which clutch with my red and aquamist setup?
which clutch with my red and aquamist setup?
Im going to be running my new fp red with 1000cc injectors, aquamist, and s2 cams. whats the best clutch or what are you running with a steup similar to mine? I plan on running at like 28 pounds or so and want to make sure its holds the power. Hope high 400's maybe 500 if im lucky
I really wanted to get the excedy twin it looks like alot of people are using it also with no problems. Anyone got one for sale?lol what flywheel goes good with it?
Im going to be running my new fp red with 1000cc injectors, aquamist, and s2 cams. whats the best clutch or what are you running with a steup similar to mine? I plan on running at like 28 pounds or so and want to make sure its holds the power. Hope high 400's maybe 500 if im lucky
- Staying clear of rattling strip clutches (QM, Tilton, etc.).
- Avoiding pricey carbon clutches, including those 'street' models with high rebuild cost.
- Sticking with a street, dual disc type.
Where those are concerned, your choices are primarily Exedy and SPEC. The Exedy has a good reputation on the street. The SPEC is a push type, and is stronger. Both offer good longevity and have a reasonable rebuild cost.
Trending Topics
I recommend avoiding that clutch, Tilton, or any other small diameter metallic clutch like the plague for a street car, especially to someone who has no exposure to them. Drifto went from a QM to a SPEC. I went from a Tilton to a SPEC. Needless to say, neither of us would go back ... ever.
How proven is the SPEC? A friend of mine tried a new-to-the-market SPEC clutch years ago on his Camaro. Within 2,000 miles it grenaded and nearly severed his toe off. SPEC gave him a new clutch and shortly thereafter abandoned the design. I hate companies that beta test with unknowing customers.
So far, so good. I've taken down my own unit after several thousand miles of hard use, and it's fine. This clutch is completely different animal than anything you remember. It's CNC machined from a billet and very robust. I wouldn't advocate it if I wasn't completely satisfied. In fact, I am willing to say that from what I've seen and experienced to date where EVO clutches are concerned, there is no better street clutch on the market, period.
So far, so good. I've taken down my own unit after several thousand miles of hard use, and it's fine. This clutch is completely different animal than anything you remember. It's CNC machined from a billet and very robust. I wouldn't advocate it if I wasn't completely satisfied. In fact, I am willing to say that from what I've seen and experienced to date where EVO clutches are concerned, there is no better street clutch on the market, period.
what model of spec ????? 6 puck ???
How proven is the SPEC? A friend of mine tried a new-to-the-market SPEC clutch years ago on his Camaro. Within 2,000 miles it grenaded and nearly severed his toe off. SPEC gave him a new clutch and shortly thereafter abandoned the design. I hate companies that beta test with unknowing customers.
Stock MC is on the verge of being too small. As a result clutch adjustment and proper bleeding or essential to make this clutch work well. The notchyness will go away after a couple thousand miles (as the discs wear in). My clutch works very well now that there are some miles on it, but initially the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and would cause the car too move a little when first was selected from a dead stop. A bigger MC would correct this problem but until someone makes a 3/4" replacement (up from 5/8") the clutch will drag a little until the car wears in the discs.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Over extending the rod to try and combat this will lead to problems with the hydraulics so I'd advise against hyper extending the length of the clutch rod. The way I bleed them is to start with the rod at the stock length and then lengthen the clutch rod until you can no longer get the clutch to bleed - You will find that an over extended rod will not allow the MC to draw in fresh fluid as the pedal comes back up. Once this length is reached , shorten the clutch rod about a turn and lock it down. This will be the max you can lengthen the rod and still get a full pull of fluid when bleeding. After this preliminary adjustment, you shouldn't have to mess with it again. You will note that the car will want to move a little when engaging first and everything is cold. Shifting will also be a little notchy if you are trying to bang gears for the first 1,000 or so miles, but after a couple thou. this clutch will work great.
It is a very street friendly clutch and it can hold insane amount of power without all the chatter and rattles you typically find with a twin, but because the Evo's MC is a little too small, you willl have to put up with some notchyness initially. The pros greatly outweigh the cons. Just be patient with the clutch and you will find that it gets better with every mile.
Ryu has lockout issues on high rpm shifts. You'll find that Ted B loves his clutch however. While you are breaking in the clutch for several thousand miles, you are abusing your transmission because the clutch is not fully disengaging.https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...p-tuned-2.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...c-install.html
Last edited by bambooi; Sep 15, 2009 at 04:53 AM.
I think I'll stick to what i know works QM (never failed yet), other company like Tilton and Exedy are great aswell. Ive yet to hear anything or read about this SPEC clutch....
Last edited by 1NastyMR; Sep 15, 2009 at 04:55 AM.