Synapse BOV
C to boost only,
A + B to vaccum from intake mani.
I had just A (I think) and I hade major flutter everytime, however I noticed one of the ports was loose so maybe that was causing the flutter and not the setup. I will actually go disconnect one take it for a drive, then swap it on the street and drive again.
But my BOV definitely does not sound almost anything like my stock BOV. It barely sounds like a swoosh at all, it sounds like a crack almost, but not quite as sharp as a crack. Maybe as like a nutcracker breaking a nut. Its quite hard to describe, but definitely not just a SWOOSH of air.
A + B to vaccum from intake mani.
I had just A (I think) and I hade major flutter everytime, however I noticed one of the ports was loose so maybe that was causing the flutter and not the setup. I will actually go disconnect one take it for a drive, then swap it on the street and drive again.
But my BOV definitely does not sound almost anything like my stock BOV. It barely sounds like a swoosh at all, it sounds like a crack almost, but not quite as sharp as a crack. Maybe as like a nutcracker breaking a nut. Its quite hard to describe, but definitely not just a SWOOSH of air.
Just went out to test and looks like just having C to boost and B to intake mani and A vented has worked best for me but I still get flutter basically whenever I am not boosting heavy. For the first time though I got a much more normal sound more like a swoosh but only when I was like over 12PSI. I guess I didnt realize but I think I was actually getting some flutter on almost every shift before.
Can a leak in the connection to my intake from my BOV cause flutter? I have a wierd custom setup with a steel 90deg elbow and maybe that setup is leaking and causing problems?
Feedback would be GREATLY appreciated.
Can a leak in the connection to my intake from my BOV cause flutter? I have a wierd custom setup with a steel 90deg elbow and maybe that setup is leaking and causing problems?
Feedback would be GREATLY appreciated.
contact (Synapse) Pete and let him know, I'm sure he will work something out with you (guys), dude is cool and willing to help! I wouldnt recommend drilling the chamber out until you actually seen how it's done. Like I said earlier in this thread, they did mine in a matter of minutes so it can't be that hard and get them back out to their customers!
With anybody with the older normal Synapse have any success with port C besides to the wastegate?
I am getting flutter with C to wastegate and all 3 sets up of Just port A just port B and both port A and B. I guess next is to try and do Port A with B blocked and port B with A blocked. How would you go about blocking the port? Buying a rubber piece to go onto it?
If I cant figure this out soon I will probably just sell it and buy a Forge RS.
I am getting flutter with C to wastegate and all 3 sets up of Just port A just port B and both port A and B. I guess next is to try and do Port A with B blocked and port B with A blocked. How would you go about blocking the port? Buying a rubber piece to go onto it?
If I cant figure this out soon I will probably just sell it and buy a Forge RS.
is anyone running a bigger than stock or stock appearing turbo having problems with the bov? I'm not currently experiencing any of these problems w/the HTA 3582r turbo kit that I have and just wondering...I have the older version as well
With anybody with the older normal Synapse have any success with port C besides to the wastegate?
I am getting flutter with C to wastegate and all 3 sets up of Just port A just port B and both port A and B. I guess next is to try and do Port A with B blocked and port B with A blocked. How would you go about blocking the port? Buying a rubber piece to go onto it?
If I cant figure this out soon I will probably just sell it and buy a Forge RS.
I am getting flutter with C to wastegate and all 3 sets up of Just port A just port B and both port A and B. I guess next is to try and do Port A with B blocked and port B with A blocked. How would you go about blocking the port? Buying a rubber piece to go onto it?
If I cant figure this out soon I will probably just sell it and buy a Forge RS.
With the Buschur LICP (Which I also just installed this week), the LICP takes the place of the "j-pipe" and it doesn't have a nipple like the factory j-pipe does. I just had a local shop drill/thread in a nipple for my LICP.
I also tried running just A and/or B just to see, and the car did not run well at all. It wanted to die at every stoplight.
I also tried running just A and/or B just to see, and the car did not run well at all. It wanted to die at every stoplight.








