1x1 method is the worst method invented because you should NEVER do one head stud at the time due to the fact that your head is going to lift eventually and i have seen it happen more than twice.

To the orignal OP what i would personally do is take a whole day to work on your car and remove the head, put a new head gasket, new head bolts, then bolt everything together. Honestly this job should take a good eight hours with taking brakes, sipin on heineken and eatin pizza

 

what if you just take of your timing belt and take off all the bolts and thenput studs on with out actually removing the head... any particular reason why this wouldn't work?

 

No. The minute you relieve the pressure from the bolts oil and antifreeze will contaminate the seal. The reason the 1x1 approach sometimes works it the seal isn't compromised (50% chance that it is).

If you are going through all the trouble to remove the TB you might as well do it the right way with a new head gasket.

 

better to use cosworth gasket, but stock is also OK

 

I would like to her from someone who has actually lifted a head and what setup they are running. I have been running over 30 psi for over 15k miles and no problems. people just say over x hp and over y amt. of psi you need studs WHY?. not trying to bash anyone in so much as read about actual facts based on REAL experience. IMO a lot of money is spent on so-called insurance. If it makes you feel better I guess it's worth it.

Money not spent on studs and other parts to do it right can be saved for doing the job during major upgrades or IF something happens.

 

Facts > opinions/what if's

 

head lifting has nothing to do with psi, or hp..
the real issue with headlift is CYLINDER PRESSURE.

this is why some people are ok and some aren't- obviously at higher power levels your will increase heat and energy in the cylinder- the pressure exerted, which is a factor of a/f and timing are what causes a head to lift. knock is a big determination of the safety of the head seal- since it produces such a high amount of pressure in the cylinder.

 

Thanks for the good info! Like he said it's cylinder pressure as well as knock that cause the head to lift!

 

i agree 100%

 

I am going to do the arp studs with a new head gasket at the time of my timing belt and cams with adjustable cam gears and then a prepare for a new turbo if I can. Seems to me getting alot done in that span when it all has to be done anyway makes more sense than anything. I would never do the 1x1 method either, just my opinion of course.

 

Should change head studs. Got them done on my eight via 1x1 method. Still running great after around 15 thousand miles.

 

definatly ARP, but if for only a couple of time sock can hold 30PSI

 

i recently ordered studs. Didnt want to risk anything!

 

ive never heard of anyone stretching stock head studs, it's typically the stock rods that give first.

ive only ever heard of built blocks lifting the head even with ARP bolts since the rods are so strong.

ive been on the 1x1 method since 2007.

 

why would you risk it