Rear Diff Options - Power Oversteer Found Here
Diagueen LSD no modifier. Just what Shep recommended.
I'm not sure if the Shep is the same lock up as the TRE, but it's enough lock up that it works great.
Just thought I emphasis something that goes along with R/T Ernie post. You can try to tune an EVO like a FWD by taking away traction from the back and getting a ton upfront. All this does though is make the car want to snap oversteer anytime you get off the throttle or trail brake which makes the car hard to drive.
This diff is like the complete opposite. It let's you slide the back around under power, the FWD tuning will never do that. But it also provides better rotation on trail braking, but it is MUCH more predictable and less "snappy" then the FWD tuning method.
Just to complete the specs, I run 10k/12k coil overs on the stock swaybars. I also have an RS front diff. It is the perfect balance IMO. I'd say rear diff #1 mod and front diff a close second. The rear diff lets you get the back end pointing where you want it, and the front diff lets you hit the apex hard under full throttle, it just goes where ever you point it.
I got the front diff/T-case upgrade and rear diff done at the same time. It was just slightly over $1000 from Shep for both combined.
I'm not sure if the Shep is the same lock up as the TRE, but it's enough lock up that it works great.
Just thought I emphasis something that goes along with R/T Ernie post. You can try to tune an EVO like a FWD by taking away traction from the back and getting a ton upfront. All this does though is make the car want to snap oversteer anytime you get off the throttle or trail brake which makes the car hard to drive.
This diff is like the complete opposite. It let's you slide the back around under power, the FWD tuning will never do that. But it also provides better rotation on trail braking, but it is MUCH more predictable and less "snappy" then the FWD tuning method.
Just to complete the specs, I run 10k/12k coil overs on the stock swaybars. I also have an RS front diff. It is the perfect balance IMO. I'd say rear diff #1 mod and front diff a close second. The rear diff lets you get the back end pointing where you want it, and the front diff lets you hit the apex hard under full throttle, it just goes where ever you point it.
I got the front diff/T-case upgrade and rear diff done at the same time. It was just slightly over $1000 from Shep for both combined.
Arent the 05+ front diffs 1 way, clutch style? Anybody running a 2 way on the front?
My TRE diff has been really quiet after it got broken in. The only noise I get is a slight clanking when I turn into an incline. I use redline 80w140. but gonna be switching to amsoil 75w140 and try that out.
My TRE diff has been really quiet after it got broken in. The only noise I get is a slight clanking when I turn into an incline. I use redline 80w140. but gonna be switching to amsoil 75w140 and try that out.
Arent the 05+ front diffs 1 way, clutch style? Anybody running a 2 way on the front?
My TRE diff has been really quiet after it got broken in. The only noise I get is a slight clanking when I turn into an incline. I use redline 80w140. but gonna be switching to amsoil 75w140 and try that out.
My TRE diff has been really quiet after it got broken in. The only noise I get is a slight clanking when I turn into an incline. I use redline 80w140. but gonna be switching to amsoil 75w140 and try that out.
I might actually try that redline NS and see how different it really is from the other 80w140 I have been using.
Jon recommended redline 75w140 for my setup, which was autox with some dd. It was broken in with that fluid and flushed out and replaced at ~200 miles. Im really ocd so I flushed it out after another 400 miles. I am not sure what cusco recommends for theirs but 140 should be fine. If you live in really cold weather maybe something thinner for those months is better, idk.
I might actually try that redline NS and see how different it really is from the other 80w140 I have been using.
I might actually try that redline NS and see how different it really is from the other 80w140 I have been using.
thanks - i drive similarly, except i havent been autocrossing because I haven't had tires. I did autocross once with the cusco with 90w oil and really crappy tires, so hopefully I haven't damaged the diff any. I think I'll go ahead and switch to 140w the next time I change.. I read somewhere else just today that 140w was what they ran for the cusco.. there's also a 110 weight though which I was leaning towards - any input there? I'm in IL so it gets pretty cold, but I typically don't drive it in the winter as it's not my dd.
Im in Northern Cali, it doesnt get as cold as IL. I think 140w in your winters would still be ok, but I would look at something thinner anyways. Im originally from the midwest so I know how cold it can get. I think one or two autox with 90w wont hurt it at all. If Cusco recommends 140w and say you did two or three HPDEs in the dead of summer, then maybe I would have some worry. Just change it out when you can to what Cusco recommends. If there are no abnormal shavings in the drain plug or weird noises in your diff, you should be alright.
Amsoil SVG 75-140 with just a teaspoon of Amsoil Slip Lock added is what I use and what I recommend for the rear diff for track use. Killer stuff and not a single metal shaving to date. I used to run the 75-90, but with my increasing abuse on the rear and after blowing one up, the 75-140 gives me some added insurance and performs beautifully.
Amsoil SVG 75-140 with just a teaspoon of Amsoil Slip Lock added is what I use and what I recommend for the rear diff for track use. Killer stuff and not a single metal shaving to date. I used to run the 75-90, but with my increasing abuse on the rear and after blowing one up, the 75-140 gives me some added insurance and performs beautifully.
didnt you say your making about 350hp? With Cusco recommending 140 and your higher hp numbers I would stick with 140.
i think i'll just take the middle road and go with 110. the guy i was pm'ing also mentioned the issue of the fluid not getting hot enough to operate properly for something like autocross.. track is a different story, but autocross and dd he thought it would actually be better to stay at 140.. if a definitive authority could come in and suggest something that would be great..
Last edited by kyoo; Aug 9, 2010 at 08:23 PM.
A fully modded stock one with all plates in use. I'm making about 530hp and 430tq and do quite a bit of drag racing. The Amsoil SVG 75W-140 works beautifully.
ah - which were you running when you blew it? the stocker with 75w90? any comments on the diff in corners or is it mainly beefed up for drag racing?