I never had stock IC piping and never seen this pipe going into the LICP. What is it for? Why don't I have it on my car right now haha.

I'm praying A + B blocked or B + A blocked will work for me, might have to ditch the BOV if not. How would I go about blocking the port? I am not that experienced of a mechanic and don't wanna do something stupid.

 

did you play with the preload nut/screw at all? Try backing the screw out quite a bit...

 

before I changed turbo kits I tapped the LICP right after the turbo and put a nipple/barb fitting for C port...worked very well as the C port had a dedicated line w/no T's in it. I'm glad i'm not having problems like other people are having. Synapse has a tech forums you can register and post up any questions/problems..or call them.

 

Just got mine the other day from No Limit and it doesn't have the C port blocked off. This works great for me though, no flutter at all, I can't remember the evo driving this smooth.

 

How is yours setup?

 

I have not. How do I do this?

 

I have mine setup similar to evodude's.... http://evoempire.org/index.php/topic...89&#entry96189

I have stock like UICP (dejon), cut up some hoses and connected to the stock intake with an elbow

 

the nut is only used as a lock nut, you will need a allen wrench to loosen the preload screw on the spring.

- clockwise tightens
- counter clockwise loosens

I had about 5 threads showing when I received mine. The syncronic likes to be set soft according the Synapse, so back the screw out pretty far...

-GL

 

Mine was touching the end of the thread but very very loose. So I should slide it up more? Is this going to make a significant difference in anything? I don't understand enough about how exactly BOVs work.

And btw, doesnt that nut move around if its so loose? Slide up and down over time from all the shaking?

 

this is what mine looked like straight outta the box...

 

I really wonder what the improvement is of C blocked, it honestly makes no sense. I thought that was the whole point of the BOV haha.

Anyway, update.

So I drove out and tested different preloads, maybe got out of my car like 8-10 times. I found some REALLY good sounding shifts at higher boost. However lower boost is better, but not great by any means. I however broke my Tee and have no more so I can't try A+B until I go get another one. So far best for me has been like 3.5-4 theads showing on the preload screw. It got really bad above like 6 threads I'm guessing, I didnt take a good look when I did it.

I will wait until I get a Tee and then try again and maybe go get a nipple made on my LICP but I don't really think that is too necessary.

 

I have tried all variations this valve has to offer and found that port B hooked up to the intake manifold and port C hook up to the nipple off of the compressor pipe worked best.

 

Do you get any flutter?

 

I wouldn't call it flutter. The valve did flutter on every other variation. The only downside I see in this valve is that it opens too easily which is where it bucks slightly. I can live with that compared to every other valve failing on my car.

 

Do you have a mini battery also?

I'm trying to figure out if you "really" need a mini batt to run it horizontally.