Oil Pressure 100+ PSI???
Oil Pressure 100+ PSI???
Hi everyone...
I installed new Gauges from 42 Draft Designs and they are very nice... Temp Probe in the oil housing above the oil filter works flawless see here:
Gauge shows perfect temps
The next Gauge is the Oil Pressure unit off the other port in the housing to the left of the Oil filter towards the engine block. This one at idle reports 30~40 PSI put if you tap the gas it goes up to 100~110, anything over 2-3 K it peds the gauge to 100.
Question 1 is: is this normal?
Question 2 is: is the pressure here Higher and that is why the gauge is being pedded?
thanks for any input...
I installed new Gauges from 42 Draft Designs and they are very nice... Temp Probe in the oil housing above the oil filter works flawless see here:
Gauge shows perfect temps
The next Gauge is the Oil Pressure unit off the other port in the housing to the left of the Oil filter towards the engine block. This one at idle reports 30~40 PSI put if you tap the gas it goes up to 100~110, anything over 2-3 K it peds the gauge to 100.
Question 1 is: is this normal?
Question 2 is: is the pressure here Higher and that is why the gauge is being pedded?
thanks for any input...
I killed an Autometer 100 psi electrical sending unit before on my DSM. I bought a 200 psi mechanical gauge after that and installed an isolator at the firewall. At the time I couldn't find any gauges with electrical sending units over 100 psi.
A couple of comments:
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
A couple of comments:
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
my friends sending unit didn't last 4 months before it went out. Mine lasted 10 months before it went out.
A couple of comments:
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
This car is no longer a DD... track only... maybe a day or 2 a month drive around...
Car will see nothing but Mid-Ohio Grattan, Watkins Glen, Gingerman, Putman Park, etc...
I also bought the AMS Oil sender unit line to get it off the engine... any one recommend a better unit i can hook up to the Gauges?
and TEMP just driving the other day to check everything out Oil was at 200... when moving on Freeway went down to 185 roughly. Have not been to track yet as wrapping up this project before any event... but the Pressure Gauge was a bit weird why I'm posting... if some one has a great solution for the Oil Pressure and can hook up to my Stewart Warner Gauge i will be more than happy to buy the item and hook it to the AMS line off the motor... (speaking of any one have any good pics of where they mounted their units? and how they mounted them?
thanks for all the Feed back.
Last edited by Knightr; Aug 8, 2009 at 01:05 PM.
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Standard value:
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more
At 3,500 r/min: 294 − 686 kPa (43 − 100 psi)
This is out of the service manual. Mine idles at about 20psi when warm and up to 105psi at full boost. Mounting option are limited.
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more
At 3,500 r/min: 294 − 686 kPa (43 − 100 psi)
This is out of the service manual. Mine idles at about 20psi when warm and up to 105psi at full boost. Mounting option are limited.
I have some of the OEM items for sale but that is for a different thread...
and A cusco Raditator cap (BLUE) for sale IGM me.
but the car was a DD and setup for track totally stock engine wise.. now it's not... 336 at the wheels Pure tuning in Toledo tuned it after tons of after market parts went on. i will be changing my profile soon.
either way it's 99% track car now... but i see the way up there.. so does any one have any pics and recommendations on oil pressure sending units that work with the Stewart Warner gauges?
Last edited by Knightr; Aug 8, 2009 at 08:46 PM.
Ok so let me ask this question:
what are the best gauges out there?
I need ones that are going to take a track beating... and with the AMS Oil relocation line i can get the oil pressure sending unit off the engine... where the unit will go and how it will be mounted, I have not figured that out yet.
Hoping some one here as already done this so i don't have to re-invent the wheel.
Thanks Ken
what are the best gauges out there?
I need ones that are going to take a track beating... and with the AMS Oil relocation line i can get the oil pressure sending unit off the engine... where the unit will go and how it will be mounted, I have not figured that out yet.
Hoping some one here as already done this so i don't have to re-invent the wheel.
Thanks Ken
A couple of comments:
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
Ted,
Do you think it is better to actually install an oil temp reducer thermostat such as the HKS one? This will open at around 167 F.
http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=3593&rsku=6536
Basically, the idea behind oil and coolant thermostats is to get those fluids up to temperature quickly, and control heat beyond that point. In the case of oil, you want a minimum temp of 85 deg C. As for HKS' 75 deg C thermostat, I'd pass. Just because some company decides to offer a part, that doesn't automatically mean it is particularly advantageous or even useful - especially for a street car. If high oil temps ever became an issue, one is better off leaving the thermostat alone and getting a larger cooler.
If one looks at the tacho of newer BMWs, he'll see that the redline slowly moves upward from the time the engine is first started until the oil reaches full temp (usually takes about 5-10 min). This is done for good reason, as the one of the worst things one can do to an engine is rev it before the oil is at full operating temp.
Dedicated road race cars eliminate thermostats because they aren't needed in situations whereby the engine is running almost flat out for extended periods (no worries of running too cool) and is subjected to frequent rebuilds anyway. Reduced long-term wear isn't as much an issue as having all cooling systems running at max capacity all the time.
If one looks at the tacho of newer BMWs, he'll see that the redline slowly moves upward from the time the engine is first started until the oil reaches full temp (usually takes about 5-10 min). This is done for good reason, as the one of the worst things one can do to an engine is rev it before the oil is at full operating temp.
Dedicated road race cars eliminate thermostats because they aren't needed in situations whereby the engine is running almost flat out for extended periods (no worries of running too cool) and is subjected to frequent rebuilds anyway. Reduced long-term wear isn't as much an issue as having all cooling systems running at max capacity all the time.
A couple of comments:
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.
(1) Installing an oil thermostat eliminator for a street car causes more harm than good. It exists for a reason. Eliminating it prevents the oil from reaching operating temperature quickly, and that directly translates into accelerated engine wear. It delivers no benefit in return. If the oil is below operating temperature, it will cause higher pressure readings. This is one case whereby what works for a dedicated road race car doesn't translate to the street.
(2) Mounting an electronic oil pressure sending unit directly to a 4G63 oil filter housing subjects it to excessive vibration, and tends to accelerate failure. I learned this from first-hand experience.