More broken parts for the Bad Bish
More broken parts for the Bad Bish
Well we were ready for the track yesterday. I drove the car on Monday and just couldn't believe how great it felt. The car was really how I wanted it to feel. Nice response down low, good mid range, rediculous up top, I commented it has never felt this good since I've been running "GT35r" type turbos on the car. While driving the car I jumped on it and it broke up a bit. I thought it was odd because since I've been running these expensive NGK plugs I haven't had a misfire or problem and these plugs have been in the car since last year. I got on it again, same thing but a little worse. Each time I stood on it the car would break up more.
Tuesday morning I come in, change plugs, check things over and decide to just double check on the road that the plug change fixed the breaking up before the tires were changed for the track. Nope, not fixed. I brought the car back to the shop, loaded it on the dyno and attempted a pull. Something wasn't right, didn't sound right, was breaking up and I aborted the pull.
I decided to walk off and eat lunch. While I was eating it dawned on me that maybe it was, once again, a cam sensor. Grabbed a new one and installed it. Next pull the car was clean but still had the same odd noise and then I saw the coolant on the windshield. Shut the car down, walked off disgusted, it was too late by the time I realized what had been going on the damage was done.
Here is the culprit:
Here is what happens when one fails in a car that is being pushed already:
For me it gets worse. The head was also torched, but only slightly. Normally it can be welded and milled. This head though has been milled a few times, recently had the o-ring grooves welded shut and milled again and now is just not usable anymore. So, now I have to wait for a head for the car. I'd like to just take a customers but I will have to wait.
To explain what happens when the cam sensor fails. I've seen them fail completely, which is what I wish they would all do. The car quits running, you put a new one in and off you go. Instead when they start to go bad you get an incorrect RPM reading. You will get spikes in the RPM on the log. This is bad because if you are at peak torque and should have 10 degrees of ignition advance and 95% duty cycle and the sensor tells the car you are at 10,000 rpm where there is 20 degrees of advance and only 85% duty cycle..........well you see what happens.
It's been a tough year for sure. Luck has not been kind. I'd sure like to get this 8 second pass this year but the drive to get it is wearing off. Most of the time I am upset and can't think straight when the car is down, this time I could care less.
As soon as I can get my hands on a head it will be running again and then back to the track. Once this 8 second monkey is off my back I am looking forward to just driving it and enjoying it.
Expensive failure this time.
Tuesday morning I come in, change plugs, check things over and decide to just double check on the road that the plug change fixed the breaking up before the tires were changed for the track. Nope, not fixed. I brought the car back to the shop, loaded it on the dyno and attempted a pull. Something wasn't right, didn't sound right, was breaking up and I aborted the pull.
I decided to walk off and eat lunch. While I was eating it dawned on me that maybe it was, once again, a cam sensor. Grabbed a new one and installed it. Next pull the car was clean but still had the same odd noise and then I saw the coolant on the windshield. Shut the car down, walked off disgusted, it was too late by the time I realized what had been going on the damage was done.
Here is the culprit:
Here is what happens when one fails in a car that is being pushed already:
For me it gets worse. The head was also torched, but only slightly. Normally it can be welded and milled. This head though has been milled a few times, recently had the o-ring grooves welded shut and milled again and now is just not usable anymore. So, now I have to wait for a head for the car. I'd like to just take a customers but I will have to wait.
To explain what happens when the cam sensor fails. I've seen them fail completely, which is what I wish they would all do. The car quits running, you put a new one in and off you go. Instead when they start to go bad you get an incorrect RPM reading. You will get spikes in the RPM on the log. This is bad because if you are at peak torque and should have 10 degrees of ignition advance and 95% duty cycle and the sensor tells the car you are at 10,000 rpm where there is 20 degrees of advance and only 85% duty cycle..........well you see what happens.
It's been a tough year for sure. Luck has not been kind. I'd sure like to get this 8 second pass this year but the drive to get it is wearing off. Most of the time I am upset and can't think straight when the car is down, this time I could care less.
As soon as I can get my hands on a head it will be running again and then back to the track. Once this 8 second monkey is off my back I am looking forward to just driving it and enjoying it.
Expensive failure this time.
Wow! Sorry to hear that bro.
Well we were ready for the track yesterday. I drove the car on Monday and just couldn't believe how great it felt. The car was really how I wanted it to feel. Nice response down low, good mid range, rediculous up top, I commented it has never felt this good since I've been running "GT35r" type turbos on the car. While driving the car I jumped on it and it broke up a bit. I thought it was odd because since I've been running these expensive NGK plugs I haven't had a misfire or problem and these plugs have been in the car since last year. I got on it again, same thing but a little worse. Each time I stood on it the car would break up more.
