Ryu's hunting for 9's on the Stock Block
Whose t4 twinscroll kit are you using? I want to do a V-Band 6262 eventually if I sell my T3 standard flanged kit. I would like to see you spool on the stock block.What RPM do you acheive 25psi and 30psi on the stock block? I am going to eventually put a 6262 on my stock rod/piston motor. I am removing the BS and adding rod bolts and cams along with the headstuds I already have to help withstand the higher rpm I plan on spinning with the 62. I am also using stock valve train but with HKS 272 cams. I think T3 is the way to go for sure from the get go.
I would definately recommend a t4 twinscroll. The t3 is small and there are few upgrades for it. A t4 ts can be started on a small a/r and then upped to as large as a 1.32 or 1.44 ts t4 housing. I just wouldnt spend the $ doing a twinscroll kit to end up having to swap it all out. Maybe ETS can make a dual pattern manifold so you could go t4 on the same manifold to save some money of you want a change in the future. Swapping housings on a t4 is cheap and easy. I would go for a t4 kit because even single scroll can be had as small as a .58 and up to however big you want. I just want the v-band because I know it will make more power than I ever want and if I decide to ever buck up and buy 2 turbos I could have a smallish one for street and have a 5minute turbo swap for a drag turbo.
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If you're trying to set a record drag racing on the stock engine... I would recommend the largest turbo that reasonably fits. For example a 3586.
You want to keep the engine's IAT as low as possible to resist knock. Running very large duration camshafts will help alleviate some cylinder pressure and keep the heating of the combustion mixture during the compression stroke to a minimum. Furthermore by running a turbocharger well within its efficiency range (instead of on the TSL like you did with the Red) You're IAT's will be very low and your intercooler won't have to work as hard. This all results in a happy engine.
Your biggest issue last year was shifting the transmission. Get a TRE rebuild transmission with all the bells and whistles with a Quartermaster Twin or Tilton twin. Your car will have never shifted better.
Hopefully you'll do some of your own thinking on this build and not get sucked into running SPEC clutches or something else dumb.
You want to keep the engine's IAT as low as possible to resist knock. Running very large duration camshafts will help alleviate some cylinder pressure and keep the heating of the combustion mixture during the compression stroke to a minimum. Furthermore by running a turbocharger well within its efficiency range (instead of on the TSL like you did with the Red) You're IAT's will be very low and your intercooler won't have to work as hard. This all results in a happy engine.
Your biggest issue last year was shifting the transmission. Get a TRE rebuild transmission with all the bells and whistles with a Quartermaster Twin or Tilton twin. Your car will have never shifted better.
Hopefully you'll do some of your own thinking on this build and not get sucked into running SPEC clutches or something else dumb.
If you're trying to set a record drag racing on the stock engine... I would recommend the largest turbo that reasonably fits. For example a 3586.
As stated in post #430, the title of this thread is "Ryu hunting for 9's on stock block" not "Ryu hunting for the stock block world record". This is a street car first and a drag racing car second. I have stated numerous times that spool is a major concern for me in any build that I put together for my car. I do not plan on going with anything as big as a 3586 or bigger as I shouldn't even need to, to attain my goals. I was able to run consistent 10.3's on a Red to this day is still the quickest FP Red time out of all the street car members on this forum. It's a no brainer that I will be able to go much faster on a larger frame hta3582.
You want to keep the engine's IAT as low as possible to resist knock. Running very large duration camshafts will help alleviate some cylinder pressure and keep the heating of the combustion mixture during the compression stroke to a minimum. Furthermore by running a turbocharger well within its efficiency range (instead of on the TSL like you did with the Red) You're IAT's will be very low and your intercooler won't have to work as hard. This all results in a happy engine.
Thank you very much for that brief lesson. Incase you didn't realize, that was sarcasm. I'm well educated in forced induction cars and the idea's of running more efficient larger laggier turbo's to put less stress on the motor, but the fact of the matter is I'm not everyone else and I do not choose to do what everyone else is doing. I very much enjoy trying to get my cake and eat it too with trying to get quicker spooling turbo's to match the aveage larger turbo times. It's worked out pretty well for me so far with a 10.8 on the stocker which is 30r territory and a 10.3 on a red which is 35r territory.
Your biggest issue last year was shifting the transmission. Get a TRE rebuild transmission with all the bells and whistles with a Quartermaster Twin or Tilton twin. Your car will have never shifted better.
Now this really has me laughing.
