hey ya'll

I'm building a new shortblock and am trying to decide between a stock crank or k1 lightweight crank that goes for around 1500 new.

I havent decided if I'm building a 2.0 liter or a 2.3 liter yet.

BUT it seems to me that you would probably see the most benefit out of the K1 with a 2.0 since you have more RPM's to work with.

would it be worth the money on a 2.3 liter build though?

also, are there any ill-effects for a lightweight crank such as warping?

this car will be driven a lot!

thanks,
John

 

bump

 

hey ya'll I just weighed the stock crank and it came out to 32.2 lbs

the K1 lightweight is supposed to be 31 lbs.

unless there is a HUGE gain in strength I really fail to see it worth the extra money..

anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

Nobody has any opinions about this?

 

truthfully i don't think that many if anyone has had expierence with them since stock cranks work so well. i know ams used a k1 crank in their top shop challenge build so i assume they're pretty stout. I would give the a call and see what they say about it.

 

I have a lightened and knife edged OEM crank in my car as I wanted to build a motor that could sustain 9,000 rpm + rev's, and I mist admit, I like it alot, but also must admit, not for daily driving.
My Motor has no balance shafts, lightened & knife edged crank, and a Tilton Clutch, so the total weight savings I took out of the rotating assembly was close to 25 lbs.. Its really touchy, almost too touchy for daily driving. If I had the chance, I wouldn't do it again just because I use it for a daily driver.
If I did do it again, I would still do the knife edging of the crank, but put probably an Exady triple in the car rather than the Tilton do to the weight difference between the two. (Heavier, thus keeping the RPM from dropping too fast and stalling out the motor.)


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/6627002-post54.html

Check my post here, as well as the thread..

 

The K1 crank is a nice billet crank, especially for the price. If you're driving your car daily, you can really benefit from the longer stroke. Whether you need it depends on your goal for the engine and your budget.

 

how many miles do you have on your setup?

also, can't a stock crank go to 9000 rpm's?

 

this is off topic but have any of ya'll ever called jackson auto machine?

I was calling them for guideance on what crank they'd recommend for a setup like mine.

Well, A woman answered the phone and I was like "damnit" lol

cuz we all know most women don't know **** about technical questions haha.

then I got to talking to her for a bit and I was like holy crap!!...this woman knows her stuff!!! haha

 

Technically yes, if the rest of the motor is built properly...

But, I can also show a few data logs where my RPM was "Too High to Quote"..

I have about 6,000 miles on my set-up now, and believe me, those 6,000 miles equate to probably 45,000...

 

the only concern I have with knife edging the crank is the loss of strength that may occur, I'm sure it does help with real high RPM's though

 

If you are getting the K1 crank, I would just send it out to be machined and take off more than 2 lbs. Lightening the crank wont make it less strong, if done right it wont hurt it because you are just removing weight from the counterweight. If youre building a street car, the 100mm is awesome, but if you track it, the 2.0 is a bit better.