Ahh, crap
Ahh, crap
I used to be one of those guys that said "ahh it cant be as bad as that" and i took all the negative posts with a grain of salt,
well hell, i still do, i knew the clutch needed to be replaced at some point
and apparently 3125.8 miles is that point
the clutch is starting to slip
wonder if i can make it through the winter with out replacing it..
clutches dont NORMALY cost 1300 dollars right? its only because hte car is so new? if i wait a bit they will go down ect?
Anyways, just a heads up, i only launched the car a few times, but i drove it agressively, and i did smell the clutch a few times too...
any sujestions for a clutch that is close to the stock feel, but definatly more robust?
(btw, no mods other than a ground kit and a radar detector :P)
edit: oops, ment to put this under drive train..
well hell, i still do, i knew the clutch needed to be replaced at some point
and apparently 3125.8 miles is that point
the clutch is starting to slip
wonder if i can make it through the winter with out replacing it..clutches dont NORMALY cost 1300 dollars right? its only because hte car is so new? if i wait a bit they will go down ect?
Anyways, just a heads up, i only launched the car a few times, but i drove it agressively, and i did smell the clutch a few times too...
any sujestions for a clutch that is close to the stock feel, but definatly more robust?
(btw, no mods other than a ground kit and a radar detector :P)
edit: oops, ment to put this under drive train..
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damn man, Hope I dont jinx myself by posting. Yea, I'm at 5K and no problem. I launched it several times in the past. Drive pretty aggressively, especially around the corners. Smelled my clutch like a bunch of times. No matter how well I launched, still smelled it. The only thing I didnt do so far is go to the race track. But so far, the clutch is still good. The cheap as paint is still annoying the **** out of me tho. I was cleaning out my garage for my brother's 350Z, and accidentally bump the the stock exhaust pipe against the rear end of my EVO. ****, got a little chip there. THat pissed me off so bad. Several chips here and there, but so far, she is in good condition. By the way, the EVO is my first standard car. So I stalled at least 10 times when I first got it. Guess I'm lucky or something, but my clutch is still in good condition, for now that is.
my buddy now works as a service writer for mitsubishi in md, and he just told me tonight that they have clutch complaints with the evo all the time. mitsubishi screwed up bigtime on this one.
if you're looking for a stock feel and want an upgraded power capacity then I would go with the ACT or the ClutchMasters setups. Any twin-disc setup is overkill if you have no mods, they dont drive like stock, and anyone that says they do is just plain dilussional. As far as the radar detector mod-im not sure if they make a clutch that can handle the power from that
what i plan on doing as soon as hte snow melts
HKS 264/274 cams
new intake + BOV
some sort of boost controll (dunno which yet)
full 3" exhaust with cat delete
alch/water injection
maybe pullys
and maybe a reflash
not sure what else i can do that's "bolt on" but for the winter i wanted to stay stock for warentee stuff (to bad the clutch wont be covered)
SOOO, with that in mind, maybe i should get a heavy clutch? but i DONT want to spend 1300+ , thats insane!
do i NEED a new fly wheel?
HKS 264/274 cams
new intake + BOV
some sort of boost controll (dunno which yet)
full 3" exhaust with cat delete
alch/water injection
maybe pullys
and maybe a reflash
not sure what else i can do that's "bolt on" but for the winter i wanted to stay stock for warentee stuff (to bad the clutch wont be covered)
SOOO, with that in mind, maybe i should get a heavy clutch? but i DONT want to spend 1300+ , thats insane!
do i NEED a new fly wheel?
If youre can get the work done cheap or are gonna do it yourself you can get just a clutch disk in the interim
http://www.rmrproducts.com/home.htm
But if your gonna have to pay full price for the work you might as well have it done just the once and get the whole clutch kit..
http://www.rmrproducts.com/home.htm
But if your gonna have to pay full price for the work you might as well have it done just the once and get the whole clutch kit..
after mine started slipping I had 400 miles until it wan non drivable. mine started at 2,800 shot at 3,200. You can make the winter if it sits in your garage. godd luck
Someone on here had the rmr 6 puck for like a month or so and it was destroyed. you may want somthing more strong
Someone on here had the rmr 6 puck for like a month or so and it was destroyed. you may want somthing more strong
eehh... these kinds of stories make me not want an evo sometimes. If I can drive the **** out of a pos ford ranger (put 73,000 miles on it), running it up to redline and repeatedly dropping the clutch several times in a row on multiple nights as well as sliding around corners and flying tailwide around all the gravel roads in my county since I had nothing else to do I would think an EVO would last for longer than 2-3k miles. I went through 4 sets of tires with that truck in that 73,000 miles and your telling me the clutch of a "performance car" can't last for atleast 50k miles? That's just bullfuc*ing sh*t. And it isn't covered under warranty is it? Dam* that just makes me not want an EVO.
mike
mike
Evo has a 2100 pound clutch, and this is quit strong, yet not strong enough for an Evo wit s its AWD< it is the weak link to protect the drivtrain, in my AWD DSM community, a 2600 was minimum, or get a twin plate, much more friction surface area and stock pressure for daily drivability.
The stock clutch has ALOT of play in it too, so it burns up quit quickly.
The stock clutch has ALOT of play in it too, so it burns up quit quickly.


