Ive looked around and cant seem to find an answer. Just about wrapped up with my 2.3 build and was wondering how do you go about priming the oil before the initial crank up?

 

Oil pump is attached to the timing belt, if its off you should be able to prime it with a drill and appropriate socket.

 

assembly lube will do its job. crank it w.o the injectors plugged, priming the turbo for like 5 seconds,and just make sure you idle is not set of 4000rpm. get an oil pressure gauge.

 

Pull the MPI relay and crank untill you build oil pressure.

 

You can also prime the motor by hooking everything up, and just start the dang thing already. Besides, if you try to turn the oil pump gear, that will prime it just fine, but by the time you put everything else back together and go to start it, all the motor you "primed" with will have ran back to the pan anyways.

Just start the dang motor...

 

I always end up priming my new motors just for piece of mind since it is the first start up you could potently find an issue without destroying the brand new motor. If everything is all good you really shouldn't have too but I always go the extra step to put a drill on the oil pump gear and spin it until I can hear the oil pushing the air out of the head/lifter area.

 

just make sure a oil pressure guage is connected

 

this is why we load up on assembly lube. start that ***** already

 

Not going to help you if your pump is cavitating. The only way to be sure is to prime the pump via a drill on assembly before putting on the timing belt, and to pull the MPI relay and prime untill you see oil pressure. Otherwise you are rolling the dice with one of the most critical engine components.

 

No need as long as you used assembly lube in the engine.

 

Assembly lube will wipe away within seconds. If all of the gallaries are not filled with oil, and there is not plenty of oil primed in the system, you will destroy bearing surfaces immediatly, or at least cause substantial wear to bearing surfaces on startup. The first minuets in a rebuilt engine's life (or when a critical component like an oil pump has been installed) are the most critical. Do it right, or pay the price after.

 

David Buschur has talked about the subject several times on here. Do a search.

 

took me all of 20 seconds to find. Search button is a wonderful thing if used correctly.


Here is some information I want to get out there.

The 4g63 is not a small block Chevy. You do NOT crank it with the fuel disconnected or the ignition unplugged to prime the oiling system. If you truly wanted to try and prime the oiling system before starting a new engine you would need to leave the timing belt off and crank the oil pump seperately. Same thing if you DID have a small block Chevy, you'd spin the oil pump through the distributor hole.

This next stuff applies to OUR ENGINES. I don't care about some other shop or some other machine shop that did YOUR work. Don't ask as I could care less.

For our engines. IF you put your head on, timed it etc. and installed the engine in your car AND you have everything exactly right, the engine should start and run almost immediately after trying to start it. When it does hold the engine at around 1500-2000 rpm and let it stay there. Check it for leaks while it is doing this, check it for anything out of the ordinary. If you are using a standalone check the AFR's, look at the knock count etc. Dial in your AFR's a little so it is where it needs to be to run at this RPM. Hopefully you have a map that is right in the first place and you can just let it run. While the car is warming up the lifters will quiet down as the oil pressure builds and the air gets out of the lifters. Check the coolant, watch the coolant temps.

DO NOT just crank the engine to attempt to build oil pressure, it WILL BUILD INSTANTLY IF THE CAR STARTS.

ALL of our engines are built/assembled with a special lube. It is very sticky. I basically fill the crank shaft with it, so there is quite a bit of lube there and everything is very well coated. The engine could probably actually run with NO oil in it for a few minutes with no damage, we don't want that obviously.

Point is to TRIPLE check every single thing on the car first and then it should start instantly and run.

Once you are sure there are no leaks of any type and everything is tight and triple checked again you can either start some low throttle tuning or go for a drive.

As long as everything is 100% I could care less about a break in. Engines built here/assembled here and installed here are broken in on the dyno about 90% of the time. I have maps perfected for any combination we have. So the car is checked, loaded on the dyno. The idle, part throttle tuning is gone over and a few miles are put on the car at light loads to make sure it runs great and the AFR's are good. I do all the fuel mileage calibrations right on the dyno too. When this is done, the car is looked over again and then the tuning at low boost levels (20 psi or whatever) is done. I generally do the pump gas tunes first so the boost levels are lowest. As soon as they are done then the car is turned up and tuned on race gas if that is part of the build.

It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete BS. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.
__________________
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

First 4g63 in the 12's, 11's, 10's, 9's, 8's and 7's.
WORLD'S FIRST EVO8 IN THE 8'S
WORLD'S FASTEST EVO8, 172.74 MPH.