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AMS 2.0 build/ FP beehive, kelford 272 problem

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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #16  
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From: Indiana
I like the turbo on the right as well. Is the turbo on the left being used yet?
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #17  
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From: Indy
Not yet, gonna have the manifold coated when I get Stoners coated (after I finish it) To much to do. My shortblock is done though.

Fathouse
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 03:58 PM
  #18  
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From: EWING,NEW JERSEY
who did the spring install? and does the FP spring come with a locater? or do you re-use the stock piece? I don't think that could be a batch issue, that is a ordering the right part to go along with the spring issue.

.010!! I can not believe you were even able to drive it with only .010...you should run in the min, .030- .040 range before coil bind.

Crazy!
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 06:37 PM
  #19  
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I did the original spring install stock head re using all original head parts that came apart when removing stock springs. The spring install after the machine work was done per fp's instructions by my head guy. The measurements to do machine work were also per FP. I did not physically see any of the measurements or the instruments used to do the measuring. The fp springs come by themselves no other pieces. They have since been running in the car for 5k plus miles with lots of pulls above 8500 rpm without any issues.
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #20  
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From: EWING,NEW JERSEY
words cannot describe how lucky you are...

one last question...oversize valve?
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #21  
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From: Indy
Originally Posted by HeadGames
words cannot describe how lucky you are...

one last question...oversize valve?
Stock valves. It was a stock untouched head with 70k miles that he changed the springs in car.

Fathouse
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #22  
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I am still confused what this issue was here (besides the obvious problem in the oil pick up from the pan). Was this a valve guide issue? A spring issue?

Maybe I am thick, but I am still confused what the exact issue is/was.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 02:51 PM
  #23  
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From: Indiana
The guides were cracked but I didn't know that when I posted the pics. I have been horrible at keeping this up to date.

As fathouse said the head was bone stock with the exception of cams when I installed the springs. I didn't notice the valve seal issue until I decided to build the block for peace of mind which was about 5k after the springs were installed.

There isn't any issue that I'm aware of after replacing the guides and new seals.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 03:20 PM
  #24  
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From: Los Angeles
Ok, so there was a valve seal issue first, which you didn't notice. How did that contribute to the cracked guide(s)?
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 06:00 PM
  #25  
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From: EWING,NEW JERSEY
You run a clearance before coil bind because the spring doesn't stay .010 away while running at high rpm. So you run .040+ to be safe. The spring being that tight(.010) the retainer was just bouncing off the guide at high rpm. The guide is cast, so it cracks or breaks. If it happened with the bronze it would have just beat it up. Either way it would have leaked because of the seal. We have run them in the high .030's in some of the race heads where fast ramp speeds on the cam are the norm because running it close can help with harmonics...to think about it another way, a dollar is .007 thick and he has .010 from coil bind!

You guys kinda contradicted yourselves with if it was or not a stock head..but you mentioned stock parts, and FP's site says stock locaters and anything being machined with a stock valve would have taken you farther away from bind(or the guides and seals being destroyed) unless the cam was bigger(to much lift) then the spring was designed for..

Last edited by HeadGames; Feb 23, 2010 at 06:15 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 01:24 AM
  #26  
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From: hershey pa/williamsport
I wasn't saying you had dual springs I was just saying it's common with them. My supertechs came with them. Ps I used to have the fp's in my car but I have since removed them, I won't use fp parts on my lawn mower.... For personal reasons
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #27  
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From: JAX, FL
I have GSC S2's that i just got and was thinking of getting the FP Springs. If i do get them, what needs to be dont so i dont have this problem happen?
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 12:04 PM
  #28  
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From: hershey pa/williamsport
Originally Posted by goad_white03
I have GSC S2's that i just got and was thinking of getting the FP Springs. If i do get them, what needs to be dont so i dont have this problem happen?
The problem, he had was pretty much a common wear issue. If you remove the head and bring it to a trusted machine shop and have them verify the valve guides are in nice shape. Also i would get the slimmer valve stem seals from supertech regardless I have just seen way to many factory ones failing.
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 06:22 PM
  #29  
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From: EWING,NEW JERSEY
You have to use the supertech seal with their spring kit because their inner spring has a smaller inner diameter then most if not all other duel spring kits. The inner spring does not get along with the fat outer diameter of the stock size seal and pulls the seal off the guide. It is the same seal used for the Honda LS. It doesn't really affect any other spring package you might use.
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