Tuesday morning I come in, change plugs, check things over and decide to just double check on the road that the plug change fixed the breaking up before the tires were changed for the track. Nope, not fixed. I brought the car back to the shop, loaded it on the dyno and attempted a pull. Something wasn't right, didn't sound right, was breaking up and I aborted the pull.
I decided to walk off and eat lunch. While I was eating it dawned on me that maybe it was, once again, a cam sensor. Grabbed a new one and installed it. Next pull the car was clean but still had the same odd noise and then I saw the coolant on the windshield. Shut the car down, walked off disgusted, it was too late by the time I realized what had been going on the damage was done.
Here is the culprit:
Here is what happens when one fails in a car that is being pushed already:
For me it gets worse. The head was also torched, but only slightly. Normally it can be welded and milled. This head though has been milled a few times, recently had the o-ring grooves welded shut and milled again and now is just not usable anymore. So, now I have to wait for a head for the car. I'd like to just take a customers but I will have to wait.
To explain what happens when the cam sensor fails. I've seen them fail completely, which is what I wish they would all do. The car quits running, you put a new one in and off you go. Instead when they start to go bad you get an incorrect RPM reading. You will get spikes in the RPM on the log. This is bad because if you are at peak torque and should have 10 degrees of ignition advance and 95% duty cycle and the sensor tells the car you are at 10,000 rpm where there is 20 degrees of advance and only 85% duty cycle..........well you see what happens.
It's been a tough year for sure. Luck has not been kind. I'd sure like to get this 8 second pass this year but the drive to get it is wearing off. Most of the time I am upset and can't think straight when the car is down, this time I could care less.
As soon as I can get my hands on a head it will be running again and then back to the track. Once this 8 second monkey is off my back I am looking forward to just driving it and enjoying it.
Expensive failure this time.
Tuesday morning I come in, change plugs, check things over and decide to just double check on the road that the plug change fixed the breaking up before the tires were changed for the track. Nope, not fixed. I brought the car back to the shop, loaded it on the dyno and attempted a pull. Something wasn't right, didn't sound right, was breaking up and I aborted the pull.
I decided to walk off and eat lunch. While I was eating it dawned on me that maybe it was, once again, a cam sensor. Grabbed a new one and installed it. Next pull the car was clean but still had the same odd noise and then I saw the coolant on the windshield. Shut the car down, walked off disgusted, it was too late by the time I realized what had been going on the damage was done.
Here is the culprit:
Here is what happens when one fails in a car that is being pushed already:
For me it gets worse. The head was also torched, but only slightly. Normally it can be welded and milled. This head though has been milled a few times, recently had the o-ring grooves welded shut and milled again and now is just not usable anymore. So, now I have to wait for a head for the car. I'd like to just take a customers but I will have to wait.
To explain what happens when the cam sensor fails. I've seen them fail completely, which is what I wish they would all do. The car quits running, you put a new one in and off you go. Instead when they start to go bad you get an incorrect RPM reading. You will get spikes in the RPM on the log. This is bad because if you are at peak torque and should have 10 degrees of ignition advance and 95% duty cycle and the sensor tells the car you are at 10,000 rpm where there is 20 degrees of advance and only 85% duty cycle..........well you see what happens.
It's been a tough year for sure. Luck has not been kind. I'd sure like to get this 8 second pass this year but the drive to get it is wearing off. Most of the time I am upset and can't think straight when the car is down, this time I could care less.
As soon as I can get my hands on a head it will be running again and then back to the track. Once this 8 second monkey is off my back I am looking forward to just driving it and enjoying it.
Expensive failure this time.
I recently replaced my coils and plugs with a set of coils with 4000 miles on them and I still get hiccups.
Do you think maybe my sensor is going out?? Anyway to check?
OK went back to the post and will check my logs for RPM spikes.
Do you think maybe my sensor is going out?? Anyway to check?
OK went back to the post and will check my logs for RPM spikes.
Last edited by CAD EVO; Sep 3, 2009 at 11:17 AM.
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That sucks...
Dave, were you using your aluminium cam sensor shield when this failure occurred?
If so, what are you planning to do to protect the next cam sensor after you repair the damage?
Dave, were you using your aluminium cam sensor shield when this failure occurred?
If so, what are you planning to do to protect the next cam sensor after you repair the damage?
This happen to me tuning my 93/alky car on AEM. The cam angle sensor plug popped off (no metal clip). Resulted in 10,000rpm spike. alky was still flowing during fuel cut. resulting backfire was the loudest bang I ever heard working on a car. It blew the head gasket as well. dont remember it being that severe. I have not seen a metal gasket that burned yet. Sorry to hear it killed a head. That would take the wind from my sails as well.
