gallas

iTrader: (7)

Ok i have searched and searched and i can not find a good description on how to perform the rope method for changing the valve springs... i understand how it generaly works but i dont understand how you get each piston to TDC i dont think u could manage to just turn the timing belt and screw up the timing... would you just do it in a open space and push the car until it goes TDC? I would really appreciate anyone's help because i want to replace my cam gears with the kelford 272 and would really like to have the recommended springs in with them.

Thanks
-gallas

Oki Panoki

iTrader: (8)

passenger side wheel, turn it all the way to the right. there is a hole in there and ur supposed to use a socket wrench to manually turn the crank. of course you gotta jack it up

actually maybe im confused, that might be another car... either way, jack up the car, put it in gear, turn the wheel till the notches on your cam gears line up with the notch on the valve cover.

Oki Panoki

iTrader: (8)

nope, i was right. but either way will do the same thing

CO_VR4

iTrader: (83)

That's not the complete answer. At timing mark, all the pistons are NOT at TDC. You simply pull the plugs, look down the plug hole and turn the motor by hand (using the square in the crank sproket and a L bar) until you have THAT piston at TDC, then do THAT cylinder. Next in turn, etc. until your done.

You could also do it the easier way, which is with an air compressor and a tool that screws into the spark plug hole and pressurizes the cylinder, which keeps the springs from falling into the cylinder when you remove the retainers... They're cheap and easier not to screw up your internals...

Evo8luva

iTrader: (6)

x2, you can actually use a comp. tester or cyl. leakdown test hose that comes with the kit and hook it up to your air hose. Used to do it on ls1's all the time.

Or pop the head off and do it that way, but then you have to get a new headgasket, I.M. gasket if need be and re-time the motor. Plus if your going through all that trouble, you may as well put some better valves in there, get the head checked by a machine shop, have the head ported, ect. lol.

gallas

iTrader: (7)

I have heard of using air pressure but isnt that a little risky I was told that it is kinda a hit and miss method? also i have heard of some specialty tools that can remove the retainers with more ease and also doesn't their need to be some form of a spring compression tool to remove the springs or am i just misunderstanding the process of removing the springs?

CO_VR4

iTrader: (83)

I assumed that you were already familiar with the process for actually changing the springs. I was only answering your question about how to hold the valves from falling into the cylinder...

Air pressure will work just fine for holding the valves in place. But the placement of the piston at or near TDC will provide you the extra margin of safety, since if the valve drops into the cylinder, it won't drop very far with the piston at TDC

sblvro

iTrader: (2)

I have used the compressor method in my old mitsu 6g72 and as long as you can maintain a constant 150+psi it should not be a problem(valves falling in the chamber).

barneyb

I've used the rope method on this engine. I used it because I believed it to be the safer method. People say that if the piston is up you can't lose a valve. Well, if you are using air the piston may be down, forced down by the air.

The retainers wedge in and it takes a little extra force to break them free. If I used air I was concerned the small valves in this engine could be moved and it this happens at the time the retainers come free the valve is gone.

To do this on car you need a valve spring tool that bolts to the head.

sblvro

iTrader: (2)

I have used the KD 3271...


http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html

evo 8 ya

iTrader: (31)

+1 I just replaced mine with the head on the car. I used a special top secret 4g63 specific tool to compress the the valve springs. I have the KD3271 too and that would work just as well.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

It's completely fine so long as you bring each piston close to TDC for that cylinder before pressurizing it. That way, should you accidentally apply enough pressure to the valve to depressurize the cylinder, the valve only drops a few mm until the piston prevents it from any dropping further.

If you don't have compressed air available, you can use the string method this same way.

If you start at TDC with the cam gear timing marks straight up, that puts cyls #1 and #4 at TDC. To get #s 2 and 3 at TDC, just rotate the crank until the cam gear timing marks are 90 deg from the straight up position (the cam gears turn at 1/2 crank speed).

gallas

iTrader: (7)

So from what i understand you dont even have to put a rope into the engine? as long as it is TDC the Valve stem wont be able to drop down just fall until they hit the piston head? Or do you have to place the rope into the engine and just turn it till it stops and cant move since the rope restricts the piston head from going completely TDC

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

Right, the rope is used as a soft-stop for the piston, and prevents the valve from moving at all, which makes the spring easy to change.

gallas

iTrader: (7)

Thanks that was exactly what i was looking to hear, now i have a question about removing the retainers. I have read that you can just take them out without a special tool and just a screwdriver with a magnet on it. But i have also read that you can simplify this process by buying specialty tools that make removing the retainers "easier". does any one recommend a brand of this tool. i have looked around and found a few but dont quite know what i am looking for and not quite understanding how they work... if anyone could help me with a recommendation of what brand/tool to buy for removing retainers would be very appreciated, also if someone could give me a description of how these tools work and the benefits of using them compared to not using them.