Buschur Racing engine tear down video!!
When it no longer does what its supposed to do. There was absolutely nothing wrong with my engine. Still had good compression, still ran like the day I had it built, etc. I just wanted to change the setup a little and have it refreshed to ease my mind. It's a lot cheaper to be proactive than reactive.
slorice,
As can be seen by your rods, steel rods wear very well, even with high HP, high RPM and a decent amount of miles. I do think though for your new goal, aluminum would be best. After the initial tear down in the video I didn't take the pistons off the rods. I believe Ted pulled them apart today and they were to be checked.
As can be seen by your rods, steel rods wear very well, even with high HP, high RPM and a decent amount of miles. I do think though for your new goal, aluminum would be best. After the initial tear down in the video I didn't take the pistons off the rods. I believe Ted pulled them apart today and they were to be checked.
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When it no longer does what its supposed to do. There was absolutely nothing wrong with my engine. Still had good compression, still ran like the day I had it built, etc. I just wanted to change the setup a little and have it refreshed to ease my mind. It's a lot cheaper to be proactive than reactive.
For example, would looser piston to wall clearance than stock (all built motors) reduce the longevity of a motor? Would making more power and spinning to higher rpm reduce the longevity of a motor? Would stroking a motor and increasing the rod stroke ratio reduce the longevity?
I'm just wondering if there is a general rule of thumb when a built motor needs to be refreshed.
(They are NOT Groden rods, nor have any connection to Groden rods.)Here's their web page for info: http://www.grpconrods.com/
haha, I like the question about the tee shirts for the 2010 DSM/EVO Shootout! My answer is, "That depends on who pisses me off this year!" hahahaha
Tim, yes we did run 8's in the black car on a Crower rod and the same piston that just came out of your car, actually the pistons were an even older design. So yes it's possible. We did start to see more and more bearing wear though and finally swapped to aluminum which fixed it.
There is NO reason one of these engines can't go 100,000+ miles after being built like this one was. Now going 100,000+ miles and it running 9's that entire time might be a different story. My brothers car has 40,000+ on it now and was just a set of drop ins on a worn engine at the time. We've got engines out there still running strong we built 10+ years ago, depends on how hard they are pushed, BOOST and RPM, both tough on engines. Maybe I should say CYLINDER PRESSURE instead of boost.
I hope an aluminum rod is a good idea for a street car Tim, it's what I am running in my engine!
Tim, yes we did run 8's in the black car on a Crower rod and the same piston that just came out of your car, actually the pistons were an even older design. So yes it's possible. We did start to see more and more bearing wear though and finally swapped to aluminum which fixed it.
There is NO reason one of these engines can't go 100,000+ miles after being built like this one was. Now going 100,000+ miles and it running 9's that entire time might be a different story. My brothers car has 40,000+ on it now and was just a set of drop ins on a worn engine at the time. We've got engines out there still running strong we built 10+ years ago, depends on how hard they are pushed, BOOST and RPM, both tough on engines. Maybe I should say CYLINDER PRESSURE instead of boost.
I hope an aluminum rod is a good idea for a street car Tim, it's what I am running in my engine!
