Notices
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain Everything from engine management to the best clutch and flywheel.

Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #16  
CBRD's Avatar
Account Disabled
iTrader: (60)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,363
Likes: 8
From: york, pa 17402
nice to see it coming together dave

cb
Reply
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #17  
red03evo's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax
good luck with the rebuild
Reply
Old Apr 12, 2010 | 11:53 PM
  #18  
20gmr's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 874
Likes: 1
From: hershey pa/williamsport
Well another update. Got a fidanza adjustable cam gear and degree'd up the exhuast cam. It was 11 crank degrees off, or 5.5 cam degrees. I installed the ATI Hub for the damper. Also installed a Kiggly racing HLA regulator. Oh I also tried some of the copper spray a gasket on the head flange of the manifold, IDK its different haha, I was thinking the copper might hold up to the heat and if nothing else it will delay the rust? For some odd reason my ETS manifold has a mild steel head flange.
Attached Thumbnails Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE-dscn2169.jpg   Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE-dscn2167.jpg   Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE-dscn2177.jpg   Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE-dscn2176.jpg   Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE-dscn2170.jpg  

Reply
Old Apr 12, 2010 | 11:58 PM
  #19  
20gmr's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 874
Likes: 1
From: hershey pa/williamsport
some pics of the carnage still in the oil pan and the kiggly regulator
Attached Thumbnails Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE-dscn2172.jpg   Rebuilding the 20gmr MACHINE-dscn2171.jpg  
Reply
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #20  
20gmr's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 874
Likes: 1
From: hershey pa/williamsport
Well guys It has been a long time since I last updated. The car is running great, and finally has enough break in miles and oils changes for me to feel comfortable abusing it haha.

When I 1st got it together I noticed a few minor oil leaks, one from the oil return line, one from the sending unit of my oil pressure gauge, and one from a crack in the valve cover. I tried numerous types of thread sealants and couldn't get the sending unit to stop leaking, i finally just removed it and installed the factory plug. i think the thread pitch was off on the 42draft designs adapter I was using.

I am gonna spend some time on the car today, I need to fix a few boost leaks and change alky nozzles for the tune, also need to give the wastegate some attention as it seams stuck closed from sitting for so long. Wellllppp thats all for now!

I need someone with a quality camera to get some good photos for me.
Reply
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 07:23 AM
  #21  
Pizzamangtr's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (20)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
From: harrisburg, pa.
It's definately running top noch now! Get it tuned! Nice work!
Reply
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #22  
mrfred's Avatar
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
Likes: 132
From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Still running strong?
Reply
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #23  
My03evo's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 696
Likes: 0
From: Toms River
I found your problem, it has a FRAM oil filter AKA orange filter of death (not kidding)

Not trying to be a smartass but if you do research they have caused tons of issues (personal experience of my friends truck too) they use like a cardboard end gap glued to the end of the filtering media and a stamped piece of steel to ACT as a spring. Plus more stuff I forget, but thats enough for me to never use them, It's horrible cheap engineering though. On my friends truck we were leaving the mall one time and it started clunking and clattering and we look down and had NO oil pressure. Had plenty of oil and figured out it was from the fram oil filter, changed the filter and had oil pressure since.

Also the egg shape wear in the front cover can also be from having the timing belt too tight, the egg shape wear points towards the 10 o'clock area (top rear of engine) right? I've seen SO many people not know how to adjust the timing belt tension Correctly. After you set it and lock down the tensioner and spin the motor over a few times (also to verify the timing is still lined up) then you wait at least 15 minutes(to give time for the hydraulic tensioner to adjust) and you should still be able to put the grenade pin in the tensioner hole. If not then it's too tight or too loose. If too tight it will cause the exact problem you had, there was a thread on here somewhere that it happened too and he had pictures of everything including the eggshaped front housing.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Titish
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
10
Sep 16, 2015 11:19 AM
David Buschur
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
458
Aug 20, 2015 06:41 AM
13-0
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
154
Aug 16, 2015 12:57 AM
Sansone
Other Cars - For Sale - Wanting To Buy (WTB) Or Trade (WTT)
6
Oct 15, 2012 07:07 AM
wtf_is_a_evo
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
6
Sep 14, 2011 05:55 AM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:43 AM.