This Sunday I installed my kelford cams and I attempted to install my ARP headstuds. I installed one ARP stud fine, but I ran into a problem with the second stud I was installing. I couldn't get the stock head stud out, I loosened it, but the washer would not clear the valve spring. I was trying to be delicate about the whole process so I wasn't forcefully trying to pry the thing out.

Anyone run into this problem? Should I just forcefully pull up on it? It looks like I would scar the valve spring seat if I were to yank on it?

I'm a bit worried now because I removed two STOCK headstuds and I'm afraid I have ruined the seal between the cylinder head and block.

I torqued it to 15lbs then to 80lbs when I put the stock hardware back in.

The service manual calls for 15lbs and then 90 degrees and then another 90 degrees. I tried to do that, but I felt like I was going to snap the stud at around 80lbs. It was very tight....

 

So you took two stock bolts out at once?

 

If you have two bolts out at once you could be in some trouble. This is why most recommend you pull the head and do it like that, right the first time. If you attempted the 1x1 method, than you should take one out, torque it to specs, then go to the next and proceed. If you have two out at once you could very well have ruined the head gasket seal. To be safe you should pull the head and do it that way.

 

You should be able to wiggle it out. You might need to give it a little persuasion though. I remember when I did mine I had to give one of them a good yank to get it out.

You do not follow the factory service manual for torquing ARP's! The factory bolts are torque to yield bolts I believe. ARP's are NOT installed the same way!

 

Oh sorry, I forgot to add.. I was doing the 1x1 method..

So, I took one out..put the ARP stud in..torqued it down to spec..

proceeded to take #2 out, couldn't take it out because of valve spring. Fiddled with it for a while, said **** it. Put the #2 STOCK stud back in, torqued it down to 15lbs then 80lbs.

Took ARP stud out, put stock stud back in. Torqued to 15lbs then to 80lbs..

 

The stock bolts are torque-to-yield which means they're designed to stretch and are for single use only. Basically, once they're loosened they become worthless. The best head gasket seal you'll ever get is the one from the factory and my guess is you've now ruined that. At this point you really need to just pull the head and replace the gasket and then install your ARP's.

 

Yes, when I installed the ARP stud. I used the ARP moly lube + 65lbs of torque like it said..

 

I've driven the car like 2 miles since I did it under no boost and very lightly.

You still think I should remove the head and replace head gasket?

 

I would for sure. As previously posted you should never reuse factory TTY bolts once removed.

Never was a fan of the 1X1. I just pulled the head when I did my studs, cams, springs, and retainers. Was actually a lot less of a PITA working with the head on a bench

 

oh my head!

 

Its your choice, but if you don't its very likely you'll begin pushing coolant and blow the gasket out during a WOT full-boost pull. If that happens you'll need to pray none of the coolant gets into an oiling passage since that'll wreck your bottom-end bearings very quickly.