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Are the evo 9 stock headstuds safe to 30 psi used with an fp red?

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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:00 PM
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dipsetinallday's Avatar
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Are the evo 9 stock headstuds safe to 30 psi used with an fp red?

Are the evo 9 stock headstuds safe to 30 psi used with an fp red?
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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Here is my take.

The stock headstuds have been proven numerous times to hold as much as the stock block will allow. If you are planning on doing ARPs do not listen to people and half *** it by doing them 1by1 with the head on the car. I would trust the factory seal over the 1by1 method. So in reality it comes down to do you want to pull the head or not?

I ran my car at 32psi+ on the stockers and had no issues, with the level of power you will be seeing more than likely the only possible cause of the head "lifting" would be do to a bad tune causing detonation.

So in short. Stick with the stock studs unless you want to pull the head. Spend the money to get a professional tune and enjoy your car.


Kent
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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for a DD type setup no. not at all. your asking for some trouble. head studs are less then 100 bucks get them and put them in. then run 30psi. if your going red dont cheep out of the important parts
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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First of all, EVOs have stock bolts, not studs. Second, I wouldn't ever do the 1 by 1 method, the only way I'd ever do head studs is if the head was coming off the car. Third, most DSMers I know have figured out long ago that regular ARPs don't work any better than stock bolts, which have been run to 30+psi all day long.

Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:06 PM
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actually if you do the 1 x 1 the right way you wont have issues. i my self have 40+k on the 1 x 1. i have done many installs 1 x 1 with no issues. if you do it right you wont have any issues. yes pulling the head is the best way. but if you got some brains and experience the 1 x 1 is just as good.


and dont tell me you did it right and had issues be cause then you clearly did it wrong. have a nice day.

p.s. stock evo head bolts SUCK.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CULVIIIER
Here is my take.

The stock headstuds have been proven numerous times to hold as much as the stock block will allow. If you are planning on doing ARPs do not listen to people and half *** it by doing them 1by1 with the head on the car. I would trust the factory seal over the 1by1 method. So in reality it comes down to do you want to pull the head or not?

I ran my car at 32psi+ on the stockers and had no issues, with the level of power you will be seeing more than likely the only possible cause of the head "lifting" would be do to a bad tune causing detonation.

So in short. Stick with the stock studs unless you want to pull the head. Spend the money to get a professional tune and enjoy your car.


Kent
I dont agree much with what you say. regarding the one by one method and needing to pull the head. Its absurd to say you need to pull the head. It is completely okay to re-torque cylinder studs at anytime in an engines life. Loosening the head studs does nothing to hurt the seal of head gasket. To say it does suggests a large misunderstanding of how an engine works. The gasket seal is in affect compromised every time you run your engine. cast iron and aluminum have different expansion rates. that's why your steel gasket is multi-layered. it allows the gasket to be flexible between the layers.

Regarding how much torque stock studs handle. Its not a psi issue. You should be asking how much torque they handle. peak torque is where the engine will have peak cylinder pressure. I have pushed the stock studs to 511 torque with no lifting. The answer to the question is they can hold the torque a red makes on a good tune. but with any small amount of detonation the stock studs will likely lift. aftermarket studs are a wise choice.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve93Talon
First of all, EVOs have stock bolts, not studs. Second, I wouldn't ever do the 1 by 1 method, the only way I'd ever do head studs is if the head was coming off the car. Third, most DSMers I know have figured out long ago that regular ARPs don't work any better than stock bolts, which have been run to 30+psi all day long.

Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
That statement applies to DSM 6-bolt bolts which are much beefier than 7-bolt/evo version. ARPs for 7 bolt are good bit better than stock bolts.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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i ran 30psi on my stock turbo it ran fine for a few or hundred miles but then i found out my oil and antifreeze were mixing due to stock head studs i would think??? but my evo is being worked on and hope it all works out wit arp studs and all....
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:53 PM
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OP listen up. Head studs are proven to out perform head bolts. The arp kit on awd motorsports site lists for $94.99. I've read on here people getting it done for around 70 bucks. There is only one question you really need to ask. Is the added insurance of not lifting a head worth $170.00 to you?
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
actually if you do the 1 x 1 the right way you wont have issues. i my self have 40+k on the 1 x 1. i have done many installs 1 x 1 with no issues. if you do it right you wont have any issues. yes pulling the head is the best way. but if you got some brains and experience the 1 x 1 is just as good.


and dont tell me you did it right and had issues be cause then you clearly did it wrong. have a nice day.

p.s. stock evo head bolts SUCK.
I agree. My brother cheaped out when he got his cams done and didnt get headstuds. After a little while running only 23psi he blew the headgasket and eventually warped the head. Headstuds are only 100 dollars.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 12:28 AM
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I think anything pass 25psi is pushing it on stock head studs.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve93Talon
First of all, EVOs have stock bolts, not studs. Second, I wouldn't ever do the 1 by 1 method, the only way I'd ever do head studs is if the head was coming off the car. Third, most DSMers I know have figured out long ago that regular ARPs don't work any better than stock bolts, which have been run to 30+psi all day long.

Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
This, thank you for proving once again that know how and experience prevail. Dsmer's ftw.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 04:00 AM
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i started pushing coolant at 28psi...get headstuds...
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by WickedIXMR
I agree. My brother cheaped out when he got his cams done and didnt get headstuds. After a little while running only 23psi he blew the headgasket and eventually warped the head. Headstuds are only 100 dollars.
i would not blame that failure on headstuds. My guess is there was something else a rye with his situation.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
That statement applies to DSM 6-bolt bolts which are much beefier than 7-bolt/evo version. ARPs for 7 bolt are good bit better than stock bolts.
Actually, I ran 30psi all day long on my '93 7 bolt DSM.
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