Bob, Thanks for taking the time to check out the Alisyn site and information, once again. I agree the website has something to be desired and is often time confusing to those who do not navigate it frequently. One should try to look under Alisyn, Automotive Lubricants to get rolling in the right direction. Usually, I just call Scott Stukenberg, the Aerospace Lubricants representative and he handles my order.

As for the 110 and not a 90 I'll have to ask him about that. I'm also not sure to the reason why you think that, please elaborate, and I'll get a straight answer for you, and anyone else who has an interest.

I thought I'd add this, which is an except from an email that was sent to me just the other day from Scott. It really shows how serious they are about what they do. I hope you'll see it in the light I do, and realize the potential it brings for a lot of us.


Alisyn fully synthetic <<0 weight oil was in every Honda IRL car in 2005 & 06 and according to HPD Alisyn oils are largely responsible for Chevy and Toyota getting out of the IRL, further Mercedes new F1 engine made more HP with Alisyn 0w-20 than any other oil, in both instances the companies don't need to make extra HP since Honda is now the only engine in the IRL and none has made as much HP as Mercedes so they do not need the advantages we can provide since they purchase our oils and others will not only give them oil, but pay them to use it.

FYI I have used Alisyn 0w-20 for 40,000 miles in my Evo.

 

5w30 mobil 1

 

Wal Mart sells Royal Purple 10W-30, lol

 

10w 30 i been runing it and no problems

 

I have maintained for the last 2 years on this site that a Premium Synthetic 20 wgt oil is all that is necessary in an EVO.

The early 10W-30 recommendations and later 5W-30 recommendations are due to the comapany having to use a CYA Approach as they know people will throw any crap oil in their car and when the oil shears, there will still be protection.

There is way too much of the antiquated thought that "Thicker is Better"

There are 600 HP EVO's right on this website that are using AMSOIL SSO 0W-30 and and RD-20 .... The 0W-30 just barely makes a 30 wgt at 10.3 cSt.

Now.... The gear lube I looked at, rated a 90 wgt, had a cSt that put it in the 110 range..

 

what is the high temp shear for the 0 20 w

 

Bob / others -- I am running methanol injection and ~29 psi peak boost tapering to ~22psi (stock turbo) on my setup...I have never had my oil analyzed, but am wondering if the Mobil 1 would have issues with the Methanol. Is the Amsoil designed to be used with e85 or Methanol injection ?

I guess I should have my oil analyzed .... TIA

 

I cannot speak for M-1 other than by Analysis, it no longer appears that the EP is now a Group III Based product.

I can tell you that according to AMSOIL and the Tech from the lab I use is that they are not seeing any of problems that were expected in an unknown situation.

I will recommend the AMSOIL RD Series as it has been manufactured to run with Gas, Alky and all Exotic Fuels.

It is the toughest oil you can buy today.

Bob

 

Thanks Bob.

 

The guy who built my Eclipse's engine swears by Joe Gibbs and I used it to break it in, but afterwards I went back to using Mobil 1 10-30 for it and my Evo.

 

I believe that castrol synthetic 10w 30 oil is the best to run in a turbo car.

 

Any proof to back this evidence up? Just wondering...

 

negative, sir

dont want to start an argument, but castrol is deff not the best for turbo cars that is very definitive

 

What about Silkolene ester/pao pro s and ester pro r oil?

Also what about their gear oils like Pro SRG 75 gear oil and Silktran SYN 5 and lsd oil BOA 90LS?

Here 's the link


http://www.silkoleneoil.com/

 

Scott responded after a few weeks of waiting for him to finish with the ISO 9001 paperwork. Sorry for the wait. I hope this answers the questions.

1-2% overall viscosity loss for shear.

90W should be in the 13.5-24 cSt range at 100C ours hits right @ 20 cSt, we just had it tested last week to be sure.
Oil (mineral or synthetic) does not mix with alcohol (Methanol or Ethanol) if we're talking about small amounts, like it got passed the rings on your daily driving and then a little bit more on race day or heavy street thrash day, either alcohol will evaporate over a short time at nomal operating temp. If you dump lots of alcohol then you can always pull the oil and heat it to 350F and that will burn it off, of course if its that bad you need a new set of rings so you might as well get new oil. You could of course run a Bean oil based motor oil then the alcohol will mix, no problem, well there is the Wax buildup inside the motor...