Just a heads up for people interested in getting these but are weary of bypassing the resistor box... I did a how to click me to see the how to

 

 

I got an update from 0xDEAD this weekend - he put the spare ecu in his car that did not start any better in my car than my original ecu and his car still started 100% fine....its just baffling.

I have a friend who is running RC1000's that I installed in his car and did the tuning on - the car starts perfect every time...so I asked him if he would be willing to swap for a day and he agreed, I am curious to see if the starting problem occurs in his car like it does mine. Just need to find the time w/ holidays coming up.

 

I'm shipping out some different lower isolators that are thicker to Fast Freddie. He or RTErnie are going to test them and see if it makes a difference. It will provide a thicker insulation between the manifold and the injector. If it is an issue with the temperature of the fuel in the injector, it may make a difference.

 

wonderful.....sent u a pm, thanks for sticking through this

 

Thanks Tony.

I have yet to get that skunk2 rail. I have hold out on spending money until I finish a few manifolds!

 

One more car experiencing difficult hot starts on these injectors. It is to the point that if I don't open the throttle a decent amount, it won't even try to fire for 6-8 seconds. Once it fires, it will run rough for several seconds unless I blip the throttle.

My car will have problems after just a couple minutes of sitting too. Doesn't need 20 minutes like some of you. If I shut the car off and fire it back up, it will start right away. Let it sit 5 minutes or more and it won't start for **** for several hours. Cold starts fire on the first crank, it was like 15 degrees this morning and it fired up and idled on the first revolution with no throttle at all.

That said, I do believe there is the possibility of it just being tuning though as my car isn't particularly well tunned at the moment and it is probably proportionally worse on my car because of this.

 

if you have to open the throttle that implies too rich and might be tune-able.


with the colder weather, are you guys finding your car is able to warm start easier?

As I have said before, I am one of the lucky ones whose car starts easily fairly constantly.
But then the pacific northwest isn't known for heat spells.

 

Do you still have the fuel pressure solenoid hooked up?

 

No fuel pressure solenoid. Just a dedicated line to the FPR from the manifold.

I agree, it seems rich on cranking and I think I should be able to tune (most) of it out. It's pretty bad though and exhibits the same behavior mentioned.

Less then 5 minutes of sitting, instant start. 10 minutes -> ~7 hours and it takes about 10 seconds of cranking.

 

FYI,
I run the magnus intake manifold and I have their phenolic heat spacer...so my car technically should allow the injectors to run cooler.

 

Why does everyone take the fuel pressure solenoid off the car? I don't get it. You should try putting it back on and see if it helps.

 

Mine has always been on the car and fully functional.

 

I took it off to reduce clutter in the engine bay and the car is on a diet. (no, I don't care if anybody feels the weight of the solenoid is insignificant)

It's not that big of a deal to me if it takes a few extra cranks if it's just "the nature of the beast." But if it's something that can be fixed in parameter tuning, I'll pursue it.

I'm not necessarily *****ing even, just saying "hey, one more data point."

 

Engines run a long time when they have oil pressure. There is no oil pressure during cranking. It is well documented starting the engine is responsible for 50% of an engines service life. add high compression and this is more than just the nature of the beast that can be lived with. piston scuffing and bearing wear is an issue here.