Major Idle prob..help!
#16
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well..I only have a small compressor, and it keeps turning on before I can reach 20+ psi so I can't hear...but up to that point I don't hear anything terrible. I do hear a small, and I mean very small sound coming from the turbo location. Thinking it may be the center section, I re-tightened the bolts thinking one may have come loose and re-tightened the licp just in case. I also cleaned the MAF just for sh*ts and giggles. Fired it back up....same problem. I just don't know.
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OK.. I swapped the JDM map for the stock 1 bar. Reflashed it with a modified ROM from Bigric09. After the very lopey idle warmup, the car actually idled normally..kinda. It was way better than it has been. Holding afr's around 14.5-15.3. Id dances around a little from lean to rich..but I still think the problem is there. When I rev the engine up some and it comes back down to it's idle rpm, it drops into the 10's afr range and is like the way it normally was. That being said though...it recovers to the 14-15 idle shortly after. I'm just beginning to wonder if this is going to be normal with all the mods done to the car? It's just not going to idle like a bone stock IX..and I know that.
#20
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You can try rescaling the MAF: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post5327996
I personally could not deal with the idling issues I had with my ETS intake, so I got rid of it.
I personally could not deal with the idling issues I had with my ETS intake, so I got rid of it.
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what did you swap it out for? I know pre-turbo I had idling issues with the ETS intake...that being said though. I used the intake pipe with a HKS filter instead of the k&n and the idle got much better. I wonder if it's filter related..intake pipe related...U just don't know at this point.
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My car has the same problem. Once warm the car idles pig rich and cuts out. Like 10.1:1 to 12.5:1 rich. Throwing a TPS code along with many more. All factory vacuum lines, O2 sensors, and evap parts deleted. Running a speed density system. Factory ECU does not respond to flashing when I try to bump the idle. No change at all. When I clear codes with car running the idle improves for a second and then returns to stalling. The code is still pending im assuming so no luck.
AMS 2.3L Stroker Kit w/ Oliver Rod Upgrade
AMS Race Balance Shaft Delete Kit
AMS Race Cylinder Head
AMS/ARP L19 Head Studs
Cosworth M2 Cams
Carbonetics Triple Disc Carbon Clutch
AMS 850R Turbo Kit
AMS 1200 HP Fuel System
AMS Intercooler
AMS Upper Intercooler Pipe
Tial BOV (9 lb. spring)
1200cc Injectors
HKS F-CON V-PRO Engine Management
HKS Evo IX F-CON Harness
HKS AIT + Pressure Sensor w/ Harness
HKS Knock Amp w/ Sensor
HKS EVC Boost Controller
Vibrant Vacuum Block
Never hear cams hit at all. What you guys think??
AMS 2.3L Stroker Kit w/ Oliver Rod Upgrade
AMS Race Balance Shaft Delete Kit
AMS Race Cylinder Head
AMS/ARP L19 Head Studs
Cosworth M2 Cams
Carbonetics Triple Disc Carbon Clutch
AMS 850R Turbo Kit
AMS 1200 HP Fuel System
AMS Intercooler
AMS Upper Intercooler Pipe
Tial BOV (9 lb. spring)
1200cc Injectors
HKS F-CON V-PRO Engine Management
HKS Evo IX F-CON Harness
HKS AIT + Pressure Sensor w/ Harness
HKS Knock Amp w/ Sensor
HKS EVC Boost Controller
Vibrant Vacuum Block
Never hear cams hit at all. What you guys think??
#23
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Yeah, I've seen numerous of these posts recently about stalling issues. It's like an EVO gremlin that's going around. wtf is up with this. I am getting to the point that I may take it somewhere that can run better diagnostic tests on it...like an o2 scan tool, a true vacuum leak test. Stuff like that. I'm running out of options.
#24
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There are plenty of replies to those posts as to how to fix that. Most people are just reluctant to even try suggestions.... Those arent gremlins, most issues are hardware related, they have to do with changed vacuum after installing something and the diverter valve spring not working properly at new vacuum. Another hardware problem — distorted MAF signal from aftermarket intakes.
