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Insight needed for FP Red

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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 07:44 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
Like Ryu stated, clutches are rated at ft. lbs not hp. A Red with 550hp will hold the power on the street just fine. The problem will be when you go to the track and start launching. The twinhd will slip from excessive heat. There is no need for you to argue the fact because you are wrong! 35psi on the Red is still only going to be around 450-470tq depending on the setup. When you start pushing a Red past 35psi it starts to make a lot more tq and a lot less hp due to the Red operating outside the efficiency rating and compressor map. Just keep that in mind. That is how Ryu has such a strong tq curve because he was pushing 40+psi.

*edit. Ryu were you having problems slipping on the road or just on the track?

Mikey
Just at the track but I suspect it was not holding all of the torque on the dyno as well.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 08:05 PM
  #32  
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^ it was prob holding for the most part on the dyno. They don't tend to break loose on tip-in as much as a launch. Thanks for your input.

Mikey
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
Like Ryu stated, clutches are rated at ft. lbs not hp. A Red with 550hp will hold the power on the street just fine. The problem will be when you go to the track and start launching. The twinhd will slip from excessive heat. There is no need for you to argue the fact because you are wrong! 35psi on the Red is still only going to be around 450-470tq depending on the setup. When you start pushing a Red past 35psi it starts to make a lot more tq and a lot less hp due to the Red operating outside the efficiency rating and compressor map. Just keep that in mind. That is how Ryu has such a strong tq curve because he was pushing 40+psi.

*edit. Ryu were you having problems slipping on the road or just on the track?

Mikey
well aware of what they are rated and how they hold. And unless you do back to back to back runs.. and cant drive.. you wont have a problem.

At least I dont.. guess I am just that damn good.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 05:39 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
well aware of what they are rated and how they hold. And unless you do back to back to back runs.. and cant drive.. you wont have a problem.

At least I dont.. guess I am just that damn good.
It is far more likely that you are not exceeding the torque limits of the clutch then being "just that damn good". My Exedy twin held up great at the track up to 500wtq on TTP's dyno. I went to the track with 536whp 500wtq and ran a 10.36@132.93mph I then replaced the old used Exedy with a new twin. We then made 547wtq on TTP's dyno. The new clutch then slipped immediately upon my first launch at the track. The clutch would hold up fine to just rolling around into it on the street but the combination of a hard launch along with higher gear torque is too much for an Exedy Twin.

I do suppose the ET/Trap speeds in my signature do indicate I can't drive though

Video of my Exedy Twin still slipping in the upper gears at the track after I turned the boost down.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/E...ock_649655.htm
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 07:19 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mitsuevo803
I'm in the same boat (sorta) as you. I'd say go with the AMS fmic or the ETS 4". i dont think you really need the radiator or the sparktech system. go with GSC or FP cams and at least minimum 1000cc injectors. you don't REALLY need the fuel rail, mellon tuning said he didn't replace his until 600whp (if i remember correctly) but they're like $250 so may as well. for meth kit, i'd go aquamist HFS-1 (when i was considering meth, that seemed like the best one to get at the time), i think thats the most expensive one, but i like i said i hear it's the best. TTP sells one also. good luck with the car man, bring the car to EFI logics or get ivey tuned since you're in new york

see poll
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...p-red-bbk.html
I ran the stock fuel rail, twin walbro, stock regulator and PTE 1000cc with q16 up to 700awhp before it leaned out. I went to e85 and 1650cc injectors and a fuel rail to get back to 700awhp with 90% IDC and a little room for more power.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
^ the OP needs to get a Garrett core! I will be upgrading to the 4.5" ETS Garrett core here shortly. The absolute best FMIC on the market. PERIOD!

