Precision Turbo 6262 daily driver???
Ignorance is bliss I guess. "lag is over rated" really riles my up. In reality lag is the most devastating thing to an enjoyable street car set up. Those who say lag is tolerable have not the experience of driving the same power level without the lag.
My advice would be you should always choose the smallest turbo to support your power goals. a 6262 is but fuuk laggy for a 500-550 whp setup. A red turbo would be 100 times more fun with 1000rpm faster spool. You will have to run a meth kit to get it there. But it is easily capable of 525whp.
You also seem to have gold taste with silver budget. It is not wise to make 525whp on the stock block. just wont last very long. 450whp is a smart recommendation for maximum safe power on stock internals. Sure there will be those who have run 550+ on stock internals with some good success. But for every one of those there are ten who have blown their engine trying.
you dont need fuel rail upgrade. complete waste. regulator not needed either. better to spend money elsewhere. the DNP manifold is also hurting you. there is torque loss with that manifold with no significant HP gain.
My advice would be you should always choose the smallest turbo to support your power goals. a 6262 is but fuuk laggy for a 500-550 whp setup. A red turbo would be 100 times more fun with 1000rpm faster spool. You will have to run a meth kit to get it there. But it is easily capable of 525whp.
You also seem to have gold taste with silver budget. It is not wise to make 525whp on the stock block. just wont last very long. 450whp is a smart recommendation for maximum safe power on stock internals. Sure there will be those who have run 550+ on stock internals with some good success. But for every one of those there are ten who have blown their engine trying.
you dont need fuel rail upgrade. complete waste. regulator not needed either. better to spend money elsewhere. the DNP manifold is also hurting you. there is torque loss with that manifold with no significant HP gain.
Ive gotta agree with you. I dont terribly mind lag, BUT there is no sense in having lag if youre not going use the real potential of the turbo. No sense in buying a 40R if you use 550whp on the street, no sense in buying a Red if youre making 350whp on the street. What I do is find a power level youre comfortable running on the street 80%+ of the time and find the turbo that offers the best matches that.
This is some very sage advice and I hope the OP listens.
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 987
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From: IL
Not really sure why anyone suggest not going with anything smaller than a 35R.... Sure I don't have a AMS 700 whp car or a buschur 600 whp car
I do have one of the best daily driver setup's I feel with power left on the table...
2.3 liter 50 trim making 505 whp and 470 torque
I have a bit of power left on the table as well -
power mods I can switch too:
Race head
Cop ignition
bigger cams
E85
I could be wrong but for someone who dd the car and maybe drags 10 times a year - I am competitive enough on the strip with my friends and have awesome spool and I have to believe that making the switches above, I am guess I should net 50whp
I drove a 35R car on a 2.0 and personally I didn't like it. If it had a 2.3 in it and twin scroll - I could see that being fun.
my setup is just fun for dd and the style i driving - not sure if I ever have the desire or need 700whp
anyways just my two cents
I do have one of the best daily driver setup's I feel with power left on the table...
2.3 liter 50 trim making 505 whp and 470 torque
I have a bit of power left on the table as well -
power mods I can switch too:
Race head
Cop ignition
bigger cams
E85
I could be wrong but for someone who dd the car and maybe drags 10 times a year - I am competitive enough on the strip with my friends and have awesome spool and I have to believe that making the switches above, I am guess I should net 50whp
I drove a 35R car on a 2.0 and personally I didn't like it. If it had a 2.3 in it and twin scroll - I could see that being fun.
my setup is just fun for dd and the style i driving - not sure if I ever have the desire or need 700whp
anyways just my two cents
Not really sure why anyone suggest not going with anything smaller than a 35R.... Sure I don't have a AMS 700 whp car or a buschur 600 whp car
I do have one of the best daily driver setup's I feel with power left on the table...
2.3 liter 50 trim making 505 whp and 470 torque
I have a bit of power left on the table as well -
power mods I can switch too:
Race head
Cop ignition
bigger cams
E85
I could be wrong but for someone who dd the car and maybe drags 10 times a year - I am competitive enough on the strip with my friends and have awesome spool and I have to believe that making the switches above, I am guess I should net 50whp
I drove a 35R car on a 2.0 and personally I didn't like it. If it had a 2.3 in it and twin scroll - I could see that being fun.
my setup is just fun for dd and the style i driving - not sure if I ever have the desire or need 700whp
anyways just my two cents
I do have one of the best daily driver setup's I feel with power left on the table...