If you want bling — tune out the problem. Otherwise fix the underlying hardware problem (fix vac leaks, use softer DV, try a different intake, i.e. stock rubber pipe)
Also cold weather seems to exacerbate these idle issues, that's probably why there are more posts now about that..
If you want bling — tune out the problem. Otherwise fix the underlying hardware problem (fix vac leaks, use softer DV, try a different intake, i.e. stock rubber pipe)
Also cold weather seems to exacerbate these idle issues, that's probably why there are more posts now about that..
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True...I agree. I personally still believe it's a vacuum related problem. The MAF was rescaled pre turbo with the ETS intake and idled OK. Like I said before, I swapped a guy for an HKS RS filter over the k&n and it helped idle. The k&n just didn't want to idle at all (pre turbo) I now have the k&n back on and plan to swap that out with some other filter to see what happens.
All mods were on the car except the manifold and turbo. I know my stock IX bov starts leaking at a measly 8 psi..it's minor but leaks none the less. I need to grab a new aftermarket one, was looking at the works or the aps twin vent.
All mods were on the car except the manifold and turbo. I know my stock IX bov starts leaking at a measly 8 psi..it's minor but leaks none the less. I need to grab a new aftermarket one, was looking at the works or the aps twin vent.
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Spot on! I rigged the stock rubber intake pipe to the MAF with recirc fitting and k&n filter. My vacuum, once the car was warm went up! From 10 in/hg to 15!!!!! It has a lopey idle of cossies, but idles perfectly and simply won't die! It doesn't even think about dipping into a **** poor idle. It stays around 14-15 afr's all day!
That being said though. Wouldn't that mean a potential loss of power if it increases vacuum b/c a more restrictive pipe? I know...don't complain the car idles right!
Soooo, does this mean I could swap back to the ETS intake pipe and re-scale the MAF to compensate for the air, or is it the restriction in the intake pipe the solution?
That being said though. Wouldn't that mean a potential loss of power if it increases vacuum b/c a more restrictive pipe? I know...don't complain the car idles right!
Soooo, does this mean I could swap back to the ETS intake pipe and re-scale the MAF to compensate for the air, or is it the restriction in the intake pipe the solution?
#28
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If you're on a stock frame turbo, i wouldn't worry about any power differences. If there are any, they are minimal. At such airflow a metal pipe is mostly for looks. You can try the MAF scaling and ETS pipe, but i recommend you stick with the rubber piece and a cone filter and have your car idle the way it's supposed to.
Unless someone points me to a back to back testing of rubber pipe vs. metal pipe showing power/tq gains, all talk about power difference is just that — talk.
Unless someone points me to a back to back testing of rubber pipe vs. metal pipe showing power/tq gains, all talk about power difference is just that — talk.
#29
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Yeah, power loss may be slight.
Something i'm trying to understand is, with the rubber intake pipe vacuum increased. How would scaling the maf have anything to do with vacuum? Or would it be simply be compensating with more fuel for the amount of air?
Something i'm trying to understand is, with the rubber intake pipe vacuum increased. How would scaling the maf have anything to do with vacuum? Or would it be simply be compensating with more fuel for the amount of air?
#30
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OK. Well I know the stock intake pipe cured the idle issues..but I'm still not happy that I can't get the ETS intake to work so I did a little experiment...I knew the results in my head, I wanted to confirm them.
I rigged both intakes. 1 with ETS intake pipe, k&n, stock MAF, ets recirc pipe. The other was the same exact except but I used the stock rubber intake pipe. The car runs great with the stock rubber pipe, idles perfectly. I swapped the ets intake on & fired it back up. It lost vacuum back to 10 in/hg and stuck the afr's in the 11's. I shut the car off, swapped the rubber intake back on fired it up and the idle went to near perfect. AFR's in the high 14's to 15's. I'm just not sure what to think..
I rigged both intakes. 1 with ETS intake pipe, k&n, stock MAF, ets recirc pipe. The other was the same exact except but I used the stock rubber intake pipe. The car runs great with the stock rubber pipe, idles perfectly. I swapped the ets intake on & fired it back up. It lost vacuum back to 10 in/hg and stuck the afr's in the 11's. I shut the car off, swapped the rubber intake back on fired it up and the idle went to near perfect. AFR's in the high 14's to 15's. I'm just not sure what to think..