this will mist entire underside of car while driving. could easily get on clutch

 

It doesn't. it doesn't mist, it just rolls back on the pan, there's a pretty clear path it goes down, and it's away from the clutch.

At any rate, its been doing it for the past.. 50,000 miles, and the stock clutch lasted me to 90k.

 

I'm hoping to have my spec super twin (ss trim) out of my car this friday or sat. I'm going to ship it back to spec to have them look at it and see if there is anything wrong with the assembly. I will post up what they find wrong, if anything.

 

take some pics. Wondering if there was a string of bad springs or something like that

 

HATE to jump on the bandwagon also

so I have about 800 miles on the car now.. babied no launching at all... engagement has stayed the same from day 1. However, in the morning, my clutch master cylinder makes some weird as squeeing sounds, and it almost seems like it is hard to push down the pedal... after a few pumps of the clutch pedal.. It is fine. Now it has been kind of chilly here in michigan, temps in the morning are around 38 degrees..

next "issue" if I downshift , I get a grinding type sound..but only if I leave the rpm where it is and shove it into gear. Upshifts are flawless so far.

 

you mean the squeal from a quick downshift? mine does that all the time. its dragging one of the discs before you've let off the clutch all the way.

 

yup take for example when I am cruising in 5th and then I quickly downshift to 4th, I get a grinding sound ( its definitely the clutch). I figured it was normal for a twin disc.

For what it is worth.. I already had full SS lines to the Hydro TOB.

 

cool. yeah, I think thats a normal noise, at least for these clutches. my buddie's nissan does the same thing

 

I wonder if rev matching would fix that issue ? , You would think that it would do the same thing on an Upshift as well . Did you get a chance to figure out your issues ? or are you waiting on Spec.

 

its bouta be in spec's court now, i'm running out of things to check/replace. I'm going to try and get a look inside from the fork cover, but I don't expect to see anything out of the ordinary.

If you rev match your downshifts, it will not make that noise. if you come off the clutch really fast, it won't make the noise either but it might throw you through the windshield . Normally I get that noise when I'm downshifting and not on the throttle at all, or easing off from a stop real slow.

 

I've had my clutch(spec p-trim) installed for over 3000 miles. I'm having similar problems as others in this thread. I have some sort of slipping issue or something that happens but only when engaging the clutch from a stop. The car sort of jerks or shudders until it starts rolling. If I rev the engine higher and slip the clutch it will start smooth but makes a horrible groaning noise. The first 750-1000 miles this wasn't happening. I have adjusted the pedal both up and down, with no luck. I have tried bleeding the clutch, and I get some dirty oil out, and the problem seemed to resolve itself but after about 50 miles of driving it came back.

Also I can't shift overly fast and I certainly can't NLTS. I wouldn't really call this much of an issue but I can see how it would be a problem for somebody like Ryu.

As far as the grinding on downshift, This seems normal, it happens to me if I don't rev match perfectly, and also happened in a tilton twin carbon I drove as well. But that is the extent of my experience with twin discs.

I originally got this clutch over the exedy because I didn't want to worry about the ring popping out. I also didn't want to have to deal with the rattling/grinding noise you hear about when you have the pedal pushed in. The first 750 or so miles were great the clutch was very quiet. But it's progressively gotten louder. It's pretty annoying.

I'm going to watch this thread and see what linuxman has to say after he visits with spec. Eventually if I've tried everything else with no luck, I'm going to try a larger MC.

 

I shall try to rev match then when down shifting, in a few weeks I shall be at the 1000 mile mark, so if the problems are duplicated like others are speaking of in my car, I shall begin to diagnois things.

we should get a list of how many threads are left on the adjustment rod, just so we can get a better guage on how everyones throw is compared to what spec wants it to be .

I am at 5 threads left, a MC that has 101k , full SS lines to the Hydro TOB, and a BRAND new SHEP trans.

 

rgar, the sound your describe when leaving from a stop is likely chatter. This occurs when leaving from a stopped position (generally first or reverse) and results from the discs scuffing the corresponding friction surfaces of the plate, floater or flywheel. The P-Trim will be a bit more likely to do this than the SS-Trim (due to the use of two pucked discs). This doesn't inherently evidence an issue and being a bit quicker in removing your foot from the clutch will reduce the amount of chatter you experience.

antilag, the majority of people I speak with have their master adjusted in a way that leaves ~4 threads. Every car can differ a bit but this is what I see most commonly.

 

NLTS works fine, you just have to have a higher drop rpm. Mine is marginal at 1200, and I think part of it is due to the transmission being worn out. I have heard tell that increasing it a bit more even will allow it to go into gear faster. once you hit the limiter with NLTS it takes noticeably more time to get to the next gear.

I'll try and remember to re-visit this thread after the dust all settles, but I don't know when that'll be. I *have* to have the car, its the only one of the three I own that I trust to leave town with

 

Linux brings up an interesting point. It seems that the majority of those having difficulty are also using NTLS. What do you have the RPM drop set to? Have you tried adjusting this to see what impact it has?