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Filling an 4G63 block

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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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Filling an 4G63 block

Pretty simple question, Filling the water passages on a 4G block, is this a drag only thing?? Since i can imagine filling the water passages with "grout" would create allot of extra heat, i can assume this would not be good for a DD. But i thought i would pose the question just in case people have done it....

On that note, with a solid tune and all things being equal, what is a safe horsepower limit of the 4G block it's self? although that's a generic question just looking for a ball park.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:34 PM
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Drag only type of mod where you start the car, run down the track, and turn it off.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 07:37 PM
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Filled block is best for drag only cars.. I have made 1001whp on wet block.. sleeves didnt crack..

Mike
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Teal2nnr
Pretty simple question, Filling the water passages on a 4G block, is this a drag only thing??
It is, and in no way, shape, or form should you even consider it for your engine.

The 4G63 block is structurally sound, and needs no such reinforcement. IF we were dealing with an engine that suffered from low end shift and a tendency to crack main caps and/or the block while under high torque loads, one could concrete the lower 1/3 of the block and still probably not encounter cooling problems. But this is academic, because this motor has no such tendencies. And if you have a chance to turn a 4G63 block upside down, you'll certainly notice the nice cast mains girdle that Mitsubishi engineered into it.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 07:03 AM
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I was told by the shop who is tunning my car , that they do not want to push my car for this fact. They said i could destroy the engine in no time by pushing it on a daily basis. Then i was givin est dyno numbers and i was not happy.. Why can one company claime to run this block, same turbo and put down their numbers but put my car on the dyno and I am no where near theirs? Then tell me well ,run this , run what we run and you can be here.. But even though my car may have more then the companies car you wont be running better then ours? Thats why if you dont know how to tune your own cars, some companies have you by the gahonies..

Last edited by yellowevo82; Jan 31, 2010 at 07:06 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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Dave Buschur recently had a post here where he was talking about using his car with a filled block as a DD. I suggest you go look at that.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by yellowevo82
I was told by the shop who is tunning my car , that they do not want to push my car for this fact.
If the shop is telling you that they don't want to push your engine because your engine has the factory rods, pistons, etc., then I can understand them being conservative. But as for any fear that you are going to distort the mains at your power level (whatever it is), and that requires you to concrete the block, that is 100% incorrect.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 07:28 AM
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Buschur had the BadBish's block filled for a while about a year ago. Said he had no issues with it and was also running an electric water pump. As for your power level, whatever it might be, there are differences in one dyno to the next. If I made 400 hp on a local dyno and then goto Buschur and make 375, it is because of two different dynos. If you are really unhappy with your tune and your "tuner" is telling you need a filled block, it sounds like smoke is being blown up your *** to me. Buschur did away with the filled block because he knew he could go without it. Just as the statement said above 1000+ hp on non filled block. Do you really think you need it, or a better tune? This is all irrelevant if you do not have a built motor given you did not list your mods or power level.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 08:43 AM
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i have a brand new fully built motor..


Originally Posted by Ted B
If the shop is telling you that they don't want to push your engine because your engine has the factory rods, pistons, etc., then I can understand them being conservative. But as for any fear that you are going to distort the mains at your power level (whatever it is), and that requires you to concrete the block, that is 100% incorrect.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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Very well, if you're producing less than one thousand horsepower, then this is a non-issue.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 09:03 AM
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I agree, i have someone that i know who's running a 37r on a buschur motor for 50k miles and the motor is still holding strong. I dont get why the "tuner"" told me he could not push my car to its potential.. I understand he is scared of the block blowing but hey ya pay to play right?
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted B
It is, and in no way, shape, or form should you even consider it for your engine.

The 4G63 block is structurally sound, and needs no such reinforcement. IF we were dealing with an engine that suffered from low end shift and a tendency to crack main caps and/or the block while under high torque loads, one could concrete the lower 1/3 of the block and still probably not encounter cooling problems. But this is academic, because this motor has no such tendencies. And if you have a chance to turn a 4G63 block upside down, you'll certainly notice the nice cast mains girdle that Mitsubishi engineered into it.
i was thinking in the same lines.

4G63 iron solid block many many have proved to make crazy power crazy numbers without filling up any passages,,, alluminum open deck sleved i would think this would benefit
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 10:30 AM
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I have seen close to 900whp on a non filled (wet ) block. The engine has had no issues for 2 years.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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I had thought it was a race only mod, but i wanted to check with people that know more about it then I.

Thanks for the constructive responses.
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