When using a Petroleum oil, and I don't know why anyone would in these engines, I can understand using a Higher Viscosity oil to compensate for shear and thermal degradation.

I don't recall without reading the previous pages where a 0W-30 was recommended but the AMSOIL SSO 0W-30 will provide outstanding protection. I agree that i would probable be best to keep it in an engine under that 650 HP Depending on build..

That is another thing.... "Fully Built".... 500, 600, 800 HP is not "Fully Built" when we are seeing HP of over 1000-1100... Those are "Warmed Up" engines...

When using a Premium Synthetic such as AMSOIL Like You mentioned, their RD Series is unbeatable. I know of many "Warmed up" engines running the RD-20 and RD-30 oils and quite a few "Very Hot" engines running the RD-50 oils.

By the way, if these customers of yours running ARO 20W-50 want Premium Protection and the most available from a higher viscosity oil, they should be running the RD-50.. It has better cold startability along with better protection on those cold starts along with Premium protection under any load, HP and Temperature range while adding HP.

I can understand where the engine builders recommend a higher viscosity oil even with tight clearance engines as they want it to live regardless of oil brand, Synthetic or Petroleum.

It is too difficult sometimes, as you know with the people insisting on 20W-50, to try and get them to understand that the "Old School Rules" don't apply when a specific product is used.

Of course, you always have the others that will say, "If AMSOIL can do it, so can other oils".

I have pictures of my drain pan with hunks of sludge on it after someone thought the competitions oil could go 1 yr/25K in their vehicle like AMSOIL could...

Keep up the good work but try to bring your customers up Slowly to change their thinking.. Including the engine builders...

.

 

I'm able to educate customers through experience and what's proven to work. All the literature - data - graphs can't compare to that.

I used Amsoil 10w-30 on my stock motor revving to 7700k rpms for well over 18k miles. I loved the Amsoil 10w-30 for that application. I went from stock turbo to running a GT3065 boosting 27psi daily..never had an issue.

Then we decided to build the motor and shoot for high HP back in November. After the build was done, broke it in and I stuck with my trusty Amsoil 10w-30. Well, during the process of tuning the vehicle....the vehicle saw as high as 9krpms a few times. On the last pull, with the tune in perfect check, the motor started to knock..pulled the oil pan...shavings everywhere...the 3rd rod bearing spun to hell due to oil starvation. The oil in the pan resembled a puddle of water, meaning it was very thin. Oil pressures were no issue as I was monitoring those as well. This was with the oil cooler in place. After seeing the catastrophy running such a thin oil at high RPMs can cause, Al advised us on the Valvoline oil he swears by and uses in his drag Evo.

Cut to the newly built block, still with stock crank (not the same one), same bearing clearances. I started off using an oil highly recommended to me by Buschur, same one they use for their builds. With great success on that oil, I had to switch over to the Valvoline ZR-1 20w-50 mainly due to price and accessability. I have well over 8k miles on it now driving it daily without an oil cooler and revving as high as 9krpms many times. Just the other night I hotlapped the car down the 1/4 mile track consistently trapping in the 135+ area on pump...not a single issue in this south Texas heat.

I'm sure there are some research, engineering articles that our methods don't necessarily parallel...but in real life application, where it matters and people's motors are at stake...it works.

Just to caveaut on that, I do change my oil every 2k miles, even with the stock motor I did so...I like to keep it clean

Of course I don't recommend the same thing to everyone, each car and driver has their own application and goals in mind so what I do won't be the best setup for someone else.

But my rule of thumb is...built motor = Buschur Oil or Valvoline VR-1 20w-50, stock motor = Amsoil 10w-30.

Jorge R.

 

If you had no oil pressure issue, how did you come up with the problem being the oil ?

If your clearances were opened up, I can see a potential problem but not with no oil pressure issues.

I use to succomb to the old addage that thicker is better..

We had just got done assembling 1 of our race motors and running Castrol 20W-50 in it. The car only made a few Hot Laps and spun a bearing.. Surely was not the oils fault. Another car with a professionally built engine, running Castrol 20W-50 as well... Hot Laps and threw the #1 Rod right out of the corner of the block. Surely was not the oil. These were mechanical failures not oil failures. It happens.

