can anyone help me i have 03 evo with 06 mivec engine with a 2.3 ams stroker kit i would like to know what is the best turbo. i want to use this car for daily driving too. but i want to build at least 700hp evo.

and for my engine i am putting ams stroker kit, what else can i do to build a very strong engine. please be specific because i dont really understand i am just reaserching online

thank you!!!

 

If you don't know much about motors, take your time and read as much on this forum as you can. Be patient. Building a 700 HP car is a time and money intensive project, and doing it once instead of changing parts several times will save you time, head ache, and big dollars.

If you're anywhere near a reputable shop, go spend the time to get to know them, see cars in different stages of build, drive or ride in them, and get a better feel for what you really want. I think English Racing can't be too far from you. Give them a visit...

 

Daily driving a 700HP beast isn't really recommended unless you build other things like the tranny, transfer case and maybe even the rear differential. Heck, you even need a better clutch for something like this. I don't know much about twin discs clutches but I can tell you that they aren't daily driving friendly too.

You sound like you're new to this whole modding scene so I would like to tell you to start off small and learn more about what you have now. So far, you just told us that you have a 2.3 stroker kit and now, you're going to buy another stroker kit so this really doesn't make any sense. AMS only makes one kind of stroker kit (looking it up from their website) and it's the 2.3 that you supposedly already have. I also really want to know if you actually have an 03 with a MIVEC engine in it or just a MIVEC head.

Personally, if I was you, I would send my car out to a shop like AMS for them to build it and tune it. Since you live in WA though, go see the shop that CO_VR4 mentioned.

 

Not only is English Racing very close to Seattle, you also have ETS really close too... Give Aaron a call at English Racing and he can answer any question that you have, even running Speed density on the stock ecu. BTW his car is running over 550HP on the stock block and stock ECU...

 

i dont think daily driving a 700hp evo is smart. Thats way over board with hp to be a daily driven car.

and if your looking for a strong motor i would recomend staying away from the stroker kit and just doing a fully built 2.0 with crank, rods, pistons, etc.

and for some advice to you....before you spend a dime on the car....sit on this forum for about 2 months straight and just read....you will be able to answer all your qeustions and come back to this thread and relize what you said isnt logical.

goodluck.

 

I agree you should be very patient, wait, and read as much as possible for as long as possible before you do this.

I also agree that the built 2.0 would probably be a more reliable daily driver option.

I don't agree that 700+hp is too much for a daily driver. There are 9 second evos all over the place that are daily driven. They make at least that much power.

 

there are alot of turbo that can make over 700hp
u need to do more research...

 

To get driveability and 700HP, you need displacement to spool the turbo off idle, otherwise you'll be chasing the turbo in traffic off-power trying to keep it bubbling high enough to make even tolerable power. I don't think you can regear the splits in your tranny to accomodate the RPM drop to keep a turbo that big in the power, either.

There's a reason that 3.8L Porsche GT2 turbos make "only" 700HP tuned...it is because they can make that kind of power and still maintain beautiful off idle torque in real world conditions.

A 2 liter motor just doesn't push enough exhaust gas until it is boiling to blow a compressor that can support 700HP. It seems that for most of these cars, 400ish HP is the max for a stockish car that maintains good daily drivability.

Beyond that, you have to spend cubic dollars in upgrading every system in your motor to whittle away at low RPM inadequacies.

 

Power is inversely proportional to longevity. Anyone who does not understand what that means need not mention "700whp" and "daily driver" within the same sentence, unless of course, he has a money tree growing in the backyard. When a regular individual documents 50k miles with a truly daily driven 700whp 2.0L, then I'll sit up and take note. Until then, I don't consider 5-10k miles/yr and an annual rebuild as representative of 'daily driving'.

 

^^^ is there a set number that can be DD? is 400 the max for good power that will last for a long time? im at that point now but i dont have a money tree

 

I daily drive a +600hp car and 99.99% of the time I'm not making anything near that power level just commuting to and from work, the grocery store, taking the kid to soccer practice, etc... you'll be fine if it's built right, just keep up with the preventative maintenance...

 

You'll need a money tree for the build required to support a DD +600hp build... A 450hp DD build can be had today under 5k complete! You're looking a 3X that for a +600hp DD...

 

The trouble is that more power generates more heat and stress, and generally requires more rpm to achieve it. When that power is being generated, the rate of wear is rapidly accelerated, especially when the revs exceed 7k rpm. Succinctly put, the greater the power, rpm, and time spent generating that power, the shorter the lifespan. To put that into perspective, squeezing 700whp from 2.0L is akin to 1750whp being asked from a 5.0L Mustang. How long would anyone expect that to survive until the next rebuild? Keep cash handy.

Putting longevity into a general rule of thumb isn't easy, because there are just too many variables that influence the equation. I'd say keeping things to around 500whp and 8k rpm with only occasional bursts of power would be a good means of maximizing longevity.

 

A lot of it has to do with design of the motor and design of the bottom end. One of the major modes of failure on high power motors is the pounding the bearings take. Motors with a bearing between every journal will be much more robust than one that doesn't.

Think of the pounding load in terms of distribution across the length of the crank. An 8 cylinder motor with a bearing between every cylinder is distributing the load across a much wider surface. If you do the math, a load (arbitrary) of 1000 units across 4 cylinders means each surface take 250 units of wear. An 8 cylinder motor of equal power will power will only see 125 units per surface. Since these stress loads tend to wear parts in an accelerating manner as pounding pressures rise, you can see why a higher cylinder count can bear the power load more reliably.

Add the RPM variable and the material stresses across the entire engine go up even more.

It is best to be pragmatic in designing a motor within the contraints it was designed to ear. Most sports cars have sinificant margin built in - best not to exceed it, even if you don't know what that threshhold is.

 

I think my buddy was making 700 on his 03 with a 37R which was before the HTA was introduced. There is my answer to your question.