Are the evo 9 stock headstuds safe to 30 psi used with an fp red?
Here is my take.
The stock headstuds have been proven numerous times to hold as much as the stock block will allow. If you are planning on doing ARPs do not listen to people and half *** it by doing them 1by1 with the head on the car. I would trust the factory seal over the 1by1 method. So in reality it comes down to do you want to pull the head or not?
I ran my car at 32psi+ on the stockers and had no issues, with the level of power you will be seeing more than likely the only possible cause of the head "lifting" would be do to a bad tune causing detonation.
So in short. Stick with the stock studs unless you want to pull the head. Spend the money to get a professional tune and enjoy your car.
Kent
The stock headstuds have been proven numerous times to hold as much as the stock block will allow. If you are planning on doing ARPs do not listen to people and half *** it by doing them 1by1 with the head on the car. I would trust the factory seal over the 1by1 method. So in reality it comes down to do you want to pull the head or not?
I ran my car at 32psi+ on the stockers and had no issues, with the level of power you will be seeing more than likely the only possible cause of the head "lifting" would be do to a bad tune causing detonation.
So in short. Stick with the stock studs unless you want to pull the head. Spend the money to get a professional tune and enjoy your car.
Kent
for a DD type setup no. not at all. your asking for some trouble. head studs are less then 100 bucks get them and put them in. then run 30psi. if your going red dont cheep out of the important parts
First of all, EVOs have stock bolts, not studs. Second, I wouldn't ever do the 1 by 1 method, the only way I'd ever do head studs is if the head was coming off the car. Third, most DSMers I know have figured out long ago that regular ARPs don't work any better than stock bolts, which have been run to 30+psi all day long.
Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
actually if you do the 1 x 1 the right way you wont have issues. i my self have 40+k on the 1 x 1. i have done many installs 1 x 1 with no issues. if you do it right you wont have any issues. yes pulling the head is the best way. but if you got some brains and experience the 1 x 1 is just as good.
and dont tell me you did it right and had issues be cause then you clearly did it wrong. have a nice day.
p.s. stock evo head bolts SUCK.
and dont tell me you did it right and had issues be cause then you clearly did it wrong. have a nice day.
p.s. stock evo head bolts SUCK.
Here is my take.
The stock headstuds have been proven numerous times to hold as much as the stock block will allow. If you are planning on doing ARPs do not listen to people and half *** it by doing them 1by1 with the head on the car. I would trust the factory seal over the 1by1 method. So in reality it comes down to do you want to pull the head or not?
I ran my car at 32psi+ on the stockers and had no issues, with the level of power you will be seeing more than likely the only possible cause of the head "lifting" would be do to a bad tune causing detonation.
So in short. Stick with the stock studs unless you want to pull the head. Spend the money to get a professional tune and enjoy your car.
Kent
The stock headstuds have been proven numerous times to hold as much as the stock block will allow. If you are planning on doing ARPs do not listen to people and half *** it by doing them 1by1 with the head on the car. I would trust the factory seal over the 1by1 method. So in reality it comes down to do you want to pull the head or not?
I ran my car at 32psi+ on the stockers and had no issues, with the level of power you will be seeing more than likely the only possible cause of the head "lifting" would be do to a bad tune causing detonation.
So in short. Stick with the stock studs unless you want to pull the head. Spend the money to get a professional tune and enjoy your car.
Kent
Regarding how much torque stock studs handle. Its not a psi issue. You should be asking how much torque they handle. peak torque is where the engine will have peak cylinder pressure. I have pushed the stock studs to 511 torque with no lifting. The answer to the question is they can hold the torque a red makes on a good tune. but with any small amount of detonation the stock studs will likely lift. aftermarket studs are a wise choice.
First of all, EVOs have stock bolts, not studs. Second, I wouldn't ever do the 1 by 1 method, the only way I'd ever do head studs is if the head was coming off the car. Third, most DSMers I know have figured out long ago that regular ARPs don't work any better than stock bolts, which have been run to 30+psi all day long.
Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
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i ran 30psi on my stock turbo it ran fine for a few or hundred miles but then i found out my oil and antifreeze were mixing due to stock head studs i would think??? but my evo is being worked on and hope it all works out wit arp studs and all....
OP listen up. Head studs are proven to out perform head bolts. The arp kit on awd motorsports site lists for $94.99. I've read on here people getting it done for around 70 bucks. There is only one question you really need to ask. Is the added insurance of not lifting a head worth $170.00 to you?
actually if you do the 1 x 1 the right way you wont have issues. i my self have 40+k on the 1 x 1. i have done many installs 1 x 1 with no issues. if you do it right you wont have any issues. yes pulling the head is the best way. but if you got some brains and experience the 1 x 1 is just as good.
and dont tell me you did it right and had issues be cause then you clearly did it wrong. have a nice day.
p.s. stock evo head bolts SUCK.
and dont tell me you did it right and had issues be cause then you clearly did it wrong. have a nice day.
p.s. stock evo head bolts SUCK.
First of all, EVOs have stock bolts, not studs. Second, I wouldn't ever do the 1 by 1 method, the only way I'd ever do head studs is if the head was coming off the car. Third, most DSMers I know have figured out long ago that regular ARPs don't work any better than stock bolts, which have been run to 30+psi all day long.
Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
Run it until you blow a head gasket (which probably won't happen if it's tuned correctly), then pull the head (which you'd have to do anyway to correctly install studs) and put some L19s in with a fresh gasket to make it worthwhile.
i would not blame that failure on headstuds. My guess is there was something else a rye with his situation.


