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Are the evo 9 stock headstuds safe to 30 psi used with an fp red?

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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #46  
dmoevo's Avatar
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30 psi for over 4K miles on E85, so far no problem... i bought headstuds but they are sitting in my room.
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 10:51 AM
  #47  
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For short time I think they will just fine but latter they may become a problem, really a little bit of work a 175.00 for studs and new Head Gasket and your good to go for along time. Listen to this, better to do something little now and not have to replace a motor or something later, getting the head resurfaced is like 125.00 getting it cleaned is like another 50.00 then getting new bolts and HG, is around 175.00 so now you spend around 400.00, its not very hard to figure out what is best but you decide
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 11:07 AM
  #48  
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That guy Emery@STM... that went 10.0 or 10.1 on a stock block. Did he have head studs? Probably did but just checking.
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 01:33 PM
  #49  
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Stronger headstuds are needed for very high cyl pressures and temperatures achieved with extended knocking, but so are forged parts. A tank of bad gas in a stock evo can create much higher cyl pressures than a 500whp evo. If your not planning on pushing detonation limit, why screw up something thats working?
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 01:43 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004
actually if you do the 1 x 1 the right way you wont have issues. i my self have 40+k on the 1 x 1. i have done many installs 1 x 1 with no issues. if you do it right you wont have any issues. yes pulling the head is the best way. but if you got some brains and experience the 1 x 1 is just as good.


and dont tell me you did it right and had issues be cause then you clearly did it wrong. have a nice day.

p.s. stock evo head bolts SUCK.
+1 My studs were done 1 by 1, I burnt three pistons, and broke wrist pin, the head gasket still held pressure rock solid 30psi.
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 01:54 PM
  #51  
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like the op said, if hes gona run nomore than 26psi on the red than hell be ok on stock bolts.....but anymore boost and ull need studs
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 11:47 PM
  #52  
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From: Spec Ops
Originally Posted by ace75
vboy are all your headstuds done 1x1 method? I'm having trouble understanding how or why 1x1 would be a problem.
we done 1X1 back in 2004. None of those car have issues. Now this day i do 2x2 method. Also the main thing is how you put int he studs. The instruction say hand tight, but for me i tight them down the the right level so that when i torque the bolt and washer down, so it shows about 3-4 threads.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 07:22 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by justa4banger
like the op said, if hes gona run nomore than 26psi on the red than hell be ok on stock bolts.....but anymore boost and ull need studs

35r, 32 psi, 500+ whp, 78,000 miles (18,000 with 500+whp), track days, countless launches, spirited driving, and stock studs that work just fine. and i can list off a bunch of cars like mine with stock studs.

so no, you don't "need" arp studs.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:25 AM
  #54  
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We ran ARP's in our car using the 1by 1 method and had no problems. Our stock motor saw 40psi and the only issue we were having was valve float...


-Em
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 07:47 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by KevinD
35r, 32 psi, 500+ whp, 78,000 miles (18,000 with 500+whp), track days, countless launches, spirited driving, and stock studs that work just fine. and i can list off a bunch of cars like mine with stock studs.

so no, you don't "need" arp studs.
Thanks for this info!
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