My transmission has been assembled by one of the best Mitsubishi transmission builders in the country. 94AWDcoupe has been building Mitsubishi transmissions for over 30years. If you think that I have a problem shifting my transmission feel free to click this link of one of my track passes last year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGFTFbj17-8
Also your recommendations of me switching to a Quartermaster Twin or Tilton Twin are obviously very poor. The video I posted was with an Exedy Triple. From what I have seen on local Evo's, the Quartermaster shifts like garbage and the Tilton Twin is WAY to harsh of a clutch for the street. I think I'll stick with my Exedy Triple that allows me to complete my shifts in 0.15 tenths of a second while retaining excellent streetability.
Hopefully you'll do some of your own thinking on this build and not get sucked into running SPEC clutches or something else dumb.
I have gotten my car where it is through 95% of my own thinking. I saw a credible member on here recommend the Spec clutch. This sparked my interest to contact them myself and drill them on why I should buy their clutch. They made outlandish guarantee's that their clutch would allow me to shift as quickly as I could with zero lockout or they would give me a full refund. With that guarantee why not give it a shot. Well needless to say when it came time for them to put up or shut up on that guarantee they left me high and dry.
As stated in post #430, the title of this thread is "Ryu hunting for 9's on stock block" not "Ryu hunting for the stock block world record". This is a street car first and a drag racing car second. I have stated numerous times that spool is a major concern for me in any build that I put together for my car. I do not plan on going with anything as big as a 3586 or bigger as I shouldn't even need to, to attain my goals. I was able to run consistent 10.3's on a Red to this day is still the quickest FP Red time out of all the street car members on this forum. It's a no brainer that I will be able to go much faster on a larger frame hta3582.
You want to keep the engine's IAT as low as possible to resist knock. Running very large duration camshafts will help alleviate some cylinder pressure and keep the heating of the combustion mixture during the compression stroke to a minimum. Furthermore by running a turbocharger well within its efficiency range (instead of on the TSL like you did with the Red) You're IAT's will be very low and your intercooler won't have to work as hard. This all results in a happy engine.
Thank you very much for that brief lesson. Incase you didn't realize, that was sarcasm. I'm well educated in forced induction cars and the idea's of running more efficient larger laggier turbo's to put less stress on the motor, but the fact of the matter is I'm not everyone else and I do not choose to do what everyone else is doing. I very much enjoy trying to get my cake and eat it too with trying to get quicker spooling turbo's to match the aveage larger turbo times. It's worked out pretty well for me so far with a 10.8 on the stocker which is 30r territory and a 10.3 on a red which is 35r territory.
Your biggest issue last year was shifting the transmission. Get a TRE rebuild transmission with all the bells and whistles with a Quartermaster Twin or Tilton twin. Your car will have never shifted better.
Now this really has me laughing.
My transmission has been assembled by one of the best Mitsubishi transmission builders in the country. 94AWDcoupe has been building Mitsubishi transmissions for over 30years. If you think that I have a problem shifting my transmission feel free to click this link of one of my track passes last year. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGFTFbj17-8
Also your recommendations of me switching to a Quartermaster Twin or Tilton Twin are obviously very poor. The video I posted was with an Exedy Triple. From what I have seen on local Evo's, the Quartermaster shifts like garbage and the Tilton Twin is WAY to harsh of a clutch for the street. I think I'll stick with my Exedy Triple that allows me to complete my shifts in 0.15 tenths of a second while retaining excellent streetability.
Hopefully you'll do some of your own thinking on this build and not get sucked into running SPEC clutches or something else dumb.
I have gotten my car where it is through 95% of my own thinking. I saw a credible member on here recommend the Spec clutch. This sparked my interest to contact them myself and drill them on why I should buy their clutch. They made outlandish guarantee's that their clutch would allow me to shift as quickly as I could with zero lockout or they would give me a full refund. With that guarantee why not give it a shot. Well needless to say when it came time for them to put up or shut up on that guarantee they left me high and dry.
Honestly Ernie, please just do us both a favor and just stop posting in my thread. You are obviously trying to be condescending while attempting to disguise it as your trying to bestow your broad wealth of knowledge to me. I strongly suggest that you stop. I'd hate to see Account Disabled under your name....
In Eric's defence, he was actually trying to help you out on that last post and not be condescending, he was seriously giving you advice with no undertones. Take it as you will, I understand it is hard for you as you and Eric have been bickering back and forth for over a year now, he can be a bit harsh at times, however this is his personality...
In Eric's defence, he was actually trying to help you out on that last post and not be condescending, he was seriously giving you advice with no undertones. Take it as you will, I understand it is hard for you as you and Eric have been bickering back and forth for over a year now, he can be a bit harsh at times, however this is his personality...
I have no objections to a technical discussion with educated criticism and input, but I have no interest in a one sided conversation with a condescending know it all.
Last edited by RyuEvoIX; Aug 30, 2010 at 07:43 AM.