Some people may call me a noob thats fine, but I cant figure out where these bolts and washers go on the BR HTA 35r kit, also theres a pic of something in the way of my 35r outlet pipe but I have no idea what it is, PLEASE anyone help me figure this out.

Sorry if these are dumb questions, first time.

 

you need to clock the turbo. whats in the way is your starter.

 

he means you need to loosen up the bolts that hold the turbine housing in that position, they are located right behind the turbine housing on the back. just loosen those up and you can rotate the turbo or clock it is the correct term, anyway you want. did you order the turbo kit new?

 

Your turbo outlet is face to face with the electric solenoid of the starter. You need to remove that turbo and send it to a shop to custom weld a elbow that will divert the flow in a different direction. Are you sure that is a Buschur kit?, I mean, these guys(Buschur) have a lot of experience and wouldn't allow such design.

my .2c

 

As noted above, clocking the turbo is the solution, and it's not difficult, but I'd suggest clocking the compressor side, since that's the one that's pointing to the starter

 

Ok that makes a lot of sense about the rotation of the turbo, thanks! And yes it'd a brand new BR HTA 3586r kit w/ tubular headers. Thankfully it's not bolted on so I'll just pull the whole unit back out. Does anyone have an idea about the bolts? I guess I'm suppose to know what they are for? They aren't the oil lines or anything, Thos came with but not in the pic.

 

Like stated above, just loosen the bolts on the compressor side of the turbo and rotate it until the outlet clears. I had to do this on my Buschur FS635 kit. Also, the bolts above are....

Far Left, 5 bolts and 5 spacers: used on the two factory tie-bars that go beneath the downpipe, so the bars clear the downpipe.

Middle, 2 bolts: used to attach the rubber hangers to the rear mounting points on the downpipe.

Far Right, 2 bolts: used to attach the o2 housing to the downpipe.

I'm not sure what the other five washers are for. Possibly just to go in-between the bolts and the tie-bars.

 

srsly??? lol

 

THANK YOU! that clears it all up, now I have to get the BR dp to match up with my ams test pipe. the two bolt flange on the br dp is slanted so its gunna be that much harder to weld a two bolt flange on my test pipe and still lining it up with the o2 housing! did ur kit come with a exhaust manifold gasket or can I reuse the oem gasket?

 

I ordered a new oem exhaust manifold gasket when I ordered the turbo kit. You can probably re-use your old gasket if you don't have a whole lot of miles on it. But, if you have the time to wait, I'd just order a new one.

BTW - I'm almost positive the five washers go along with the five bolts and five spacers. Just to clarify, it goes...frame, spacer, tie-bar, washer and then the bolt. Hopefully that's not too confusing

 

not at all makes perfect sense! and ill see how much a new oem gasket is, i just spent 9 grand in the last two weeks getting all this stuff done. so im scrapin pennies right now. one more thing; the coolant and water lines, they wont reach the stock positions so what do i do? just put on the oem lines and buy longer tubing I persume.

 

Yeah, supposedly you can bend the stock coolant lines to work with the Buschur kits, but I didn't want to screw around with that. I found a thread that listed all the parts you need. The only downside...more money to spend.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-my-hta86.html

Post #3 has the part numbers (thank you Celica2EVO), as well as links to Summit Racing. Everything worked beautifully for me, and it looks nice as well.

EDIT: Post #5 in that thread lists less expensive solutions too.

 

Also, you can get a new oem exhaust manifold gasket from mitsubishiparts.net for $22.60 + Shipping. Part #MR323654

http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/cart/?pn=MR323654

 

Alright I'll look into that. as far as all the bolts go, what all needs to be torque other than my exhaust manifold bolts and I'm doing the arp headstuds tonight which I believe get 75 ft/lb of torque with the arp lube on the threads?

 

ask the buschur boys yourself on evo engine turbo drivetrain; the buschur forums

http://buschurforums.com/forum/forum...aysprune=&f=31