Our street setup will be organic, which uses a thermal resin based friction material. Carbon is great if you get the right stuff. Unless you get a full carbon/carbon clutch which runs carbon on carbon (no resin or metal) you are at the mercy of either the failure point of the metal or the resin. A true carbon/carbon has a higher heat tolerance. It doesn't sound like you need a $4000 clutch though.

For 300hp on the street a basic ACT street setup will work perfect. Sorry, I don't believe in bells or whistles or sizzle to sell our clutches. Just like many factory designs, a generous increase in clamp load and good materials goes a long way. If you look at factory designs for Porsche 911 for instance, the only significant difference between turbo and non-turbo clutches is the clamp load. The same is true on many other cars when comparing turbo vs. non-turbo or 4 cyl vs. 6 cyl cars.

 

Thanks Dirk for your info. This clears it all up. I still don't kow about a 2900lb pressure plate???

 

But he did burn that disk up the very next run as did a few other DSMer's that day. Sticky track.

Nothing against you guys. I agree that you make great clutches. And if it weren't for the fact that the RMR was cheaper and readily available, I would have gone with a clutch from you. Too bad my OE clutch went out on me so early.

 

No, actually he burnt one up the week before when he ran 8.9? on street tires on the same clutch he has had for a few races. Just not enough clamp load for the job. He put a new clutch in for the next week. No apologies though even when he does burn it up. He has gone way quicker than I ever thought he could with a street disc. He can always put in a race disc and it would hold fine. He is just concerned about learning to drive on it consistently without breaking parts. He has gotten spoiled with the driveability of what he has now.

 

I second this...

I have this set-up... ACT pressure plate w/ disc & flywheel from RRE. Performs awesome and is very streetable. Not a true ACT set-up? Why is that...? because it doesn't include an ACT flywheel? Stock flywheel works great with the upgraded pressure plate... sorry to inform ya but your assumption is just a bit off there bud.

 

Your to late on this one. Read above as we found this to be wrong info given and the probelm is now cleared up.

 

So for those of us who do heavy work more than every once in a while... give us the jist of doing a Evo clutch job vs. a GSX. Hell, I don't think it would be wise to post a how to since you seem to work for Mitsu... but it would really help everyone out if it were to some how show up on the board via 3rd person...

 

Good call. My mistake.

 

Hey guys, I am just catching back up with this thread and must appologize for missinforming anyone on the X-ACT flywheel topic . The point about the flywheel entered my conversation with Richard and I guess nothing was finalized at that time, things were still speculative at that point in the design phase. Dirk I sure hope that you get some of your kits in stock soon, seeing as how my clutch is officially gone as of tonight, last time I called you guys were on back order, which isn't a suprise considering the anticipation of this kit. Take care, I'll be ordering soon.

Later,
mitsuorder

 

Well....Let me say that I have changed a few DSM trannys in my day, AWD, FWD, 1g and 2g....In more then a few places...This house, that house, side of the freeway, 24hr fitness parking lot.....Mike W up there can tell you that Im a somewhat competent mechanic.

The EVO ain't easy. It is only vaguely similair, it has some major differences that make it a ****ing huge pain in the ***. I don't like them. I used to get annoyed at the rear motor mount on 2g's or 1g's with ABS....Man, I don't know when I have it good.

 

On jack stands, the GSX was a 3.5 hr out and in deal... I just hope I can knock out the Evo in an afternoon, from what I've seen thus far. I still say a comprehensive Evo clutch How-To (with detailed pics) would be the most important material ever posted on Evom... Too bad all of these people who do the job semi regularly, refuse to share the wealth.

 

I can do a 1g awd clutch in like 2 hours and I would say plan to set aside a good 10 hours for he EVO

 

Actman,

I'm will be installing my SS clutch line soon... should I remove
the clutch restrictor while I'm at it? Would you guys recommend
removing it?

Thanks,

 

If you do a little reading, you will find that he is of the same opinion as I... where do you think I formed my opinion?

 

It it were my car, I would rather control the slip by myself instead of some stupid restrictor. But I also am not afraid to assume the risk of breaking parts when my foot slides off the clutch pedal too fast at high rpm. Let me add that I am not the kind of person to go back to the dealer with the restrictor re-installed and complain how Mitusubishi needs to cover the repair. If you don't plan on driving it aggressively then leaving the restrictor or pulling it out will have no affect. The difference is when you want the clutch to engage faster than the restrictor will let you.