Mikey
Damn, going with the bigger core already? You plan on road racing anytime soon? It is winter in the NW, remember?
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 07:15 PM
  #37  
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Read the sig and click on the link.....then ask away
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:58 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Mellon Tuning
I ran the stock fuel rail, twin walbro, stock regulator and PTE 1000cc with q16 up to 700awhp before it leaned out. I went to e85 and 1650cc injectors and a fuel rail to get back to 700awhp with 90% IDC and a little room for more power.
ahh see i was wrong and DIDNT remember correctly lol. thanks Chris

see? you don't need a fuel rail, save your money or buy a fancy sounding BOV
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:19 PM
  #39  
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Twins seem to slip on the track after a launch. Mine held on the street and dyno just fine well after it was done at the track.

If you have the budget there is no reason to not build the block. Just because it seems that the stock block with a good tune will last forever doesnt mean it doesnt fail unexpectedly. My guideline for max torque vs breakage is just that a guideline not a rule. Things can happen even with a good tune at conservative levels.

O-Town, since you track I would pin the failure on oil starvation due to high Gs uncovering the pickup as has been observed on cars with the Black. I would drop the pan and check your 1 & 4 rod bearings if you dont mind the extra labor as they might show signs of starvation as well.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley

O-Town, since you track I would pin the failure on oil starvation due to high Gs uncovering the pickup as has been observed on cars with the Black. I would drop the pan and check your 1 & 4 rod bearings if you dont mind the extra labor as they might show signs of starvation as well.
Forced Performance will have to take a look over it to determine the exact cause.

I actually liked the turbo...! Which is why I bought it...

Last edited by o-townFLA; Apr 17, 2010 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:53 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by o-townFLA
well if it matters on not....

My FP Red seized yesterday...

I had it no more than 4 months and I was using the new oil feed line that connects to the oil filter housing...


good luck on your build, it sounds like a nasty one...!
Matt! Sorry to hear about that man... Your car has been in some serious build, it's unfortunate this happened to you... Hit me up sometime I have some stories to tell ya!
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by o-townFLA
come to find out that a turbine blade broke off and is stuck/wedged in the housing, possibly causing the seizure or whatever else came first...

so to conclude the failure may have not came from oil starvation. Forced Performance will have to take a look over it to determine the exact cause. Most likely pointing to a failed part and not due oiling to the turbo. Which is a good thing, I actually liked the turbo...! Which is why I bought it...
Sucky, but definitely better than the scenario I offered.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:27 PM
  #43  
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From: FLA-HI-SoCal
Originally Posted by JohnBradley
Sucky, but definitely better than the scenario I offered.
Thanks John. Believe me I was fully aware of the oil pick up problems due to sustained g's in right hand turns...

It just sucks that their aren't to many Evo 8/9 Reds used in a circuit/road course setting...
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #44  
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well i figure ill offer my insight ive always been the type to not exactly overdue my setup, but to improve all aspects of my setup, however i havent dragged or road coursed my setup due to unforseen problems that keep coming up,(motor givin up#3 cyl, on#3 act clutch with only 23k since i bought the car, popping a brake line, needing front struts etc...) now dont think i beat up on the car, sure i drive it the way its meant to be driven, now im runnin 26psi spike on a red for a dd i havent ran into any oil starvation issues (knock on wood) still running stock line, and running royal purple 15w40 oil. Now those other parts do u need them? not necessarily, will it help? definitely, in most cases aftermarket parts are far superior to oem parts everyone knows that, it all depends how deep is ur wallet and how fast u wanna go? oh btw im waitin on my sparktech non cdi cop setup to come in... needed? not necessarily have 8.5mm upgraded spark plug wires, new ignition coil boots and one step colder denso plugs, will it help my setup? more then likely due to stronger spark = better combustion therefore more power.... sorry gettin offtrack, OP buy whatever parts u feel will help u get to the power level u want...isnt that what its about guys??? anyone feel free to object if u feel im not right.
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 12:29 AM
  #45  
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just to contra with everyone has got to say about the cams...why does everyone think so low abt the HKS 272's??? and yet this is the most sold cams around the world and almost everyone has them?

Are they good enough for the stock turbo only? or not even that?
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