Rear Diff Options - Power Oversteer Found Here
looks like i found the right thread, with respect to the op, everyone is going for after market diffs for the evos, what bout dropping in a j-spec or euro spec ayc rear diff and cross member?
pretty much have the car running the j spec evo 8 super ayc setup. is that possible for our cars considering needed mods to the rear end of business.
i looked up evo history and see that evo 4s and up came with ayc then acd came into the fold at evo 7. so the ayc was an older and more reliable setup for many years before acd came into play.
what im trying to do is get a used evo 7 helical lsd, and put in a super ayc from an older evo 7-6. what do you think as a setup?
pretty much have the car running the j spec evo 8 super ayc setup. is that possible for our cars considering needed mods to the rear end of business.
i looked up evo history and see that evo 4s and up came with ayc then acd came into the fold at evo 7. so the ayc was an older and more reliable setup for many years before acd came into play.
what im trying to do is get a used evo 7 helical lsd, and put in a super ayc from an older evo 7-6. what do you think as a setup?
Last edited by adnmoh1; Aug 17, 2010 at 09:56 PM.
looks like i found the right thread, with respect to the op, everyone is going for after market diffs for the evos, what bout dropping in a j-spec or euro spec ayc rear diff and cross member?
pretty much have the car running the j spec evo 8 super ayc setup. is that possible for our cars considering needed mods to the rear end of business.
i looked up evo history and see that evo 4s and up came with ayc then acd came into the fold at evo 7. so the ayc was an older and more reliable setup for many years before acd came into play.
what im trying to do is get a used evo 7 helical lsd, and put in a super ayc from an older evo 7-6. what do you think as a setup?
pretty much have the car running the j spec evo 8 super ayc setup. is that possible for our cars considering needed mods to the rear end of business.
i looked up evo history and see that evo 4s and up came with ayc then acd came into the fold at evo 7. so the ayc was an older and more reliable setup for many years before acd came into play.
what im trying to do is get a used evo 7 helical lsd, and put in a super ayc from an older evo 7-6. what do you think as a setup?
this video explains what i want to do to my car check it from 6 minute mark and the car i want to setup as similar to is the puma lancer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YJ-9GE0Re0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YJ-9GE0Re0
this video explains what i want to do to my car check it from 6 minute mark and the car i want to setup as similar to is the puma lancer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YJ-9GE0Re0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YJ-9GE0Re0
Half a degree of camber is huge. Rare people understand that suspension geometry is measured in tenths and hundreds just because the amount of impact minimal changes can have...
Have you tried a touch of toe out in the rear say 1/32 total toe out? I d be interested in hearing about that. I would not recommend that for high speed trackwork though.
I agree with the statement 1.5 neg camber is too much in the rear. Mines is set at -1 with zero toe now. And I backed off the 25mm progress adjustable bar to full soft. Car just works better IMHO
I agree with the statement 1.5 neg camber is too much in the rear. Mines is set at -1 with zero toe now. And I backed off the 25mm progress adjustable bar to full soft. Car just works better IMHO
right, i was just kind of surprised since i've been running close to that and i haven't had any issues with my set up - especially since our diffs let us apex/power oversteer so much better now
I had the car dialed in practice, but decided I wanted to make a change. I thought I was putting right back where it was...when I called the alignment shop to check what it was before we made changes... it was at .7 degrees of camber.
Yeah it screwed up corner entrance, steady state cornering, AND corner exit.
I had the car dialed in practice, but decided I wanted to make a change. I thought I was putting right back where it was...when I called the alignment shop to check what it was before we made changes... it was at .7 degrees of camber.
I had the car dialed in practice, but decided I wanted to make a change. I thought I was putting right back where it was...when I called the alignment shop to check what it was before we made changes... it was at .7 degrees of camber.

You have two adjustments to adjust camber and toe...and like most adjustments they are not independent, but linked together.
-1.4 is too much camber in the rear from my experience.
I ran toe out in the back...its a handfull on the freeway especially with ruts. It doesn't really help the car turn IMO...it just makes it wander and be unstable. Less camber is more predictable IMO.
-1.4 is too much camber in the rear from my experience.
I ran toe out in the back...its a handfull on the freeway especially with ruts. It doesn't really help the car turn IMO...it just makes it wander and be unstable. Less camber is more predictable IMO.

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other news::
My shep diff arrived yesterday and I installed it this morning. I filled it with OEM diaqueen. As I pulled out of my driveway for a test drive, noise consisted of:
*CLUNK*
*Clunk*
*...clunk*
>>SILENCE<<
I can't hear anything coming from back there in tight figure eight turns. I still have the OE bushings and brackets. My test drive only lasted 5 minutes. I had to park the car or I was going to get myself arrested! It's too easy and too much fun to drive the car sideways down neighborhood roads. It's _insanely_ easy to handle.
caveat: I have zzyzx coilovers with beefy springrates (>15k).
I'll post a real review after this weekends divisional solo event.
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