I'm 100% fed up with my car !!!!!!
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From: South Beach, FL / Miami, FL / Pt. St. Lucie, FL / NYC
Not only is it the battery but I'm not sure if we all forgot even the OP. The "CCA" or cold crank amps are too low especially when most of the east coast has been freezing. The OP lives in florida I know for a fact it has been down in the 30's the last few days in Miami. Your battery is the issue and is also probably no good anymore either. I still have my OEM battery from Nov 04 and my car starts up fine every morning at 5am -10 degrees. Mini batteries don't like the cold.
Yes. It has been cold the last few weeks down here. I just put a new Oddsey Battery in my car and it has been doing the same thing. Mini batteries don't like the cold weather.
I agree mini batteries are more suited for garaged cars. Before buying a battery, logically eliminate it from the equation by jumpstarting it. Then as said move onto starter, alternator, etc etc
check the positive cable to ur stater...i was driving down the highway and heard something hit the undercarriage of the car so i pulled over and looked....nothing? on my way stopped to get fuel and turned the car off....pumped gas and sat down....no start!? just heard a clicking sound everytime i turned the key. the nut came off the cable and the starter was getting no power. hooked the wire up and a nut..walllaaa
Easy enough to install, just run one huge wire from where your normal positive terminal is to the trunk. On the drivers side in the trunk there is a panel you remove with a bolt hole in a perfect location, just sand it down and wala. You will need to drill two holes to hold the battery in place, not too bad. If you are wondering where to run the wire, I just ran it through the firewall where the ecu wires comes out and along the passenger side under the plastic pieces that line the bottom of the doors, under the back seat and into the trunk.
Last edited by fre; Jan 12, 2010 at 07:28 AM.
i had the problem with my red top on my prelude, it was 100% charged but wouldnt start took it to autozone and i had basically no cold cranking amps, prolly due to a dead cell. bought a new one problem solved
I recently had the same symptoms on my car. It's been real cold down here in Florida. A week ago, I just randomly went to go start my car - It has never ever had an issue starting before.... I put the key in, the dash lights just flickered when I turned the key. I had to get a co-worker to jump start my car so I could leave work.
After pondering what it could be, after a new fresh battery, all the issues went away and the car starts now without a hitch every time.
After pondering what it could be, after a new fresh battery, all the issues went away and the car starts now without a hitch every time.
I tried to jump start my car and It won't start, I still hear clicking sound even though I have the jumper box conected to it. I can even here the huming soud just straight up clicking. I think has to be the starter because if the battery was bad it should start up when jump starting it.
Last edited by Dragking2189; Jan 12, 2010 at 09:53 AM.
Ok, I've seen a lot good ideas but at the same time a lot of misinformation. Firstly, you cannot accurately diagnose any portion of the charging system without have a known good battery, it doesn't work. Secondly, if you are hearing rapid clicking, you do not have enough voltage to spin the starter motor(that clicking is the starter moving the gear in and out). Thirdly, jump boxes are nice but if it isn't 100% charged chances are it's not gonna start the vehicle either. Also, the ability of a jump box to start a car, in my experience, also has a lot to do with the size of the jump box as well. Smaller jump boxes don't fair as well as the larger ones, the smaller ones tend to crap out after 1 or 2 attempts before needing a recharge. My first recommendation for you is to go and buy a battery, preferably a full-size battery, before you start wasting time and money trying to diagnose the issue.
For those that recommend testing the alternator and starter before replacing the battery, here's a bit of a heads up: If the battery in a car is dead, it can and will lock the alternator's field coil and stator b/c it will start trying to pull all the power from the alternator before you even start trying to spin the motor over with starter.
Go to Advance/Autozone/Carquest/Napa and get yourself a battery. If you can get it running and there is a Sears local to you, take it in and have them do a charging system check($15 or so). The machine they use is one of the best on the market in terms of charging/starting system diagnosis.
For those that recommend testing the alternator and starter before replacing the battery, here's a bit of a heads up: If the battery in a car is dead, it can and will lock the alternator's field coil and stator b/c it will start trying to pull all the power from the alternator before you even start trying to spin the motor over with starter.
Go to Advance/Autozone/Carquest/Napa and get yourself a battery. If you can get it running and there is a Sears local to you, take it in and have them do a charging system check($15 or so). The machine they use is one of the best on the market in terms of charging/starting system diagnosis.
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From: at the 5-10 no limit tables
i can only imagine in -0 up north, JEEZ!


