So I took my car into GST the other day and found a laundry list of problems. They only looked at my car real quick and didn't really get inside as far as I know. Anyway, they think I have a broken lifter, which I suspected because of the rattle it makes. I'm going to replace the lifters and I was wondering what else I should look for/replace that could also be damaged?

Note: I didn't do this to the car, I bought it like this lol.

 

If your doing lifters and can afford it do the rest of the head components. Its not to expensive at all and you have a good safe high rpm head. meaning springs, retainers, seats, usually gett all for around 5-6 bills then theres lifters and rockers. go with ble or jam soild lifters.

What other problems did they list ? Always better to do it all the first time then it costing you dearly later.

 

We don't offer a solid lifter but we can definitely help you out with a set of hydraulics designed for high performance

 

Oh god...other problems they listed was the throttle body seals were leaking, but I bought a new one already...haven't installed it. And that the clutch pedal was (I forget the word) but basically it would eventually need to be replaced because of something to do with the pressure plate. The pedal feels fine to me and like it could go 10,000 miles so I would do this last. My stock 8 turbo is also leaking oil they said, so I'm guessing the seals are out. So I plan on upgrading the turbo, just not sure what I want to get yet. And also something to do with some of my lines, like the boost solenoid etc.

Yeah...it sucks, but I don't want to sell this car. To get an idea of how crappy its running right now...my BPU 02 V6 eclipse felt faster than my evo does right now. But I'm gonna keep it, its kind of like waiting to open a present that's been sitting under the xmas tree all week. I realize the potential that is waiting to be unleashed

 

Already ahead of you on that haha.

http://www.jacksonautomachine.com/in...hk=1&Itemid=12

I've been eyeballing those ones all weekend. Do you have any valves also? I'm worried I might need to replace those, so I think I'm gonna get some as a precaution.

 

Is it not advised to get used Cams/cam shafts? A buddy of mine said not.

 

You can use used cams as long as they're in good shape. Look for pitting, wear on the lobes and journals or any scoring. It's also a good idea to make sure they're straight.

We do have valves in stock. We carry them in both standard and +1mm oversise but those require a valve job to fit.

 

So for any aftermarket valves for a standard head, would it require extra work? Or would I be able to just drop them in like stock valves?

 

As long as your buying stock sized valves you'll be all set. But once the head is off you should inspect all the seats and its better to have the head re finished and surfaced also.

A lot of the stock lines you can get rid off. For the bcs though you need another type of controller. Best place to start reading is the ecu flash forum. Not sure what you know or picked up already.

Did you buy a whole new tb or just the seals ? From the way it sounds you bought a new tb which is not needed just the seals.

Sorry JAM about the mix up. As matter of fact Im not sure if the ble were solid or hydraulic. I would stick with hydraulic no use in solid unless its a race car.

 

Stock sized valves will drop right in. Ideally you would have a good valve job done at the same time but you don't need to. At the very least you will want to lap them in to make sure they're sealing. If for some reason they don't all lap in you will then need a valve job.

 

I bought only the seals for the throttle body. I think I am going to start another thread on my head build for extra input. I tried searching around and I haven't really found any threads discussing builds like comparing components to put in a head. The only way I seem to be able to find out what most people do is by searching for specs on their cars and seeing what they put in it, along with a lot of other misc stuff.

So in response to JAM's last post...new valves aren't really that important? What I'm looking for is reliability with my head so I don't have to worry about issues again. I know it's kind of a double edged sword with a modified car. How strong are the stock valves?

 

I think this is on topic...

Assuming good quality valvetrain components, what is a reasonable replacement interval for valvesprings and lifters on a car that sees a decent amount of high RPM track time and is running high ramp rate aggressive cams?

 

Ok, here is what I am looking at doing so far. I'm going to buy another members used but good condition head off the forum. Then I'm going to have the head refinished and surfaced. I'm not sure how much this will cost, but I will call around for quotes tomorrow. I assume any performance automotive machine shop should know how to do this?

Going into the head will be the following:

Manley Performance Dual Valve Spring and Ti Retainers ($440.64)

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...at=1619&page=1

Arp Head Stud Kit ($105.50)

http://www.jacksonautomachine.com/in...mart&Itemid=12

HKS 272/272 intake/exhaust camshafts (used) (price in negotiation)

Is there anything I should change or that I missed that is really important? I'm still pretty new to this so try not to be to harsh on me lol.

Thanks for all the input and help!

 

Also how much of a difference would it make to replace the stock lifters?

 

I would recommend the Kelford 272 cams if you were going to buy them outright, but since you are contemplating a set of HKSs then that is up to you... The stock lifters are known to tick, a few companies offer new lifters that are supposed to eliminate the ticking lifter thing...