Precision Turbo 6262 daily driver???
Standalone EMS
Street Car mostly with some Drag Racing
At the moment its a toss up with the HTA3582R, HTA3586R, Full Race Twinscroll 35r, or AMS GT850R
With what we're doing now with the factory ECU, I would forget a standalone you don't really need and apply those funds toward a twinscoll setup.
As for which turbo, again, that depends upon your realistic power target and available fuel. I'm not convinced that an HTA3586R is better that the 82R unless one really needs more than 700whp.
As for which turbo, again, that depends upon your realistic power target and available fuel. I'm not convinced that an HTA3586R is better that the 82R unless one really needs more than 700whp.
If youre going mostly street, a Full Race twin scroll should be a real pleaser. If you want to save money, go with an undivided manifold and something with a billet compressor to help spool.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 25
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From: PA
Ignorance is bliss I guess. "lag is over rated" really riles my up. In reality lag is the most devastating thing to an enjoyable street car set up. Those who say lag is tolerable have not the experience of driving the same power level without the lag.
My advice would be you should always choose the smallest turbo to support your power goals. a 6262 is but fuuk laggy for a 500-550 whp setup. A red turbo would be 100 times more fun with 1000rpm faster spool. You will have to run a meth kit to get it there. But it is easily capable of 525whp.
You also seem to have gold taste with silver budget. It is not wise to make 525whp on the stock block. just wont last very long. 450whp is a smart recommendation for maximum safe power on stock internals. Sure there will be those who have run 550+ on stock internals with some good success. But for every one of those there are ten who have blown their engine trying.
you dont need fuel rail upgrade. complete waste. regulator not needed either. better to spend money elsewhere. the DNP manifold is also hurting you. there is torque loss with that manifold with no significant HP gain.
My advice would be you should always choose the smallest turbo to support your power goals. a 6262 is but fuuk laggy for a 500-550 whp setup. A red turbo would be 100 times more fun with 1000rpm faster spool. You will have to run a meth kit to get it there. But it is easily capable of 525whp.
You also seem to have gold taste with silver budget. It is not wise to make 525whp on the stock block. just wont last very long. 450whp is a smart recommendation for maximum safe power on stock internals. Sure there will be those who have run 550+ on stock internals with some good success. But for every one of those there are ten who have blown their engine trying.
you dont need fuel rail upgrade. complete waste. regulator not needed either. better to spend money elsewhere. the DNP manifold is also hurting you. there is torque loss with that manifold with no significant HP gain.
Ok so it looks like a red turbo might be the best pick for what i am trying to accomplish and i do like staying safe at 450HP, but what i read about the this turbo was If you do not plan on running 25psi or more, the FP Green would be a better match for your setup, but if you plan on pushing the limits past 25psi this is the turbo for you. (i am now runnig 24psi on stock turbo and block)
so with this said would it be safe running more then 25psi on stock block. and what about running the meath kit, would this be safe at such a high boost on a stock block to meet that 500hp goal?
you also said the DNP header would be a bad pick, which header would be best for the red if any?
Thanks for everybodys replies this is helping me make the right choices and maybe save a little money.
I personally like the 62/62 on the street
We have two evos making 700 on pump and meth highhats 2.0 L and andother member with 2.3. I can say without a doubt the 2.3L you wont need a smaller turbo unless you are doing auto cross.
The great advantage on the 62.62 from precision is the price - I sell them under $1,300 all said and done with dual ball bearings and a ported compressor cover (not drilled) and V band etc.
Another great turbo is the so called 62/82 which combines the 62 compressor with the slightly smaller garrett GT 35 r back turbine wheel and CHRA. This turbo hits a bit lower and harder in the low end but costs about $200 more becuase of the genuine garret CHRA.
We have also used the 62.62 on a STI - 660 on pump and meth at 29 psi and I run the FP HTA 86 on my STI and I made 680 on pump with meth.
The school is out on the 57 / 57 until I get my hands on one on the dyno but given the great results we have had with the 62.62 I think that one is the way to go - its a genuine 700 whp pump and meth turbo.
Al
We have two evos making 700 on pump and meth highhats 2.0 L and andother member with 2.3. I can say without a doubt the 2.3L you wont need a smaller turbo unless you are doing auto cross.
The great advantage on the 62.62 from precision is the price - I sell them under $1,300 all said and done with dual ball bearings and a ported compressor cover (not drilled) and V band etc.
Another great turbo is the so called 62/82 which combines the 62 compressor with the slightly smaller garrett GT 35 r back turbine wheel and CHRA. This turbo hits a bit lower and harder in the low end but costs about $200 more becuase of the genuine garret CHRA.
We have also used the 62.62 on a STI - 660 on pump and meth at 29 psi and I run the FP HTA 86 on my STI and I made 680 on pump with meth.
The school is out on the 57 / 57 until I get my hands on one on the dyno but given the great results we have had with the 62.62 I think that one is the way to go - its a genuine 700 whp pump and meth turbo.
Al
I wouldn't suggest embarking on a 500whp plan with a factory engine unless you have sufficient discretionary funds available to purchase+install a complete replacement shortblock. There are those who dare to test the limitations of the factory shortblock, but they are playing Russian Roulette. Sooner or later, they get the bullet. When they do, they are typically out of a rebuildable block, crank, and occasionally a head. With many of these VIII and IX engines getting up in mileage, they will become more likely to fail as age and wear will begin to take their toll.
With what we're doing now with the factory ECU, I would forget a standalone you don't really need and apply those funds toward a twinscoll setup.
As for which turbo, again, that depends upon your realistic power target and available fuel. I'm not convinced that an HTA3586R is better that the 82R unless one really needs more than 700whp.
