Rolling resistance
My car seems to have a lot of rolling resistance when it gets hot.
The only thing I've done is put bigger rims and tires a in May (stock to 17 x 9 rims and 255 /40/17 tires), I didn't any significant feel rolling resistance until now.
Example:
1) When I'm pulling into my garage or a parking space my car will come to a complete stop much quicker than before. It feels like I have my hand brake slightly pulled. I have to rev my engine to pull the car forward.
2) Sometimes while driving on 5th or 6th gear at about 40 mph feels like I'm towing something or the hand brake is on. I have to down shift or the car will continue to decelerate.
Could this be something wrong with my brakes, tranny or differentials?
Please advise
The only thing I've done is put bigger rims and tires a in May (stock to 17 x 9 rims and 255 /40/17 tires), I didn't any significant feel rolling resistance until now.
Example:
1) When I'm pulling into my garage or a parking space my car will come to a complete stop much quicker than before. It feels like I have my hand brake slightly pulled. I have to rev my engine to pull the car forward.
2) Sometimes while driving on 5th or 6th gear at about 40 mph feels like I'm towing something or the hand brake is on. I have to down shift or the car will continue to decelerate.
Could this be something wrong with my brakes, tranny or differentials?
Please advise
You checked your tire pressures? They could be low.
255 width tire is a lot of rubber but it wouldn't create the effects you're describing.
I would check your alignment to make sure everything is in spec.
It's possible that your ebrake is dragging and that is adjustable. Easy check here, just jack up the rear with the front wheels chocked so the car doesn't roll forward and spin the rear wheels by hand. They should spin freely. Then move your ebrake handle up one notch at a time to see when the brake shoes actually engage. Should be 5-7 clicks for full ebrake engagement.
255 width tire is a lot of rubber but it wouldn't create the effects you're describing.
I would check your alignment to make sure everything is in spec.
It's possible that your ebrake is dragging and that is adjustable. Easy check here, just jack up the rear with the front wheels chocked so the car doesn't roll forward and spin the rear wheels by hand. They should spin freely. Then move your ebrake handle up one notch at a time to see when the brake shoes actually engage. Should be 5-7 clicks for full ebrake engagement.
30psi in the rear tires seems a little low to me. I would run 33. It's a little firmer ride but the car feel more responsive. Considering you only recently noticed the issue, do you recall nailing a pothole or any other road hazards? You should get the car on a lift or jacks and inspect underneath for any visible damage. Beyond that, maybe it's time to go see a mechanic.
It appears the Rear brake caliper is getting stuck. I jacked up the car and tried to turn the wheel when it's acting up. Probably rust from the rain or car washes. I'll take it to the dealer tomorrow.
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You could have a bad rubber brake hose too. Sounds funny but this is what happens. The hose collapses inside, the rubber swells and reduces the id. You can push a couple hundreds pounds of pressure through that but it won't return near as easy. So there is pressure build up on the caliper side of that hose and the pads won't return. So jack up your wheels and rotate them. If you find one that seems to drag open the caliper bleeder and if it then spins freely get a new brake hose.
You could have a bad rubber brake hose too. Sounds funny but this is what happens. The hose collapses inside, the rubber swells and reduces the id. You can push a couple hundreds pounds of pressure through that but it won't return near as easy. So there is pressure build up on the caliper side of that hose and the pads won't return. So jack up your wheels and rotate them. If you find one that seems to drag open the caliper bleeder and if it then spins freely get a new brake hose.
Ok guys thanks for all your trouble shooting! The dealer is saying it's the TRANSFER CASE! $4200 part. The odd thing is the brake pedal gets mooshier too after the resistance starts.
My IX does that too, and I have read here that is not uncommon. Not sure if it can be tuned out or not. I would guess Mitsu factored that in since mine seems to do it more when getting on it hard. Keeps the R's up and turbo spooled up a bit more maybe?
34 psi front and 36 psi rear is great for street DD. Helps with the understeer.
My tuner recommended this set up and eversince I have been loving these tire psi specs.








