Look what i did to my front diff
Look what i did to my front diff
Launching it down a drag strip, lunched the front diff halfway through 1st gear lol
Didnt get much change from NZ$5k lol
This is sorta what the diff looks like when in 1 piece


This is it in pieces

Its definately a helical front diff, note the worm gears

The rest of the insides of the transfer case

The transfer casing. Evo gearbox on right and primera box on left
Didnt get much change from NZ$5k lol

This is sorta what the diff looks like when in 1 piece
This is it in pieces
Its definately a helical front diff, note the worm gears
The rest of the insides of the transfer case
The transfer casing. Evo gearbox on right and primera box on left
prolly around 320whp
its an evo 7 gsr with TBE (80mm kakimoto... LOUD), 21psi and tune. nothing too fancy
1st run i got 13.5 at 175kph woohoo
2nd run it let go
was using 5000rpm launch control and tephra NLTS (which rocks btw)
what do you mean when you say 'preloading the drivetrain'?
its an evo 7 gsr with TBE (80mm kakimoto... LOUD), 21psi and tune. nothing too fancy
1st run i got 13.5 at 175kph woohoo
2nd run it let go
was using 5000rpm launch control and tephra NLTS (which rocks btw)
what do you mean when you say 'preloading the drivetrain'?
He means slowly slipping the clutch till the car starts moving so all the drivetrain parts are already positioned "next to each other" in the direction where you're going.
For example a very stupid mistake you can make is going past the stage lights and then going reverse just to the point where you get ready to launch it. All your drivetrain is leaning on the parts in the opposite direction of where you'll be going and when you launch there's still gaps there and that's one of the ways of breaking stuff really fast.
Hope this made some sense.
For example a very stupid mistake you can make is going past the stage lights and then going reverse just to the point where you get ready to launch it. All your drivetrain is leaning on the parts in the opposite direction of where you'll be going and when you launch there's still gaps there and that's one of the ways of breaking stuff really fast.
Hope this made some sense.
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my expensive mistake then haha though wouldnt the clutch restrictor pill slip the clutch a bit anyway?
coming from FWD's i used to just dump the clutch and modulate the throttle
another theory is that whoever changed the bolts on the helical lsd to cap screws overtightened them because there appears to be mini cracks around them.
oh well if you're gonna break something, do it right and totally f*** it haha
funny you should mention, a friend of mine has a p11 t4 with sr20vet (xtrail engine). quick car
coming from FWD's i used to just dump the clutch and modulate the throttle
another theory is that whoever changed the bolts on the helical lsd to cap screws overtightened them because there appears to be mini cracks around them.
oh well if you're gonna break something, do it right and totally f*** it haha
funny you should mention, a friend of mine has a p11 t4 with sr20vet (xtrail engine). quick car
Last edited by nocabiwiksmx; May 27, 2009 at 08:18 PM.
more slip, vs the dump. Dump sends drivetrain shock, shock = breakage. Not the end of the world, ralliart lsd or quaiffe lsd and you'll be back in no time.
Note: removing the factory restrictor pill allows for easier clutch slipping.
Note: removing the factory restrictor pill allows for easier clutch slipping.
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