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2.3 stroker vs 2.0 long rod, opinions pls

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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 06:56 AM
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2.3 stroker vs 2.0 long rod, opinions pls

I am doing a stroker but just wanted some opinions on either. If any one can chime in on the pro's n cons of both.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 08:06 AM
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Strokers give you and instant 1000+ tq.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Evolved_6
I am doing a stroker but just wanted some opinions on either. If any one can chime in on the pro's n cons of both.
These are apples and oranges.

A 2.3L 4G63 with 100mm crank increases displacement and improves low speed characteristics at the expense of high rpm power potential and durability. This tradeoff works best for street and short track applications. It will also quickly expose the limitations of a factory head, which is no barn burner as it comes from Mitsu.

A long rod 2.0L is technically the best way to maximize high rpm power potential and durability with an 88mm crank. It won't be as torquey as a 2.3L on the street, nor will it spool a large turbo as quickly. Where it makes up for it is on the top side of the picture, and the less severe rod angle makes it more durable at high piston speeds, and that makes it better for drag race and long track applications.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 08:39 AM
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^^^^

thats a thorough, concise response
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 08:47 AM
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I was wanting to know the same thing, its time for a build with the new turbo.

I road race but I think Im going to stick with the 2.0 bottom end with a BR Stg. 3 head to maximize RPM's.

Torque would be nice though, I have none
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted B
These are apples and oranges.

A 2.3L 4G63 with 100mm crank increases displacement and improves low speed characteristics at the expense of high rpm power potential and durability. This tradeoff works best for street and short track applications. It will also quickly expose the limitations of a factory head, which is no barn burner as it comes from Mitsu.

A long rod 2.0L is technically the best way to maximize high rpm power potential and durability with an 88mm crank. It won't be as torquey as a 2.3L on the street, nor will it spool a large turbo as quickly. Where it makes up for it is on the top side of the picture, and the less severe rod angle makes it more durable at high piston speeds, and that makes it better for drag race and long track applications.
I was hoping for your reply Ted as always you are on point with info. I plan on doing Time Attack here which is setup like Gymkhana and a lil bit of drag and of course street duty. Thanks Ted that was exactly what I was looking for.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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So.. I'm the long run, a stroked out motor is a bigger risk and more $$? Is it worth having a built 2.0 if ur keeping the a/c? What's the max rpm with a/c?
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 09:52 AM
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If you have a turbo that runs out of breath at higher rpm than say 8000. Would it be better to have a 2.3 because the "power band" would not be in the at high rpm where the 2.0 shines.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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I have the 2.0 long rod motor with the HTA3582 and I'm only running 26lbs of boost right now, 482hp. This thing is sick, I love it. After a few hundred miles, I am going to crank the boost up to 30+. I think this would be great for time attack.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by motomarkie
So.. I'm the long run, a stroked out motor is a bigger risk and more $$? Is it worth having a built 2.0 if ur keeping the a/c? What's the max rpm with a/c?
So long as you turn the A/C off when spinning it hard, you shouldn't have to worry about thrashing the compressor.

A stroked 4G63 will be most durable if not turned faster than absolutely necessary (e.g. 7500 rpm).


Originally Posted by mt057
If you have a turbo that runs out of breath at higher rpm than say 8000. Would it be better to have a 2.3 because the "power band" would not be in the at high rpm where the 2.0 shines.
The larger displacement of the 2.3 will tend to drop the powerband of any given turbo (by a few hundred rpm) as compared to a 2.0.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 05:24 AM
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Not sure if this should go here or in the alum. rod thread. anyway. If you throw an aluminum rod in the mix with a 2.3 or 2.4 or 2.4LR wouldnt you get alot of your high rpm back?? I know a few guys doing this with good success. And one dsmer with a 2.3 alum. rod shifting between 9600 to 10,500 he is in the 9.50 range. Thanks
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo addict
If you throw an aluminum rod in the mix with a 2.3 or 2.4 or 2.4LR wouldnt you get alot of your high rpm back??
No, because it doesn't fix the piston speed problem and short rod ratio.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo addict
Not sure if this should go here or in the alum. rod thread. anyway. If you throw an aluminum rod in the mix with a 2.3 or 2.4 or 2.4LR wouldnt you get alot of your high rpm back?? I know a few guys doing this with good success. And one dsmer with a 2.3 alum. rod shifting between 9600 to 10,500 he is in the 9.50 range. Thanks
More on what Ted said, the high piston speed will really wreck things. If a DSMer was running a 2.3 at those speeds, he probably had a 2.4 block destroked with a longer rod. I personally like a 2.2 long rod setup in a 4g63 block.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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The reciprocating mass of the 2.3 goes down with the aluminum rod which while it doesnt help with the sideloading of the piston it does lessen the force at the angularity change, yes?
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 03:20 PM
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The lesser mass of the Al rod (~17% less overall than a comparable steel rod) should reduce the rotating inertia applied to the rod bearing.
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