:





If anyone has any questions shoot! With all of those shiny pipes I couldn't help but post!

 

I have no clue why some of those photos are small and others big... all on the same camera... but if anyone has an idea on how to resize them, let me know and Ill fix them.

 

Looks great! In the past month, I put on the ETS LICP, UICP, 3" IC, & super value battery too I still need to get the intake.

 

since you have the d3 catch can set up what did you do with the barbed bung on the intake pipe?

 

Not 100% sure what you mean, but the new ETS pipe has a barb just like the original intake pipe. I routed that barb to the bottom of the right (facing the car) can. The top pipe is routed to the breather. Hope that helped

 

My APR splitter fit just fine. All the holes lined up just fine.

 

Do you have a stock 9 lip? Maybe it was my SE lip that threw things off, but there is no way that I could have gotten that splitter on the way it came. The hardware is also unusable I am assuming because of my SE lip. Also, the fact that the entire pattern was off by 1/2" was disappointing. None of these fitment issues matters now, and it was far from a big deal to fix, but for those of you who are expecting to buy this and throw it on, I would advise you that is unlikely.

 

I know you have the barb but where is that tube goign since it usually would go to the breather on the valve cover?

 

Ahhh... no, I have an VIII with the stock lip. I didn't think there should be any differances though. Bue sure to use the support rods and use washer on the inside of the bumper to avoid them pulling through.

I'll tell you, I love my splitter, and it actually works. The bad part about that is, the gap under my head lights is slowy increasing due to the downforce. I'm going to try and find a way to mount the splitter to the chassis and not the bumper, like it SHOULD be. The downforce would be even more useful then.

 

On the stock car there would be a 5/16" emission hose going from the breather on the right (facing) side of the valve cover to the barb on the intake tube. In my current set up I have a tube running from the breather valve to the top of catch can 2, then from the bottom barb to the barb on my ETS intake tube. In effect, the catch can is only between the two points, but they are still connected, same as stock.

 

I decided (for now) not to use the support rods for a couple of reasons. First, I am kinda opposed to the shiny rods as I like everything on my exterior to be either silver or black. Second, I use the car in an environment where the flex of the splitter will be tested, unfortunately. I am slightly concerned that the additional rigidity of those rods in combination with their very small mounting screws would result in damage to my bumper in the event of a test to that flex. Lastly, I did a damn good job with washers (huge as you can see) and I think the bumper will come apart before the splitter pulls through those holes.

With regard to the bad fit, its possible I just got a crappy example. But by that same reasoning, you may have just been fortunate to get a good one. Still, Ill say again, it wasnt hard to fix it up right, but it required some finagling to get it installed.

 

Nice Install! How does the car feel after install?


Looking Good!

Thanks,

Michael

 

The definitely has some more kick then it did. It is running a little ragged right now (I am thinking the solid intake pipe is the cause), but a tune is in the cards that should cure my ails. Thanks again for some good stuff

 

It looks good. I have just about all the same ETS parts as you but in anodized black. I need to take some pictures but it has been too cold to wash the car. I am also having some idle issues after installing the intake piping but scheduled to get a retune next week.