2.3 liter 50 trim making 505 whp and 470 torque
I have a bit of power left on the table as well -
power mods I can switch too:
Race head
Cop ignition
bigger cams
E85
I could be wrong but for someone who dd the car and maybe drags 10 times a year - I am competitive enough on the strip with my friends and have awesome spool and I have to believe that making the switches above, I am guess I should net 50whp
I drove a 35R car on a 2.0 and personally I didn't like it. If it had a 2.3 in it and twin scroll - I could see that being fun.
my setup is just fun for dd and the style i driving - not sure if I ever have the desire or need 700whp
anyways just my two cents
don't forget the extended rev range you pick up with a 6262 compared to a red. You can rev to 9k+ where the Red will be nosing over just past 7k. The power band is just as many RPMs, but you'll make more power.
keeping RPM low is a good thing.
engine lasts longer.
easier to stay in meat of powerband.
far more enjoyable to drive.
lots of cluthces shift well at 8000. and only one shifts well at 9500. (tilton carbon/carbon)
If for example we set a boost limit, let's say 30psi which is doable on straight pump, I don't think that any of the stock frame turbos can reach such high power levels...
If someone wants mega power all the way to the redline, then go big
if someone can settle at 450-500 whp pump then go with a stock frame turbo
but remember, a stock frame turbo will never reach the power levels of a good billet turbo...
Now real street performance. Without having the optimum setup and still in the stock itake manifold, stock throttle body, unported head my car on the FS365 sees:
20psi at around 5050-5100rpm and it pulls all the way to 9000rpm.
You have to think what you want to do with the car. Street driving? Highway pulls, road racing? Drag racing? That's how you should choose your turbo...
Below a basic graph of the three turbos that had/have on my car... I mostly drag race...
two 3rd gear pulls on pump. The low one the car was running low 10s afrs. The high one ran better afrs and a bit more boost...
is there lag? Sure! But the top end makes up for the lost time. And of course people, you all know how to downshift, right?
If someone wants mega power all the way to the redline, then go big
if someone can settle at 450-500 whp pump then go with a stock frame turbo
but remember, a stock frame turbo will never reach the power levels of a good billet turbo...
Now real street performance. Without having the optimum setup and still in the stock itake manifold, stock throttle body, unported head my car on the FS365 sees:
20psi at around 5050-5100rpm and it pulls all the way to 9000rpm.
You have to think what you want to do with the car. Street driving? Highway pulls, road racing? Drag racing? That's how you should choose your turbo...
Below a basic graph of the three turbos that had/have on my car... I mostly drag race...
two 3rd gear pulls on pump. The low one the car was running low 10s afrs. The high one ran better afrs and a bit more boost...
is there lag? Sure! But the top end makes up for the lost time. And of course people, you all know how to downshift, right?
Engine life is directly proportional to the amount of fuel you put through it.
Easier to stay in the meat of the powerband? You have a gear box and a lever right? Find the right gear.
Far less enjoyable when you're getting walked by everything under the sun. Enjoyable to you is a personal opinion... yet you're stating it as a fact.
Exedy Triples, Quartermasters, and Tilton's all shift well at 9k+
What clutch besides those three do you have that holds 550whp and can take a 1.6 60'?
Keeping RPMS low is good for fuel efficiency, cheap valvetrain, and hauling 80k pounds... not for performance. If you like lugging a car around go buy a diesel jetta.
Last edited by R/TErnie; Jan 5, 2010 at 07:40 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Deerfield Beach, FLorida
I have been following this thread and find it funny. I have a 6262 .82 AR BUT with a 2.3. this is my one and only DD. it ONLY runs on pump gas, yes it has lag and yes its hella fun to drive! just IMO i feel lag isnt bad at all. everybody who races around NEVER starts at 3k RPM, lol. your gonna have to downshift anyways!! a factor that i would look at is your availability of E85. if its avail. I would just go with the red/black. the 6262 is super fun up top and you will easily meet your goals. I for one cannot stand even the though of meth. its honestly for the birds 
. my biggest issue when building my car was that after 6 months will the red be enough?? ive owned 3 BT cars. everytime i do it, i end up getting the next bigger turbo and ive never been unsatisfied! cruising around town with "lag" gives me sweet gas mileage, lol. but if you live in an area with a lot of hills, well the 6262 might not be for you. think about money and all the other parts youll have to but when going BT....your going to have a lot of deciding factors. write them all down, from all of the replies in this thread. best of luck with the decision.
. my biggest issue when building my car was that after 6 months will the red be enough?? ive owned 3 BT cars. everytime i do it, i end up getting the next bigger turbo and ive never been unsatisfied! cruising around town with "lag" gives me sweet gas mileage, lol. but if you live in an area with a lot of hills, well the 6262 might not be for you. think about money and all the other parts youll have to but when going BT....your going to have a lot of deciding factors. write them all down, from all of the replies in this thread. best of luck with the decision.
I really don't think the lag is bad on this turbo. I DD a 6265 1.06AR, granted, it's a twin scroll, but I'm getting full boost on the stock block at 4600. I'd say I think this is an excellent turbo to DD.
Newbie
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Witness Protection
someone help!!!
That's impressive with that spool it should get up and go and you said stock 2.0 block ?
the 6262 isnt any better than the 3586, some would say its a downgrade. if you plan on running it at high boost a lot, get the 4088R. its the most durable.
