If you happen to be a min weight already in a class, I would leave the OEM mustache bar in place. Its a great location for ballast.

 

i just wanted to update real quick here for people who may be weighing options: the OSG is just not the right diff for our cars. It's the closest thing to open you can get, and I am getting wheel spin in situations I've never had it before. Their answer to that is that I need to change my suspension to keep both wheels down at all times - something any stock to mildly built evo owner knows is nearly impossible/not optimal.

 

Interesting. I was told the exact same thing by the guys at Weir. I had the exact same problem as you.
I guess people build parts without taking into considering how our cars actually work.

 

i think this is true. they slap something together that works for rwd cars and if it doesnt work for our cars, well the suspension is bad.

to their credit, they responded to me (on sunday, less than a couple hours after my email to them discussing the issue) to offer some solutions to get it to the right spec. that said, it is still annoying that i have to pull it off, uninstall, and send to them (and pay for shipping and labor - not parts, cuz they will take back whichever is swapped out).

 

They have to do the adjustments? Ouch...

 

Why not go the cheaper route that know works, TRE Max lock.

 

Remember that time when you had a perfectly good functioning Cusco? Do you still have it? If so you should buy it back from yourself and put it back in

 

marshall bought it. no stock diff. i'm trying to work with and tune what i got y'all

 

Just ordered a tre max lock. Anything else I should replace/upgrade while I have it apart back there? Kinda random but Jon seemed to have a negative opinion of my 12k/14k spring combo setup when I was asking his advice on how to improve high speed sweeper turn in.

 

nice! are you on street tires or rcomps? when you pull the rear diff, you will pull the axleback and at least lower the rear sway bar, those are the only 2 things that really come to mind

 

The only thing I can think of that is already off would be the bushings on the sides of the diff. I don't remember having to touch the rear sway bar, as kyoo mentioned, but I may be forgetting that step. I've done it about five times and should remember. I guess I'm getting old

 

Running RE71's.

Not too old to ride around the paddock on a scooter :P

 

Too old to be walking everywhere Razr FTW hahah. I try to work smarter, not harder LOL.

As for the diff, I undo the three rear bolts, then the two sides. I then lower the pumpkin on a jack a bit then pop the axles loose. Being careful not to damage a seal (if I forgot to order new ones), I pull the axles out as I lower the diff.
Now that I think about it, I think you do have to unbolt the RSB endlinks and spin the bar around. Otherwise the axles can't drop enough to come out.
Then, I pop the cover, swap diffs, then reverse.
It's suuuuuuper quick and easy. I don't even use the lift because then I can lay down under the car and just be plain lazy

 

What did he have to say? Just curious. I run soft springs but often think about moving up, so always interested in what others have to say about rates. My setup was suggested by an expert in the field, at the time, but maybe the info is a it outdated now that I'm not running the same wheel/tire I was back then.

 

yea that's exactly what I do. I'm not very careful about the seals, but I suppose that's why Jon had to replace them this last time. I don't touch the cover, I just drop it and let TRE handle.