Hi Avatar,

i just talked to a few guys i know and they are working hard to find you a new diff. so far the options are:

cusco (need to make sure that they do make one for a non acd car)
ats - amazing diff and affordable and i do believe they make one for your car
kaaz - still checking on application
ralliart - i know they make one but it is kinda over priced for what you get and it will be harder to find.

i will let you know what's going on when we talk on the phone

 

Avatar, look around at all the online junk yards and your local places, especially california/etc. You can probably locate a parts car SOMEWHERE and if not, maybe at least a chassis/drivetrain you can piece out. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

Sounds like the wheel hop may have been the root cause... sending shock loads through the drivetrain. Don't know what it takes to prevent it though. Maybe less traction with different tires?

 

less traction should prevent it because that is what i did with my WRX. once you have less traction, most of the load goes on the tires and not on the tranny. however, by reducing traction you will also up the times for your run.

 

did you dump on the tranny a lot?

hope you get everything str8'ned out

 

Buschur posted that the transfer cases aren't shimmed right and there may be a recall... look for the post..

 

Stiffer motor mounts and an LSD would go a long way to curing wheel hop without hurting your times. Availability of those parts for our cars is another story.

 

Sorry to hear about your loss, AoW. I respect the fact that you're willing to say "I broke it" though; that says good things about you. On the lighter side, if you do find a good upgrade diff, you've just knocked one more of the "supporting" upgrades off the list; that shold let you get back to more "power" upgrades.

BTW, doesn't RMR sell a dog-box tranny? I'm not sure if it would be any good for drag racing, but they might know something about possible diff upgrades.

Also, would going to harder coilovers help to prevent wheel hop? I'd think the stiffer spring rates would tend to keep your tires more firmly planted; FYI, I'm clueless about drag racing.

 

Ouch. That sucks. Best of luck to you.

I had similar fitment issues with the stock BOV so I uninstalled my AEM intake (I was certain it was going to come loose; they just don't sit comfortably together).

 

We have a really good relationship with AEM at the shop and they are only a couple exits down the freeway. I'll tell them about this issue with the BOV. In the mean time, I suggest getting a really big zip tie to tie the BOV and intake pipe together.

I'll check and see what I can find about some diffs and some motor mounts.

Rob

 

Rob, that's a good suggestion - I'll pick up some xtra large zip ties today. I'd appreciate any help you could give the guys to AEM on their intake - their kit had some other minor issues (poor fitment near the fender, the 3" hose used to connect the MAF to the pipe needs to be 3.25" on one end - see my review in the Parts Review section of this site). I think if they got those issues sorted out, they'd have a decent product on their hands.

I also want to give a big thanks to blonde (snir) on this board - though we weren't able to locate an aftermarket diff that would work on the USDM, he did spend a lot of his time hunting around and calling overseas to locate me something this morning.

I've decided to go with a stock diff again, which I got from mitsu for $2000 + $200 labor to put it on.

 

I appreciate your concern. The kit does come with an extra hose clamp but I still couldn't get it to sit flush enough that I would be comfortable that it wouldn't leak.

Perhaps I should have further adjusted the inlet pipe...

 

What some people are doing is putting the MAF upside down to remedy this problem. I've sold many many AEMs (even Cris - AvatarOfWar's is from me - which I drop shipped for evo1). I'll talk to AEM about this.

 

Rotating the MAF is more for the fitment of the actual filter assembly but not the BOV. Flipping the MAF also forces the loss of the MAF's ability to drain any excess water that may end up in the filter.

I'm wondering if my issue is due to the fact that I didn't do alot of messing around with the rubber tubing that connects directly to the turbo. (Due to my own tired state and bleeding hands) However, I have heard of others having similar fitment issues (Like AvatarOfWar).

Again, many thanks.

 

Avatar, I agree with you, that was my point. I never meant to imply that the EVO's drivetrain is weaker, because if anything, it's stronger, but from some of the comments I've read from other people, they would have you believe it's bullet-proof. I simply meant to imply that it depends a lot on how you drive the car.

'Dan' would be Dan Cokic, the guy from Pruven, and a really good driver.