All I am saying is that it is too easy to put the blame on the oil.. Could it have been the oil ? Yes it could.... Is it Likely that it was the oil ? No it is not.

The NASCAR V-8's turning over 9K will Qualify on 5W-20 oil and there has been occassions where they have run 30 or more laps on that qualifying oil during the race because they couldn't make the HP on 20W-50 to keep up with the faster cars..

Stock clearances, light oil..

 

Bob you are right, most cases its the tune or mechanical failure, metal fatigue, knock, ect, ect......

 

Bit of a thread bump there, but, going by all that, your telling me its a good idea to run 5w30 oil, when I do 30mins track day sessions, with an ambient temperature of 95F, with a track temperature of over 100F ?

 

I've been putting Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic and am happy with the results so far.

 

I would run a 0w-30. It is usually a more refined and higher grade oil to achieve its viscosity ratings. It is still a 30 weight oil and has better cold flow properties when starting your car which is where 90% of an engines wear occurs. UAO results speak for themselves. I see too many M1 followers now a days that think its good just because their manufacture says it is. Fact of the matter is M1 is no longer a true synthetic, it is hydrocracked oil. The only M1 oil that receives consistently good UOA results in their 0w-40 European blend. It has to meet stricter european ACEA B3/B4 standards which most US oil don't meet. If you do some searching on sites that explain all these standards and go through some UOA results this will give you a better understanding. Their are some motorsports teams that have given great feedback and testing results also that is widely available.

Currently two of the best tested oils in the 30wt range are Amsoil SSO 0w-30 and German Castrol 0w-30. They both retain very similiar results. Another well ranked oil in Rotella T-Syn, although its only a G3 oil. They have recently downgraded their additive package but most results still show the T-Syn to be a good quality oil for the price. To date M1 in the 5w-30 and 10w-30 have not been seeing very good UOA results. The oil barely meets a 30wt viscosity and its additive package has severely been diluted. Another thing to note is many turbocharged engines have suffered from more fuel dilution while running M1, which the evo is VERY prone to do. So again unbiased results are what should be trusted, not somebody on the forum that says I run this oil because the shop I go to tells me its good. Their are many sites that include blackstone tests and professional UOA results. Little research will make you rethink which oil you run in your $30k plus car.

Cliffs: Look at this site for some good starting info: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Recommended oil:
Amsoil SSO 0w-30 (This is what I run based on my results having run most of these oils)
German Castrol 0w-30
Rotella T-Syn
Mobile1 0w-40

 

my brother, the 70s 80s are long gone, those days where the thicker the better are stuff of the past, iam sure you knew this already.

FYI, 0W30 5W30 and 10W30 are all 30 oils, the only difference betweeen them is that the 0W30 flows better and quicker when cold, but it will alway lubricate like a 30.

ive had people tell me that this 30 oil looks thinner that that 30 oil, its all misconception bottom line a 30 ia a 30, the oil structure bla bla migh be different depending on the manufacturer.

let us know if we can help

 

Would Brad Penn 10w-40 Partial Synthetic or REDLINE SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL 10W40 be better for my car?

2005 MR full bolts on, stock motor, 79k miles, E85.

 

I dont see why so many are giving you wrong info. 0w30- 10w30 wont be anything noticeable in protection which is what everyone is wondering. At a public oil awareness of 3000mile oil change you wont even be close to oil break down. Now if you were debating on which oil would last the longest without needing a change then I could see all these comments holding merit.

But on a 3000k oil change a fram filter wouldnt even be going bad. I still run mobil 1 10w30 but if you look up oil specs the amount the oils are tested for load bearing and protection go is out of this world. But generally they break down and oil stops its stats after 5k from my understanding.

At 2k or 3k you'll be fine with what ever you pick. Brand is pretty pointless seeing how most all big name oil companies are made in the a lot of the same processing plants and just relabeled as different brands.

Just my .02

 

Was it really necessary to necro bump a three year old thread instead of posting a new one?

To be honest, you're probably not going to notice any difference whatsoever between oils so long as all of them are fully synthetic as recommended by Mitsubishi.