how do i bleed my clutch?
Nov 19, 2010, 02:38 PM
#31
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amazing info, I will be doing this shortly. Had a clutch installed 8,000 miles ago and it feel the same as it did with a stock clutch, I have a feeling the half assed bled it.
Nov 20, 2010, 06:07 AM
#32
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You have 2 and 3 in the wrong order......
Yeah, something like that. Air is lighter than both water and clutch fluid, so it will float "up" inside the clutch lines until it reaches the highest point. So when you open the bleeder valve, which is at a LOWER point, the air stays where it is, while clutch fluid is squirted out of the bleeder valve. I am also confused by your statement that liquid is continuously pumped through. Here is my understanding of the bleeding process:
1. connect bleeder valve to a small container of clean clutch fluid with a rubber hose.
2. have friend pump clutch pedal 10x, then hold it down.
3. open the bleeder valve and let fluid dribble out through the hose.
4. close the bleader valve
Repeat steps 2-4 until no more bubbles show up in the clean container.
The steps above are what I got from reading this forum, but I don't get how there is "continuous" pumping of fluid. Seems to me like there is a pause between step4 and step2, allowing the air bubbles to float upward.
1. connect bleeder valve to a small container of clean clutch fluid with a rubber hose.
2. have friend pump clutch pedal 10x, then hold it down.
3. open the bleeder valve and let fluid dribble out through the hose.
4. close the bleader valve
Repeat steps 2-4 until no more bubbles show up in the clean container.
The steps above are what I got from reading this forum, but I don't get how there is "continuous" pumping of fluid. Seems to me like there is a pause between step4 and step2, allowing the air bubbles to float upward.
Nov 20, 2010, 07:01 AM
#33
Evolving Member
well, I can't say with authority what the order is, but I can tell you that the order I put down is what I got from a how-to thread in this forum. In that thread, the guy said you have to pump the pedal until you feel pedal pressure, and you won't ever get that if you pump with the bleeder open. Besides that, if you just open the bleeder before you pump the pedal, you won't need a friend to do the pumping. You can pump it yourself!
Nov 21, 2010, 07:47 AM
#36
Evolving Member
Nov 21, 2010, 07:52 AM
#37
This is how I did mine, and my clutch disengages perfectly. The demonstration is being done on a 2g, so it works the same. This way you will get the most travel out of your slave cylinder rod.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw
Last edited by lillev23; Nov 21, 2010 at 08:28 AM.
Nov 22, 2010, 06:39 AM
#38
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Fanbelted - steps 5,6 and 7 are where the clutch is being bled. It is basically finished then. However this is a generic brake and clutch bleeding routine. Just believe me, I have been racing and fixing cars for 40 years. However, as I stated earlier, on the EVO clutch all you need to do is open the bleed for a few miniutes while topping up the master cylinder. Then close it. It works. This is not rocket science, it is just getting bubbles out of hydraulics. If the clutch works then it is bled. If it doesn't it isn't.
Nov 22, 2010, 08:54 AM
#39
as far as the bleeding.... I have my valve closed, then I (have a friend) pump the clutch maybe 5 or 6 times untill it builds a little pressure, then open the valve on the slave cylinder remove all air out of the lines. Repeat this step maybe 4 or 5 times, or until all air is removed out of lines.
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