i believe lumpy is not running those rates and even on restacked diff only he is seeing power oversteer. I'm mixing topics q little but I'm switching to oem fsb for tight turn rotation purposes, the car already will full on drift on braking in corner
entry for most corners if i ask it to, but bedding a little help in tight turns. I'm not looking for sideways power oversteer, but hoping the front diff too will aid in minimal power understeer

 

Dont mix power oversteer with setting up the car for steady state balance. Use the Springs to set up steady state. Use everything else to handle the parts in between. If you add anything into the talk of steady state need to think beyond springs. Thats whats getting you the maximum grip and maximizing what each end can do. At that point, balance is just a balance of fine tweaks and it doesnt take much.

Shocks, camber, toe, what are your diffs doing, rear swaybar (because it matter more on exit than steady state with a tire in the air). Let those handle the transitional areas.

 

basically my plan is going from tanabe to oem fsb and 1-way diff to help with the tighter turns that require a little more steering angle. everywhere else, i can't complain wrt how the car behaves. the shocks will also be rebuilt but shouldn't impact balance

 

Would running staggered wheel/tire setups with much wider tires of up front help then?

 

Depends on your school of thought, some have been successful with this. I dont like that approach for 2 reasons. First, you can no longer rotate tires. I rotate between every event. Second, if you stagger, you need to change the approach to keep all 4 wheels on the ground. That sounds great but mixed suspension types front/rear on the Evo just dont play nicely that way. You're giving up the benefit of being able to over load the rear to take up more of the total weight transfer. At the end of the day, you want as much rubber as you can get up front (of course) and going smaller in the rear is moving in the wrong direction.

The only scenario I would do this is if you refused to cut rear fenders but wanted more front grip. Then I could see running a 315 front and the diameter matching 275 rear. Still going to have to mangle the front fenders but those are easy enough to replace if you want to revert.

So cliffs, it only works if you can do more up front than rear but you're better off going bigger square.

 

All I know is that my car feels really stable in 100mph sweepers and goes where I want it everywhere else. I can't imagine wanting it to do anything more. If I need the car to rotate, a brief, slight throttle lift brings it right around. I guess that's slower.
Maybe I'm just used to it. I dunno. No complaints yet, though.

 

considering swapping out the osg for a cusco 1-way in the rear. who's on the cusco now? i'd like to set it up less aggressively than my 1.5, but more aggressively than the osg i've got.

 

Guys , who is able to help me with rear diff upgrade?

What way is better? TRE or RS diff with cusco 1.5 way?

 

I have been very happy with my TRE diff for about two years now. Maybe a bit noisy for someone daily driving, but otherwise works great.

 

Who can provide me with this upgrade?
is at the same as RS diff or it is AYC ?

 

TRE is who you want to contact. We don't have AYC in the US, so I assume it's the same as RS.

 

I have always wanted to learn to adjust the acd parameters, who can teach me how to use it?

 

Theres a long thread in the ECU section but its not so simple to edit. The P table is particularly unknown of its full effect.

 

Have you tried tweaking? Can you give it to me to try? thanks

 

Mine is totally 1-off and unavailable for others to use per the creator. But there are some decent places to start within the ACD Tuning threads.

Heres one of the biggest threads

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...uflash-43.html