As for which turbo, again, that depends upon your realistic power target and available fuel. I'm not convinced that an HTA3586R is better that the 82R unless one really needs more than 700whp.
You've probably been entertained with all this turbo talk, but . . .
I wouldn't suggest embarking on a 500whp plan with a factory engine unless you have sufficient discretionary funds available to purchase+install a complete replacement shortblock. There are those who dare to test the limitations of the factory shortblock, but they are playing Russian Roulette. Sooner or later, they get the bullet. When they do, they are typically out of a rebuildable block, crank, and occasionally a head. With many of these VIII and IX engines getting up in mileage, they will become more likely to fail as age and wear will begin to take their toll.
I wouldn't suggest embarking on a 500whp plan with a factory engine unless you have sufficient discretionary funds available to purchase+install a complete replacement shortblock. There are those who dare to test the limitations of the factory shortblock, but they are playing Russian Roulette. Sooner or later, they get the bullet. When they do, they are typically out of a rebuildable block, crank, and occasionally a head. With many of these VIII and IX engines getting up in mileage, they will become more likely to fail as age and wear will begin to take their toll.
Its interesting that you mention this and I would really like to highlight this and ask members to really think about "what IF?"
I am sure that most Harley Salesguys don't ask you what your plans are of you get T boned by a drunk driver who went through a stop sign? Anyone who rides a bike needs to ask themselves if its worth the risk of winding up as an invalid. Don't ask me about my "meeting my maker" moment on my old Harley but lets just say that my life will never be the same and my way of looking at things was forever changed.
I have so many customers who seem to focus on only POWER RESULTS. I try to explain to all of them about margin of saftey and room for error if you get a bad tank of gas.
The reality is that for the most part stock Evo engines can take 500 whp with the right supporting mods and last a real long time with no problems. With that kind of power level there is not a lot of saftey margin left and one bad tank of gas and you can split a piston in half or break a rod in half.
For those customers who seek to explore the area of 500 or more whp on the stock rods and pistons they should be asking themselves what they would do if it blows up and how they would fix it and also the professional tuner should be asking them at the same time the same questions and suggesting to leave things on the safe side.
This is a video of the process I take my custmers through when they are starting to make big power
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODLCV...e=channel_page
In that case the customer was making some really good pump and meth power on the stock turbo with a lot of TQ. I suggested we take a few whp off the table for a healthy margin of saftey.
Just becuase the car is tuned well on a given day and with a given set of climatic conditions does not mean it will maintain the exact same state of tune in varying climates, altitudes, grades, and expecially when racing and with varying fuel quality.
At the end of the day when in doubt its a lot cheaper to just slide in a set of drop in pistons and rods - in this case and ounce of prevention can save you a block - head and crank all of which ueually gets destroyed when you toss a rod,
Al
Last edited by DynoFlash; Jan 24, 2009 at 05:03 PM.
Al and Ted bring up good points a lot of times that are passed over on this board in the quest for XXXwhp. Make it strong, make it safe, make it reliable THEN make it fast. I'm done with stock frame turbos now, and want to move onto something bigger. Even if I go with a dinky 50 trim or 30R, I'm still gonna spend my money making sure when I crank up the power, nothing goes BOOM, cause things tend to go boom always at the wrong time. Heck a local guy here blew a hole in his block with a GREEN! Now his car is going to be down for months because he just wasn't financially ready to buy a new block, new rods, new pistons......
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I personally like the 62/62 on the street
We have two evos making 700 on pump and meth highhats 2.0 L and andother member with 2.3. I can say without a doubt the 2.3L you wont need a smaller turbo unless you are doing auto cross.
The great advantage on the 62.62 from precision is the price - I sell them under $1,300 all said and done with dual ball bearings and a ported compressor cover (not drilled) and V band etc.
Another great turbo is the so called 62/82 which combines the 62 compressor with the slightly smaller garrett GT 35 r back turbine wheel and CHRA. This turbo hits a bit lower and harder in the low end but costs about $200 more becuase of the genuine garret CHRA.
We have also used the 62.62 on a STI - 660 on pump and meth at 29 psi and I run the FP HTA 86 on my STI and I made 680 on pump with meth.
The school is out on the 57 / 57 until I get my hands on one on the dyno but given the great results we have had with the 62.62 I think that one is the way to go - its a genuine 700 whp pump and meth turbo.
Al
We have two evos making 700 on pump and meth highhats 2.0 L and andother member with 2.3. I can say without a doubt the 2.3L you wont need a smaller turbo unless you are doing auto cross.
The great advantage on the 62.62 from precision is the price - I sell them under $1,300 all said and done with dual ball bearings and a ported compressor cover (not drilled) and V band etc.
Another great turbo is the so called 62/82 which combines the 62 compressor with the slightly smaller garrett GT 35 r back turbine wheel and CHRA. This turbo hits a bit lower and harder in the low end but costs about $200 more becuase of the genuine garret CHRA.
We have also used the 62.62 on a STI - 660 on pump and meth at 29 psi and I run the FP HTA 86 on my STI and I made 680 on pump with meth.
The school is out on the 57 / 57 until I get my hands on one on the dyno but given the great results we have had with the 62.62 I think that one is the way to go - its a genuine 700 whp pump and meth turbo.
Al
normal garrett GT35r aka 3582.
FP modified versions 3582HTA and 3586HTA
and the PT version 62/82
Then theres the PT 62/62 which has nothing in common with a garrett 3582, yeah?
What the hell is the FS635? i assume its the PT 62/82? same thing as the 850r essentially?
