I agree. One of my best friends has a IX like mine, almost identical in mods at that! We are both well into the 540hp range but he is still on stock IX cams. The only downside is that he has to run more boost to make the same power that I am. We make the same power but I'm on 30psi and he does it on 35psi. That's the cams that help make that power, however he is a great example that the IX cams will make great powerPlus he is just a god at fabrications

Mikey

 

How much preload are you guys with FP Red running on your actuator? Ill be running the 18psi actuator

 

Jeremiah, are you planning on running pump or meth? 30-32psi or less let the wastegate seat then turn 1.5 turnbunkle in. If you plan on running more than 32psi then crank it down I would let it seat then turn 2.5-3 turns. I had to cut 2 treads on my wastegate arm to be able to preload it correctly (the turn buckle will only turn so far till it stops, Robert left some extra threads for people like me to cut off to get more preload!). I have 3 wastegates and the arms on all of them are different length. You need to test fit first before you start to cut some of the threads off.

Just watch your boost gauge when you take it for a test drive and make sure you are not overboosting or having boost creeping, unless you want that. Call me if you have questions. I hope the 02 housing is working out for you too

PS. Don't worry about that nutt below the turnbuckle. If it gets in the way of the turnbuckle tightening down then take it off. You don't need it.

Mikey

 

Ill be running pump gas for now...

Ill probably set it to the standard of 3 turns, Im sure if I have any issues english racing will iron them out when I get my tune.

Thanks again for the o2 housing, Ill be putting everything in next thursday/friday

 

3 turns doesn't always seat the flapper properly so you need to make sure your preload is good before going to English. Aaron probably won't have the time to preload your wastegate... It take a hour for your car to cool down enough for him to do that and then time to do it! Just make sure it is preloaded correctly because if it's not it will leak boost and you won't spool till 5k. I know a lot of people that learned the hard way and you don't want to make a pointless trip bud.

Mikey

 

I just put down 460hp/380tq at 25psi on 100octane for my road course tune...

 

Good job Matt

 

How much spring pressure depends on what your peakboost level will be set at. If you will be running 25 PSI peak, then set it at 22-23 PSI spring pressure. The FP 18 PSI unit shouldn't need the actuator rod chopped if your Red is configured the original factory IX comp housing and 10.5 turbine housing. However, if it is the surge ported FP housing then...I couldn't say as I haven't messed with it yet. If you have the The FP 18# unit, it does not like to be set at 19-20 where it is known to exhibit a characteristic spike sometimes.

 

I beg to differ! If I didn't shorten my actuator arm on my 18psi gate then my flapper wouldn't even seat! Trust me, I learned the hard way. I have an external dump and I could hear the flapper open under normal driving because the arm was not putting enough preload on the flapper to seal it. I then took the wastegate off and cut off two threads from the actuator arm and now it's doing great. I had a 25psi gate too and had to do the same with that. Maybe I just got a bad batch but I doubt it!

Every wastegate from FP is a bit different, from what I have seen, not saying they all are! I have seen 6 FP wastegates and only two of them where the same (shaw I saw fit the same). You can get ones with a bracket bent more than another, the holes on the bracket are not the same distance from the top or the bottom of the bracket as others (changing the distance the arm has to travel) some had a shorter arm then another, one had a turn buckle that was not tapped deep enough, etc... I have seen it all. Take my word when I tell someone that they can be different and he needs to test fit it first to make sure it has proper preload on the flapper, otherwise you will give him problems!

Just like external wastegates have to be played with to get the perfect spring pressure, so do the internal wastegates. We just have to use the dang arm and it will take a time or two to get it perfect. And it should be perfect! The wastegate are adjustable for a reason and Robert has about 5 extra threads for a reason too...

The anti-surge compressor cover shouldn't make a difference unless the holes are not in the exact same spot as the 64mm cover. The ones that I have see there are no fitment issues. Once again the arms are adjustable for a reason.

Mikey

 

Sure, you can differ. It's O.K.! Granted, wastegate tuning is specific to each particular setup and combo. I won't argue with you. Neither one of us should extrapolate or generalize then, I guess. Still personally I like to preload the spring to about 2# before peakboost pressure to maximize turbo spoolup. How about yourself?

 

How many PSI was the flapper valve cracking at, on the example given above? How many turns did you have on it originally when you first noticed the early lifting, or was this at base WG pressure?

 

So for running 30psi you want your wastegate pressure on 28psi? Are you pressure checking that? Also are you using a MBC or EBC.

 

Mikey, did you first run the Red with the 18 PSI FP actuator before going to the 25 PSI actuator? If so, how much spring pressure did you run with the Red equipped with the FP 18# actuator, and what was the peak boost pressure on that particular combo?

 

I had the turnbuckle turned in as far as it was go and the flapper was just seated, so I thought, but I was wrong. It was not enough to seal. I could hear it leaking boost anything over 5psi. I also spooled 1k rpms later due to loosing boost preasuure.

It was literly on base but still not enough preload to hold the flapper shut under normal driving. Like you could put the turn buckle on the flapper with a baby tug on the arm! It alsmost fit on without having to pull the arm... The could wiggle the arm just a bit with the turnbuckle turned all the way down hitting the nutt. That's when I knew I was going to have to cut some off but I wanted to test drive first. That's when I took it off and cut two treads off and add more preload so the the flapper was actually seated! I'm around 26psi of preload I believe for spike of 30psi.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience, dude! I can relate to your info. In a way this is related to your post in another thread where we crossed words about the turbine wheel on the Red and the Black turbos.

The flapper valve lifting off it's seat early even when heavily preloaded indicates increased turbine inlet pressures. For the FP Red, Robert went and stuffed a relatively large turbine wheel into a housing that was originally designed and cast for a much smaller diameter wheel, so this configuration is bound to exhibit increased seat pressure requiring additional WG preload to spool properly.